Michelin restaurant critics urged to take ‘stronger stance’ on sustainability

Restaurant critics at Michelin are being urged to consider the sustainability of seafood used in restaurants when handing out prestigious star gradings to restaurants.

Campaigners at the charity Open Seas claimed that a lack of transparency around the organisation’s Green Star awards – introduced in 2020 – could bring a risk of “greenwashing”.

The Green Stars seek to recognise restaurants and chefs for their efforts to “combine culinary excellence with outstanding eco-friendly commitments”.

Michelin says there is “no specific formula” for awarding such an honour, adding that “inspectors are simply looking for those at the top of their game when it comes to their sustainable practices”.

Open Seas is urging bosses at the awards scheme to strengthen the sustainability criteria for the Green Stars to make them more science-based and verifiable.

It also wants the methods for catching seafood to always be mentioned in Michelin’s restaurant reviews.

Open Seas raised the issue ahead of a ceremony on Monday at Glasgow’s Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum, where new Michelin Stars, Green Stars and other awards will be announced.

The campaigners claimed promotional materials for the event did not always mention catch methods used for seafood such as scallops.

While hand-diving for scallops minimises damage to the marine environment, dredging involves dragging metal rakes across the sea bed, potentially causing damage.

Julianne Caillouette Noble, managing director of the Sustainable Restaurant Association, said using sustainable seafood – such as hand-dived scallops – is a “tangible and positive change” restaurants can make.

She said: “For the hospitality industry to make real strides towards a more resilient and sustainable future, we need transparent certifications that reward action over intention.

“Taking care to source sustainable seafood – like hand-dived scallops – and sharing this provenance with customers is a tangible and positive change that restaurants can make.”

Andrea Ladas, sustainable seafood officer at Open Seas, said Michelin could help encourage the hospitality sector to take up more “truly sustainable practices” if they were recognised in the awards.

Ms Ladas said: “Imagine if food leaders like Michelin included seafood catch methods when evaluating the sustainability of restaurant menus. It would help transform consumer awareness and move the hospitality sector towards adopting truly sustainable practices.

“By taking a stronger stance on sustainable seafood sourcing, Michelin has the opportunity to drive meaningful change across the food sector, supporting the responsible fishing practices that protect our seas for future generations.”

Thirty-one restaurants across the UK, including Le Manoir aux Quat Saisons, are listed as holding a Michelin Green Star.

Michelin has been contacted for comment.