Ottolenghi-backed project to turn derelict mill into restaurant nears completion

A project backed by world-famous chef Yotam Ottolenghi to transform a derelict 18th century mill into a destination restaurant is nearing completion.

The acclaimed author and restaurateur is one of the main investors and consultants in the ambitious renovation of the old watermill on the outskirts of Belfast.

The restoration of the almost 300-year-old building is the brainchild of Ottolenghi’s former executive chef, Carlos Capparelli.

Capparelli’s wife, Lucie, is from Belfast and the couple and their two children moved from London to Northern Ireland during the coronavirus pandemic, with the dream of opening their own restaurant.

Guided by heritage experts, the project has involved specialist stonemasons working to painstakingly preserve the original character of the building in Dundonald as it is converted into a deli, cafe and restaurant.

Engineers have also been engaged to get the Old Mill’s waterwheel turning again.

Ottolenghi recently visited the site to assess progress 18 months into the project.

The Old Mill is set to open to customers in summer 2025 – a move that is anticipated to create a significant number of hospitality jobs in the Dundonald and greater east Belfast area.

Ottolenghi told the PA news agency: “Carlos has been working for me for many years and then, when he and Lucie, his wife, moved back to Northern Ireland, where Lucie is from, he got involved in all sorts of projects, and then he was telling me about this idea with the mill and the restaurant and cafe – and we started talking, and I loved the idea, and that’s how it all started.”

He went on: “I spend a lot of time in Northern Ireland, so I know this area really well, and I think this project would be an incredible contribution and addition to what’s on offer here in terms of food. So I’m super-excited.

“But I also know how devoted and talented Carlos is, so I think those things together – this area and what it needs, and his skills – are going to create an incredible thing for this part of the world.

“I saw this place when it was disused and unloved, and I realised that this could be an incredible place to do things. I mean, that mill and the history are something that you can see and feel immediately, and I think it’s got tonnes of potential to become something really, really special.”

Capparelli, who owns an eponymous artisan pasta brand, was born in Brazil to parents of Italian heritage. He hopes to bring that mix of cultures, along with a Middle Eastern twist, to the food offered in the restored mill.

“When we moved to Belfast we were looking for a venue and we found the Old Mill,” he said.

“The first time we came to this place we fell in love with it – it’s a beautiful venue with a lot of historical background.”

The 42-year-old said there have been quite a few surprises in the project to date, including discovering an absence of proper foundations under the building.

That required the contractors – local Co Down firm Gareth Roddy Building Ltd – to undertake a major scheme to reinforce and underpin the mill’s walls.

“It has been quite a challenge, but we are working hard to overcome those challenges and bring this building back to life,” said Capparelli.

“There’s a lot of care, and we’re working alongside the council to preserve the history of the building and keep as much as possible, and also bring it back to what it used to be like.

“The old house used to be white, so we’ve painted it white. We’re bringing that back to life, and I think we’re doing a great job.”

He added: “It’s a big building, it’s a big project and we will be employing a substantial amount of people in hospitality – back of house, front of house and in the farm shop.

“I think we’re in a good place right now, and we are hoping to open by the early summer.”

Other investors in the project include the owner of Old Mill site, BH Estates, and Belfast-born hospitality industry entrepreneur Paddy Bamford.