The Vendee is special whatever the weather

disregards some well-meaning advice and finds loads to occupy her family in France’s Vendee region on the Atlantic coast, south of the Loire.

You're going to the Vendee? The beaches are lovely but there isn't much to do when the sun isn't shining, said a "friend" when told of my planned holiday to Western France.

But when, after a sun dance and a prayer, we apprehensively set off en vacances it did not take long to discover my "friend" could not have been further from the truth.

The Vendee lies on the Atlantic coast, south of the Loire, and is the second highest ranking department (county) in France for tourism - with some five million visitors every year.

We travelled by Brittany Ferries from Portsmouth to Caen, some 230 miles from the Vendee and our camp site. For me, the holiday starts on the ferry which takes some of the fatigue out of the self-drive holiday. We barely noticed the miles clock up as we enjoyed a meal, a film and some duty-free shopping.

Aboard the Mont St Michel, you can choose to eat at an a la carte restaurant, the self-service restaurant or enjoy pastries at the coffee shop. There is also a lounge bar with entertainment. Or you can just sit on the deck watching England fade away. We always book a cabin for an opportunity to catch a snooze, relax or freshen up.

Catching the 08.15am ferry at Portsmouth, we arrived in Caen at 3pm local time and enjoyed a leisurely drive, just under four hours, to the Siblu site. We stayed at the Le Bois Masson camp, across the road from its sister camp Le Bois Dormant, and a stone's throw from the beautiful Saint Jean de Monts resort.

Certainly, the beaches are the Vendee's biggest draw. Of its 250km of coastline, some 140km is beach and there are 18 seaside resorts. The Vendee claims to have a sunshine record almost equal to that of the south of France and we struck lucky during our stay.

Saint Jean de Monts has an eight kilometre stretch of clean, sandy beach, perfect for the bucket-and-spade brigade, with plenty of parking for day-trippers. The gentle waves were just right for our two young would-be body-boarders. Every day there was entertainment planned for the beach area, from rollerblading to volleyball, to keep fit and kite flying. Along the sea-front is the Odyssea, a large, glass-encased swimming pool.

I would not consider myself, by any means, a fitness freak, but throughout our holiday we made the most of the cycle paths network. The Vendee has almost 1,000km of cycleways. We found it a safe and scenic way to enjoy both the forest and the coastline. The woodland of the Foret des Pays de Monts offered shade on hot days or shelter in the drizzle. Many routes led to quiet, less populated beaches. One route ran past our campsite. Importantly, I was not concerned for the safety of my children, even on the roads, because of the well-signed routes - and actually went home feeling a little fitter.

Any Vendee visitors looking for a little adventure should not miss a trip out to the Grand Parc du Puy de Fou attraction. This is the Horrible Histories brought to life on a massive scale. The historically-themed park offers such colourful, dramatic re-enactments as a spectacular Roman chariot race, a Viking raid and stunt-crammed castle storming. Its summer nights spectacular, the Cinescenie, also throws in fireworks and water displays on the lake. It is one hour and 40 minutes of entertainment involving 1,200 actors. Truly impressive.

On a smaller scale, a slight drive up the coast took us to Noirmoutier. The Ile de Noirmoutier can be reached, at low tide, by the more direct Passage du Gois causeway but be warned, it is hidden beneath the waves for some 18 hours a day.

The ancient chateau of Noirmoutier overlooking the busy quayside and winding streets is worth a visit. Built at the end of the 12th century, many of the castle buildings, towers and the ramparts are still standing. Inside are a range of exhibitions and relics telling the history of the medieval castle and the maritime history of the town.

Also on the island are the Oceanile water park and the Aquarium de Noirmoutier which had visitors queuing out of the door on the day we went, despite the sun shining. But it did not feel too crowded and the sealion area was particularly impressive. Also on the island is L'ile Aux Papillons, a centre housing hundreds of butterflies from across the world flying freely in giant greenhouses.

Noirmoutier has a reputation for classic boats, with the Bois de la Chaise regatta taking place every autumn. Maritime fans would also enjoy the picturesque resort of Les Sables d'Olonne. It is from here on October 21 (2012) that the Vendee Globe, a round-the-world race for lone yachtsmen which takes place every four years, will depart.

We enjoyed a relaxed lunch with fresh seafood before taking a tranquil quayside walk. We then headed off for some more lively family fun at the town zoo. The zoo is the second most visited site in Vendee. It has some 200 animals, many of which are endangered. Holidaymakers, however, need not move off the campsite.

Visitors can use facilities at both Le Bois Masson and Le Bois Dormant, choosing from the extensive programme of entertainment day and night at both parks. The Red Coat-style entertainment team provide a lively evening whether it be quizzes and karaoke or live music and cabaret.

The pool complexes are a high spot with heated outdoor pools, slides, a large indoor pool and splash zones for the little ones. The health and wellbeing centre has a gym, sauna, steam room, massage and relaxation room. Treatments are extra, around 18 euros for a back massage or a session in the steam room at 6 euros. There is a range of accommodation from the standard, comfortable esprit caravan to the luxurious and spacious accommodation in the excellence range.

Keeping the children happy is easy, because if the sports and games facilities are not enough then the free children's clubs are guaranteed to keep the littles ones occupied. There are play areas, bike hire, tennis and table tennis facilities, a games room and pool tables and multi-sports pitches.

Whatever the weather, you will not run out of things to do in the Vendee.

Factfile:

To book at Siblu or for the latest offers visit www.siblu.co.uk or ring 0871 911 7777. Prices for Siblu holidays start at £252 per holiday home including a Dover-Calais ferry crossing. For Brittany Ferries: visit www.brittanyferries.com or ring 0871 244 1400.

Vendee tourism: St Jean-de-Monts go to www.saint-jean-de-monts.com or ring 0826 887 887. or try www.vendee-tourisme.com