Conservatory Restaurant, Dudley

There is praise indeed from our

for the food at the Conservatory Restaurant at Ward Arms Quality Hotel but the interior design was more than a little disappointing.

The Ward family are the closest thing you get to Black Country royalty. Well almost. Dedicated readers of this column will recall that there have long been rumours that King Edward VIII may have sired one or two youngsters in these parts, but you know me, I would never dream of passing comment. I only pass the information on.

But the Wards are another thing, blue bloods through and through. For nearly 400 years they have been Dudley's first family, a bit like the Kennedys, but from north Worcestershire.

The present Earl of Dudley, William Humble David Ward, is today's head of the clan, and former Thorn Birds actress Rachel Ward is also part of the firm.

Better watch my Ps and Qs then.

To be honest, when I heard this place was named after a famous dynasty, I was half expecting to see a silver-haired American oil baron working behind the bar, but I was quickly put right that it was not that type of dynasty.

The Ward Arms claims to be Dudley's oldest hostelry, but I have to say it does not look that old, and I can only assume that most of it has been rebuilt a few times since. The main building is a fairly intricate red-brick construction, in a style that suggests it probably dates back to around the 1920s. A modern annex houses the hotel reception and many of the rooms, and you won't be too surprised that the Conservatory Restaurant is located in, well, a conservatory.

It was actually my second visit in just a month, but unfortunately my last attempt to review the restaurant was cut short by the absence of any spaces in the car park. On that particular night the place was packed to the rafters, so it was quite a surprise to find that this time, on a Friday night, there was plenty of parking - but not that many people in the restaurant.

It is quite a large restaurant, divided into several sections on different levels. To be truthful it is perhaps a little too large, giving a bit of a canteen feel, particularly on a quiet night - the vast space around the bar could almost double up as a dance floor.

The huge bar is an impressive piece of Art Deco design, its dark wood giving a sumptuous look, and I liked the Victoriana style stained glass. But while the modern, minimalist simulated wood tables, and the burgundy and brown vinyl covered chairs are smart and practical, I'm not convinced they are really in keeping with the more traditional features, and the chairs are not especially comfortable.

The dark wood partitions around the various alcoves also make the room seem a little sombre, but for me the real faux pas is the garish multi-coloured chalkboards promoting the different menus. Fine, maybe for a budget pub chain promoting cheap lager, but for somewhere surely aimed towards the higher end of the market, it really does nothing for the ambience.

On the credit side, the tables were all smartly presented with neatly folded napkins and curvaceous wine glasses, and the public bar next door to the restaurant has been transformed by a smart, modern makeover.

The food menu is excellent. While there is not a huge choice on the standard menu, it is supplemented by a specials menu which changes every day, ensuring there is a good choice of dishes, and that those who dine regularly do not get bored.

It is not bog-standard, mass-produced food, either. The roast loin of lamb, set on a broccoli puree and buttered carrots, sounded mouth-watering for £12.50, and the traditional faggots served with black pudding, mushy peas and gravy are a real piece of Black Country heritage. The chef's own recipe goujons of beer-battered cod on mushy peas with tomato sauce also makes an interesting change from the more conventional chip shop-style fare.

There are 17 wines on the list, but if you want to buy it by the glass, it's Blossom Hill or nothing. If you're feeling flash, the highly-rated Duc de Roucher Brut champagne is available for £39.95 a bottle, but if that's a bit steep, the Venetian Prosecco di Valdobbiadene Sartori is an excellent substitute at a very reasonable £15.95. We decided to share a bottle of Three Pebbles Bay Zinfandel, a fruity easy-drinking blush from California which was good value for £12.45.

The presentation of the food was hard to fault. I had chosen the Herefordshire beef steak – a sirloin cut – which looked every bit as good as it tasted, and the vegetables were fresh and tender, a pleasant change from the bullet-hard carrots which seem to be in vogue at the moment.

The fat, hand-cut chips were superb, being of the rustic, thick coated variety, and is little touches like this that make all the difference between a top-notch meal and an ordinary one. My one criticism is reserved for the peppercorn sauce. Sure, the quantity was there, but it was too runny for my liking.

My dining companion went for a breast of chicken in white wine and cream sauce from the specials menu, and said it was very good indeed, and excellent value for £8.95.

It was good to see that the same amount of thought goes into the desserts as it does with the mains, with local cheeses and home-made puddings the order of the day.

I went for the Bournville Dream, a Dairy Milk chocolate mousse topped with a sauce made from Cadbury's Bournville dark chocolate, an excellent, if slightly rich, way to end the meal. My companion went for the croissant and whisky bread-and-butter pudding, which was something a little special, and both represented good value at £3.95.

A young man named Euan took care of our needs, and for most of the evening his service was exemplary, with him taking great care to ensure everything was acceptable, and answering any queries we had.

There has to be a black mark though for the delay in delivering the milk to go in my coffee. After a few minutes I inquired as to its whereabouts, to be informed that the manager was attending to it. Who'd have thought a jug of cow juice would become an executive matter?

The total bill was £47.80 for two courses each, a bottle of wine and coffees. Very reasonable considering the standard of the food, although I was a little surprised by how it had all mounted up; I think the modest individual prices had lulled me into a false sense of security.

There can't really be many complaints, though. While I had some reservations about the decor of the restaurant, the service was generally very good and the food superb for the money.

Quality indeed. Fit for a lord, perhaps?

ADDRESS

Conservatory Restaurant at Ward Arms Quality Hotel, Birmingham Road, Dudley DY1 4RN

Tel: 01384 458070

Web: www.qualityhoteldudley.co.uk/restaurant/index.html

MENU SAMPLE

STARTERS

Hot smoked salmon and mozzarella fishcakes accompanied with a sweet chilli sauce £3.95; Cornet of Tamworth ham filled with coleslaw £3.95;

Duo of seasonal melons garnished with a soft fruit compote and fresh spring mint £4.15

MAINS

Roast loin of lamb set on a broccoli puree and buttered carrots £12.50; Goujons of crispy beer battered cod on mushy peas with a rich tomato sauce £8.90; Traditional Black Country faggots served with black pudding, mushy peas and a rich gravy £9.50; Wild mushroom and asparagus risotto topped with fresh parmesan shavings £7.50; Goat's cheese and cranberry nut roast on a white wine and cream reduction £7.95

DESSERTS

Home-made rhubarb crumble served with a sweet vanilla custard £3.95; Homemade seasonal fruit cheesecake set on a rich fruit coulis £3.95;

Local cheeseboard finished with an English apple and biscuits £3.95