The Billiard Hall, West Bromwich

The Billiard Hall brings something new to the table, with no-nonsense food served in friendly surroundings says our

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You can't beat the Great British seaside resort on a sunny, summery evening.

The salty breeze, the waves lapping up and down the shore, the buzzing nightlife, the dazzling attractions of the pier.

It's funny the things that spring to mind after a night out in West Bromwich.

Yes, we are about as far away from the coast as it is possible to get. The view from the small front windows is not of a promenade, but a bus station. But, it has to be said, the frontage of The Billiard Hall in the heart of West Bromwich is the closest thing the Black Country has to a seaside pier.

Just look at the distinctive barrel roof, flanked by twin turrets. The flamboyant architecture, the intricate cream plasterwork, with the cue and balls detailing. Doesn't it just look more Weston-super-Mare than West Bromwich? More Blackpool than Black Country?

The Billiard Hall dates back to 1913, when it was built for well-known billiard-table maker Willie Holt. In its heyday it had 23 full-size snooker tables, so it is a little ironic that today it is now part of the Wetherspoon chain, which makes great play of the fact that none of its pubs has pool tables.

You have to say, though, that they have made a superb job of renovating this splendid old building, and the building won the 2000 Campaign for Real Ale award as the joint best pub conversion in the country. Just a few hundred yards up the road is that hideous white elephant The Public; I know which one I prefer.

If you're travelling by bus, it couldn't be easier to get to, the bus station across the road providing a comprehensive range of routes.

Parking is difficult, though. There is precious little free parking in West Bromwich as it is, and there is certainly not much nearby. There are a few spaces up the road, which are free after 6pm, but you can't help but think if they got rid of the ridiculously wide paved area, and allowed cars to park cross-wise, there would be room for many more. Just what is it about councils and block paving?

I ended up parking in the service road up the side of the pub, but I'm not sure I was supposed to do that, and my efforts to get close enough to the wall so as not to block access seemed to provide endless entertainment for the smokers standing outside.

Inside, it felt more like a branch of Ikea than a traditional town centre pub. I loved the curvy, sweeping bar, with its pale wood panelling and matching floors. As you would expect given its previous use, the pub is a long, narrow building, and most of the seating is at the back. The room is split lengthwise into two areas, the raised one reserved for diners only during the daytime.

I'm not to sure about the table layout, though, the long columns of small two-seater tables reminding me slightly of an exam hall.

Not that you could call it quiet by any stretch of the imagination, though. The large group of men sat at the tables lined up against the wall had clearly been, how shall we put this, enjoying a good session, and were speaking more and more loudly as the evening wore on. Not in a bad way, I must stress, it was all good-humoured, just a little boisterous.

A nice touch was the community noticeboard at the back, which not only featured notices for local clubs and organisations, but also details about the pub's star employee, and a customer's letter paying tribute to the good service from a young barman called Bob.

Wetherspoon pubs have built up a fine reputation for offering a choice of good real ales at competitive prices, and I am pleased to report that this is a tradition still being upheld. There were a couple of beers from Burton-upon-Trent's Blackhole brewery, but I've tried them before, and Abbot Ale was a little on the strong side for this occasion. In the end I opted for Ruddle's Best Bitter, a copper-coloured session beer priced at just £1.30 a pint. To be honest, it was too tangy for my taste, and I would go for something else next time. But that is a personal preference and you have to try these things.

And there is plenty of other choices, with 11 keg lagers and beers, numerous ciders and perries, and a wide range of bottled beers and wines. The fact that Newcastle Brown Ale was listed under "World Beers" brought something of a smile to the face.

The huge menu will be familiar to Wetherspoon regulars, with no fewer than 39 different main courses on offer, ranging from Lincolnshire sausages and chips at £2.10, to the 10oz ribeye steak at a still reasonable £8.99. There was also an 8oz sirloin being advertised as the "manager's special" at just £3.99, but I was keen to try the latest addition to the Wetherspoon menu, the new roasts of the day. There is a choice of beef, chicken or vegetarian roasts, and I opted for the beef priced at just £3.99. My dining companion went for the chicken in barbecue sauce, which was also a very attractive deal, coming with a free glass of wine for just £4.89.

Service was bright and friendly, although I did struggle to make my face seen at the crowded bar.

The food took about 25 minutes to arrive. It was quite nicely presented, being on a long oblong plate, and there was plenty for the money. The meat was quite a thick cut, making it surprisingly filling and quite tender. The roast potatoes and yorkshire puddings were also good, but the gravy was a little runny and the steamed carrots far too hard for my liking. I'm not a big fan of sauces in sachets, either, but then again, you have to be realistic about what you can expect for £3.99.

For afters we both went for the Eli's baked vanilla cheesecake. Eli's has become something of an American Harry Ramsden's, a global cake brand which grew out of Eli Schuleman's original restaurant, a favourite with the likes of Frank Sinatra, Dean Martin and Sammy Davis Junior. Eli's signature cheesecake is superb, rich and creamy, and a bargain at £2.10 – less than half the price that some restaurants charge for the very same product.

The pub should also be commended for its sensibly priced coffees, with a choice all priced 59p for a small mug or 89p for a large one. It never ceases to amaze me how some places charge as much for a cup of coffee as you can pay for a pint of beer.

The total bill for two courses each, drinks a coffee and hot chocolate was £16.16. Indeed, at these prices, you could eat out every night and still not break the bank. You're not going to get a gourmet experience, but the food is wholesome, honest and unpretentious, and the pub is smart, bright and friendly.

I just wish it was a little quieter.

ADDRESS

The Billiard Hall, St Michael Street, West Bromwich B70 7AB

Tel: 0121 5802892

MENU SAMPLE

STARTERS

Smoked haddock and mozzarella fishcake (£2.10); Spicy coated king prawns with a sweet chilli dip (£2.10); Tomato and basil soup (£2.10)

MAINS

Steak and kidney pudding with chips, gravy and either garden peas or mushy peas (£3.10); Sausages and mash in a caramelised onion and ale gravy with peas or mushy peas (£4.10); 28-day matured 10oz ribeye steak (£8.99); Hand-battered cod and chips with peas or mushy peas (£5.10); Five-bean chilli with basmati rice or chips (£3.10)

DESSERTS

Belgian waffle with ice cream (£2.10); Bramley apple, pear and raspberry crumble with ice cream or hot custard (£2.10); Sticky toffee pudding (£2.10)