The Orbital, Cannock

The portions are the size of a galaxy in a restaurant that offers star value for money,

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April is a landmark month in the world of space travel. It was in April, 1961, that Yuri Gagarin became the first man to go into space. It was in April, 1981, that the space shuttle Columbia made its maiden voyage. It was April, 2011, that the space shuttle Endeavour set off for its final exhibition.

So, ever one to break new ground, I thought I would wait until May to take you all into orbit.

Well, almost. Strictly speaking, this should be the first time The Insider enters The Orbital. But what's an extra 'al' among friends?

Sadly, there is nothing particularly cosmological about this Brewers Fayre establishment in the Bridgtown area of Cannock. While the nearby Ramada Hotel - mid-Staffordshire's answer to The Gherkin - looks every inch the space-age development, The Orbital looks like - well, how shall I put this? - a pub.

And any delusions of intergalactic travel were put firmly in their place when I discovered that The Orbital actually takes its name from, er, a motorway link. Very Neil Armstrong.

But while it may have very little to do with space travel, its proximity to what is now known as the M6 Toll makes it an Eddie Stobart spotter's dream. During our time at The Orbital, we must have spotted at least a dozen of the distinctive green trucks crossing the island outside, presumably heading for the eastbound A38.

The excellent road links in the area make it an easy place to get to, and the site is a carefully planned campus layout, featuring a Premier Inn, and a large, gently sloping car park. I did find myself heading to the forecourt of the neighbouring car dealer on the way out, mind.

The car park was very busy on the night of our visit, so it was fortunate that another customer was vacating a space near the door when we arrived. Wheelchair access is no problem at all in this modern building.

While it was far from a tropical evening, there were a few customers sitting outside, perhaps demonstrating a triumph of hope over experience.

It's been some years since I've been in a Brewers Fayre, and to be honest I didn't know there were any still around, since most of them seem to have been converted to the trendier Table Table branding.

But perhaps the biggest surprise was that it was all very smart and modern. Not a trace of the old drab decor, austere furniture and chintzy curtains that blighted the Brewers Fayres of the past. Child-friendly, yes, but still smart, with bright, striped fabric seats, chic table lamps, contemporary blinds.

A bit like a Table Table, even.

For such a large pub, it was pretty packed. There were a few spare tables, but all the best ones had already been reserved. Eventually we plumped for a table nicely located in the huge bay window - just the job for Eddie spotters - but we had to clear it ourselves, since the used plates, glasses and cutlery of the people before us were still lying around.

It is quite hard to categorise the type of people who come here - basically it's everybody. The mother of a very small child, who was meeting friends for a meal. The young party girls sitting on the terrace outside. A couple of elderly ladies having a leisurely meal underneath the archway. The young man with the tattoos which would have wreaked havoc with the barcode reader at the supermarket.

For a pub calling itself a Brewer's Fayre, I did think the choice of beers was a little disappointing. If you like lager, Guinness or Tetley's Smoothflow, you will be laughing, but I don't. That left Marston's Pedigree, an OK bitter, but a little on the strong side. The wine list, with a choice of 18 wines, was more impressive, including a Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand's Marlborough region.

As you would expect, the food tends towards simple pub classics, the prices a little lower than at Table Table and the choice a little wider. Vegetarians are well catered for. There is a two-main-courses-for-£10 offer if you go between midday and 6.30pm on a weekday, but alas, I was too late.

I was tempted by the beef and ale pie, but in the end went for something a little different, sausage and mash in a giant Yorkshire pudding, while my dining companion went for a smothered chicken.

And the giant Yorkshire pudding really was giant. Square, and about nine inches across. The staff had been equally generous with the helpings of bangers and mash too. This was a lot of nosh for £6.99.

So the quantity was there, but what about the quality?

Good, but not outstanding probably sums it up. It was all quite pleasant, the sausages were tasty and the mash creamy, but little to set it apart, aside from the huge portion sizes.

My dining companion enjoyed the smothered chicken, which came in similarly vast quantities, and neither of us were able to complete our main courses.

After two such hearty meals, there was really no need for a dessert, but in the interests of research we did decide to share a bowl of profiteroles.

They were pleasantly light, and covered in a smooth, thick sauce, excellent value for £3.65.

The total bill came to £25.97, which represents very good value for money although, for my appetite at least, the portion sizes do seem a little wasteful.

Yet , while I do not want a huge meal, I know there are plenty of you out there who do. And if it is large portions, good value and smart, if slightly corporate, surroundings you like, then there is no doubt you will love it here.

An out of this world experience, then? I think that might be stretching the intergalactic theme a bit far.

But it does represent star value.

ADDRESS

The Orbital, Eastern Way, Cannock WS11 8XR

Tel: 01543 467574

MENU SAMPLE

STARTERS

Chicken liver pate £3.99; Garlic and herb breaded mushrooms £3.50; Prawn cocktail £3.99

MAINS

Hand-battered fish and chips £6.50; Sirloin steak £9.99; Beef and ale pie £6.99; Cheese and onion quiche £5.99; Liver and onions in giant Yorkshire pudding £6.99

DESSERTS

Strawberry sundae £3.65; Chocolate fudge cake £3.65; Cheesecake with blueberry compote £3.60