Itihaas, Birmingham

Our undercover reviewer

found true Indian delights in a favourite place of the top chef Michel Roux.

It was one of the warmest days of the year, and I had that Friday feeling. Spring was in the air, and I wanted to make the most of it.

Unfortunately, I was not the only one with that idea, and arriving at Birmingham's canalside Brindleyplace with a friend, we were met with the heaving masses of the after-work crowd, making the most of the sunshine on the outside terraces.

I never quite manage to pull off the perfect after-work drink. The sun-trap tables are always taken, the canalside seats snapped up well before I arrive on the scene. On this occasion it took 10 minutes to buy two overpriced pints only to end up squashed in a corner next to a group of Hooray Henrys, with their sleeves rolled up, ties loosened, and about to embark on a noisy drinking game.

As lovely as that spot usually is, it was not quite the ambience we were looking for. Turning our attentions to food, we made our way around no less than five restaurants in the area only to be told there was no room at the inn.

"Half nine's the earliest you might get in" was the standard line we and several hungry others were repeatedly told, as the great un-booked wandered aimlessly around looking for grub.

Defeated, we headed to a less rowdy part of town – and it was a blessing in disguise. We walked for 10 minutes towards St Paul's Square and came across Itihaas. The Indian restaurant recently hit the headlines after being picked by Michelin-starred chef Michel Roux to teach young people how to be front-of- house superstars.

It's also won a string of awards recognising excellent food and service, including prizes in the Best of British Awards 2005, British Curry Awards 2006, and was given the lofty title of Best Indian Restaurant in the UK in the well-respected Cobra Good Curry Guide in 2007/8.

It is the £2 million brainchild of businessman Mr Rana and is a sight to behold. Set across two floors, it takes its inspiration from the colonial and maharaja eras, with a modern twist. Elaborate plants, carved elephants, wall hangings and paintings set the scene, with immaculately laid tables and highbacked chairs placed under big, black chandeliers and lanterns.

Downstairs, past several more elephants and pictures of brightly dressed Indian dancers, the surroundings are just as luxurious. Hanging baskets hover above tables, and light catches on the glittering, beaded curtains, which hang on large windows overlooking the canal. There is even a private dining room that has a real regality about, a wood-pannelled room with a huge, golden chandelier.

We were seated in a cosy corner near the window, which almost made up for not being able to sit outside earlier in the evening. Within minutes a tray of raita, mango chutney and salad was brought to the table with spicy, wafer thin poppodoms cut into triangles. The waiters were impeccably dressed in top-to-toe black, and despite the place being packed, two of them fussed around us, bringing drinks and talking us through the menu.

We had taken one of the last few tables. There was a real mix of people around us. A large table of girls in their gladrags celebrating a birthday at a table packed with wine buckets, a mother and her two children having a bite to eat. Some diners were very well dressed – it's certainly the perfect place for a celebration. But equally, it is not so exclusive that you couldn't walk in there in your jeans.

A word of warning however – if you like your restaurants on the quiet side, It's probably not for you. The noise was so great from the buzz of the room that quite a few times we had to raise our voices to talk to each other.

The menu was just as extravagant as the decor, leather bound and filled with a host of unpronounceable dishes I'd never seen before. No chicken korma here – although that's not to say there's nothing similar – it prides itself on serving unique dishes dreamed up by it's talented chefs. It was a little on the pricey side, but what do you expect from a restaurant which is admired by one of the world's top chefs?

Starters ranged from £5.95 to £21.95. A couple of times we were encouraged to order the mixed platter as a starter – the top priced one at £21.95 for two people, offering a feast of tandoori cooked meat. We declined, ordered something else but then changed or minds at the last minute – something in the waiter's eye told me we were making a mistake by missing out on it.

Lo and behold when it arrived he was proved right. Enough to fill the plates of three or even four, the silver platter was brimming with lamb and mint kebabs, chicken sheesh kebabs, tandoori lamb chops and traditional North Indian Amritsari fish, and each bite was simply divine. Too divine, almost – we had to leave a little bit to make room for our mains.

It was a pleasing sight when our curries arrived. Not too big, definitely not small, it was the perfect portion. The jalsaa kofta meatballs (£10.50) consisted of four large, balls of lamb, covered in a thick tomato gravy and flavoured with green chillies, herbs and onions. The lamb was soft and spicy, the sauce was dense, juicy and some of the finest flavours fused together that I've had the pleasure to taste.

My pal was equally seduced by his murgh keema wala - chicken minced with coriander, onions, cherry tomatoes, cracked sea salt and black pepper (£9.95). Accompanied by two naan breads, one garlic (£2.50), one plain (£1.95), it was impeccable.

The final bill came to just over £60 with a glass of white wine and a pint of Cobra beer. Pricier than the average balti, its exquisite surroundings, attentive staff and superb menu ensure its worth every penny.

If you love Indian food you must try this absolute gem of a restaurant. Whatever the weather, it is worth a visit

ADDRESS

Itihaas, 18 Fleet street, Birmingham, B3 1JL

Tel: 0121 212 3383

Web: www.itihaas.co.uk

MENU SAMPLE

STARTERS

Tirangi Murgh – marinated trio chicken skewers resembling each colour of the Indian flag: fiery orange tandoori tikka; fenugreek spinach and mint-marinated Baabri tikka, creamy mild yoghurt and cheddar cheese marinated malai tikka £8.95; Tawah Talapia, seared with strips of ginger and garlic £9.95; Shakahari Murgh – a vegetarian dish mimicking the taste of chicken, made from chunks of soya and gluten tossed in a high-flame wok, and coated with thick chilli and sweet plum sauce, garnished with chopped spring onions £6.95

MAIN COURSES

Jalsaa Kofta – spiced lamb meatballs in a thick gravy with a tomato base, curried fresh green chillies, herbs and onions, with a dash of wine £10.50; Bahterey - fresh young quails marinated overnight with traditional herbs and spices £14.95; Tadka Dhal – tembered lentils cooked in a thick soup, garnished with garlic and brown onions £6.95; Keema kebab with select Indian spices and ajwain £10.95; Tandoori trout £15.95

DESSERTS

Rasmalai – fluffy light sponge cake in a creamy milk base, decorated with crushed pistachio £4.25; Sweet ginger cheesecake served with traditional Indian ice cream and garnished with pistachio £4.95; Chilli chocolate indulgence – layers of milk and dark chocolate separated by a moist chocolate sponge, topped with thick clotted cream, and surrounded by a light chilli sauce £4.95