The Kings Arms, Tipton

Power to the people offered at this traditional pub in the heart of the Black Country, finds our

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It was only the next day, while loitering in the lobby of a taxi office in Wednesbury - as you do - that I realised my ears had not been deceiving me.

No, I had not been watching too much Phoenix Nights. The dark-haired girl in the lounge of The Kings Arms really had been discussing the wrestling at West Bromwich Labour Club.

Here, on the wall of the minicab office in The Shambles, was proof positive, in the form of a poster. Jonny "The Wonderkid" Storm really will be taking on Paul "The Prodigy" Malen and Liam "Bad Boy" Thompson on Friday. So if you find a blank page here next week, you know where I'll have been.

But the grapple action can wait for another time. This week I'm more concerned with man's endless quest for more power.

We might not care to admit it, but deep down we all have an insatiable lust to be in control. You want to do something so you do it. Or you don't, and you exercise your right not to. But you know you could do it if you wanted to. It's just that you don't.

No, I'm not angling for a job as a traffic warden. It's just that for this week's Insider I have made a journey along the road to power. And it's called Toll End Road.

As any Tiptonian will tell you, this road was once the real centre of power for the Black Country. Not because of the regal sounding - and unpunctuated - Kings Arms, but the site on the other side of the road.

The Ocker Hill power station. For 90 years, its three giant cooling towers stood majestically over the region, as much part of the Black Country skyline as Dudley Castle. In those days you didn't use satnav to find Toll End Road, you just followed the smoke. This place really did bring power to the people.

Alas, this is now gone, with much of the site now occupied by a collection of neat, red-brick homes, of a kind which seems to get built on every vacant industrial site these days.

There is still a vestige of the time when Ocker Hill was the power house of the Black Country in an imposing-looking seven-storey office block next to the hump-back bridge. But let's be honest: the eon Engineering Academy doesn't really have the romance, does it?

Today, like so much of the post-industrial Black Country, Toll End Road is a curious clash of styles, with smart, modern houses next to gritty factory sites, landscaped former wastelands, Edwardian terraced homes, and a couple of tower blocks at the end to complete the mish-mash.

And right in the middle of it all is The Kings Arms.

This is not my first visit to The Kings Arms. In fact I tried to review it a few weeks ago, only to be told that the kitchen closed at 8pm. A bit disappointing in this day and age, I felt, but nevertheless, I made sure I was there bright and early this time.

The Kings Arms is a modernish building, which appears to have benefited from quite a bit of refurbishment in recent years. A sweeping flight of steps leads up to the front of the pub, with a cast iron lamp post illuminating the small garden area at the front. There is a good level car park at the side and back, and wheelchair access is no problem.

Traditional pub bar

What I do like is that despite all the modernisation work, the pub has still retained the character of a community local. The front room is a traditional pub bar, with simple furnishings and a pool table in the corner, while at the back is a plusher lounge area, divided into raised alcoves with fabric upholstered benches, the walls decorated with memorabilia relating to the region's industrial past. A roaring fire at the far end of the lounge makes for a homely feel, next to the tables where the men were playing dominoes.

In keeping with the "community local" atmosphere, the food is simple, focusing on old favourites such as pies, fish and chips, burgers and steaks, although the choice for vegetarians is limited. If you fancy a full English breakfast at teatime, The Kings Arms will oblige for just £2.65, but if you worry this may disrupt your body clock, fish and chips is only a pound more at £3.65. The one-pot pork shank in apple and cider sauce with mash, peas and carrots, sounded appetising, and even the giant mixed grill was only £8.45.

However, for real value we decided to take advantage of the "two for £8" offer, where you can choose any two mains from a choice of seven, which is not much more than eating at home. I went for the steak and Marston's ale pie, while my companion went for the Wexford cheddar and chutney tart.

You won't believe how much grief that latter caused me; not the food itself, but how do you write it? I won't bore you (too much) with the details, but I eventually concluded that it should be for capital "W" for Wexford, because that is the town where it is made, but a lower case "C" for cheddar, because that is the style rather than the name of where it is from. Bet you're not half glad we've cleared that up.

The food came fairly quickly, within about 15 minutes, and there was much to be said in its favour. For a start, the pie was made with shortcrust pastry, something that is increasingly hard to find these days, and the gravy had a rich flavour. My companion said the cheese and chutney tart was also very good, the only criticism being that the potato came with just one small sachet of butter.

Of course, you're not going to get Michelin-standard food at £4 a head, but it really isn't bad at all, and puts several more expensive places to shame.

Praise should is also due for the fact the choice of good real ales on offer, proving that it is possible to enjoy a budget meal without having to assault your taste buds with gassy lager or chemically-enhanced bitter. I went for the Mansfield Bitter, a smooth, creamy session beer that most people should enjoy.

To finish I went for chocolate fudge cake, and my companion opted for "melt in the middle" chocolate pudding. Both were of generous proportions, and an enjoyable way to finish the meal. And at £2.40 and £2.55 respectively, it seemed rude not to.

The experience was marred slightly by the long wait for the coffee, but the lady behind the bar was at least honest enough to admit she had forgotten, and was apologetic about it.

The total bill, for two courses each, a pint-and-a-half of Mansfield, and two coffees was £18.90, making it one of the cheapest places ever to feature in this column, and I was pleasantly surprised by how good it was. I'm not going trot out the old cliche about it being "fit for a king" - I'm not even going to finish with a wrestling pun - but I will say it represents excellent value for money.

And remember, in these cost-conscious times, money is power.

ADDRESS

The Kings Arms, 10, Toll End Road, Tipton, DY4 0HP

Tel: 0121 448 0327

Web:

MENU SAMPLE

STARTERS

Smoky chicken wings with barbecue sauce £2.95; Cheesy Nachos with salsa and sour cream and chive dips £2.85; Breaded mushrooms in with garlic mayonnaise or barbecue dip £2.95

MAINS

Barbecue chicken and bacon melt with jacket potato and side salad £5.10; Beef lasagne with garlic bread and side salad £5.10; Beef goulash one-pot meal £6.45; Three grilled pork steaks with mash, peas, carrots, apple sauce and gravy £5.45; 8oz rump steak with grilled tomato, chips and peas £5.75

DESSERTS

Apple pie with custard or ice cream £2.40; Red cherry waffle £2.50; Shortbread sundae (for two) - caramel, chocolate and vanilla ice creams, layered with shortbread biscuits, chocolate and a toffee sauce. £2.40.