The Plum Pudding, Armitage

One of the pleasures of dining as a couple is the liberty to delve into a partner's meal,

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The arrangement allows multiple dish tasting without the need for an infinite bank balance - or stomach.

Sadly, this time-honoured system imploded on my visit to the Plum Pudding.

Rummaging through my accomplice's vegetable risotto, I unwittingly came away with the same mouthful of cannelloni I had delivered as part of the transaction only a few minutes earlier.

With my plate already scraped clear I was rather glad to have it back, but it left the sharing arrangement somewhat one-sided.

Fortunately the rest of our visit to this picturesque Rugeley bistro was entirely satisfactory for both parties.

Save for the Italian flags flapping outside, the Plum Pudding looks every inch an English village pub.

Set on the banks of the Trent and Mersey canal, with a steady stream of boats mooring and passing by, it is an unlikely venue for an Italian eaterie.

But the menu is expansive and packed with authentic Italian dishes, the smooth cream walls are decorated with colourful pastel vistas and an Italian opera CD provides subtle background ambience.

The Plum also has its own Godfather: an Italian owner who prowls the dining area, glowing with paternal pride and no doubt furrowing his brow at unfinished meals - the likes of which there are very few.

Clearly the concept is that all diners will have an Italian experience, not just a meal, and this experience begins with the menu.

It includes a short story detailing how its owners (and their book of Nanna's recipes) are not Staffordshire thoroughbreds but genuine Italians.

Raised in Ripatransone, between the Apennines and the Adriatic sea, they "remain impervious to the arrival of frozen fish fingers", the story pledges. A stickler for accuracy, I scanned the menu to make sure there were no frozen fish fingers before ordering Zuppa del Giorno (soup of the day, £3.25) and spinach cannelloni (£7.95).

My partner in crime favoured the Crostini Tricolore (£3.50) which, it later emerged, is basically bruschetta, and Risotto (£8.25). We shared a small mixed salad at £2.50.

It may be set in a pub, but the typically lofty Anglo-Italian prices have followed the proprietors across the continent.

There are six pasta dishes with prices ranging from £7.25 to £10.95, meats starting at £8.95 and peaking with fillet steak at £21.95, and fish dishes averaging at £15.

Like many Italian restaurants where the owners actually want you to try their homely cuisine, there is no pizza. An ample wine list is wasted on both of us as, being Staffordshire thoroughbreds, we ordered a large rosé and a pint of lager (£3.70 and £2.90).

Breadsticks are provided for gnashing while starters are prepared, but service is brisk and cheerful. Both courses arrived in good time.

Though not a culinary expert, I've squandered enough hours watching Masterchef, Come Dine With Me and Saturday Kitchen to know that risotto is a difficult undertaking.

It's a long process with numerous steps, all of which need to go smoothly to avoid a dubious risotto.

Perhaps the chef can be forgiven, then, for this ordinary attempt. The risotto was a mound of chunky rice with mixed vegetables stirred through. We both agreed it was very tasty - but not really a risotto.

The cannelloni, on the other hand, was show-stopping.

Plump pasta rolls, bursting with spinach and ricotta; drowning in a tangy tomato sauce of rich roasted vegetables and sighing beneath a flesh of melted mozzarella.

I've had cannelloni before, the sort that cooks in 10 minutes and depends squarely on the piercing of a film lid. But this was something entirely new.

Unfortunately the vegetable soup that preceded it wasn't quite as spectacular.

Perhaps it's the reflection of a feeble palette, but even on careful reflection I'm unable to identify exactly which vegetables had been blended to prepare this green broth.

If there's one thing Italians get right it is flavour, but in this case there just wasn't enough.

The soup's failings were made all the more disappointing by the explosive Crostini; a trio of bruschetta-style toasts, topped with chillies and peppers, tomatoes and mushrooms.

All three were alive with the acidic, fruity blast of oil, tomatoes and vinegar you would rightly expect of a traditional Italian starter.

For traditionalist diners the restaurant offers English roasts on Sundays and other themed menus are offered on selected nights - perhaps the hallmark of an upmarket eatery competing with nearby pubs offering popular 2-for-1 deals.

It's not perfect, but is well worth a try if you're looking for something other than the usual curry and popadoms this weekend.

Just make sure you clear your plate - and don't expect a pizza.

ADDRESS

The Plum Pudding: Rugeley Road, Armitage, near Rugeley WS15 4AZ

Telephone: 01543 490330, open seven days

Website: www.ilmarchigiano.co.uk