The Fellows, Dudley

As our undercover meal reviewer

welcomes you to 2011, it seemed a good idea to kick off the new year with a new experience. The Fellows, once one of the region's most stylish venues, is making a comeback after being taken over and relaunched in November by Dudley-based Holden's Brewery.

Back in the 1970s, The Fellows Club was the place to be seen, an exclusive private members club known for its glittering cabaret evenings featuring top stars of the day. But in more recent years it had become a chain restaurant in seemingly terminal decline, and it was no big surprise when it closed its doors last spring.

It's always sad to see an historic building in a state of distress. And this eye-catching listed building, in the shadow of Dudley Castle, looked very sorry indeed, with drab grey shutters sitting incongruously with the medieval-style battlements.

We should be pleased then that Holdens stepped in quickly to save it, and has generally done a sterling job in revitalising this old building.

And it's a building that really does stop the traffic - literally. How many pubs have their own traffic lights? Sadly, the rest of the car park was less impressive. Split between two levels, the lower one looked particularly ramshackle, and a pay-and-display meter really was the icing on the cake.

The large main bar, with trendy whitewashed brick walls and contemporary furniture, was buzzing during the time of our visit, packed with smart, youngish types. An impressive range of seven real ales is on offer, most of them from the Holden's stable, but one guest ale.

The Holden's Mild was excellent, a thick, dark brew with a smoky nutty taste, and the copper-coloured Holden's Bitter is a pleasant alternative for those who like their drink a little lighter.

If you want something a little stronger, the brewery's famous Golden Glow or Special Bitter will fit the bill. There is a reasonable choice of 15 different wines, ranging from the £2.30 a glass house wines to a £49.95 bottle of champagne.

The restaurant area is split over two floors, the upper one by far the more attractive, being of a balcony style overlooking the imposing central staircase. Large frieze-type photographs of Dudley from years gone by decorate the pastel-coloured walls. It is nicely lit, and the thick carpets give a quality feel, although the brown vinyl benches on the ground floor look a little basic, although they are comfortable.

Unusually, no starters are offered, although as somebody who rarely orders one anyway, it didn't worry me too much. Why spoil your appetite for the main course?

As a lover of simple, wholesome grub, I found myself spoiled for choice. Black Country traditionalists will be pleased to see faggots and peas on the menu, and there is an excellent choice of steaks: rump, sirloin, T-bone and fillet; 8oz, 10oz or 16oz; English or Scotch beef.

With a selection like that, where do you begin? With lamb, of course. While the 8oz fillet sounded delightful, I decided in the end to go for the sheep rather than the cow, with a minted lamb steak sounding just the job at £8.95. If you want to mix your meats, though, there is a good range of mixed platters available.

The mains took around half an hour to arrive, so if you are looking for fast food, it is probably not your place. On the other hand, good food takes time to prepare, and it does give you the time to have a relaxed chat over one of the excellent ales.

The food is simple, but tasty. The lamb steak was soft, moist and tender, and came in an excellent mint gravy. There were generous helpings of golden chips and mixed vegetables of the stir-fried variety, with an abundance of spicy red peppers.

My dining partner went for the Fellows chicken, a grilled chicken breast topped with barbecue, bacon cheese and pineapple. She said it was one of the best dishes of its type she had tried.

I would give a black mark for the presentation of the condiments, though. While I quite liked the small basket they were brought in, I don't think a plastic bottle of Sarson's does much for the appearance of the table, and I'm not really a big fan of pre-packed sauce sachets.

Desserts are all competitively priced at £2.95, although there could have been more variety. I went for the hot treacle sponge which was enjoyable and good value. There is a choice of Segafredo coffees as well as a range of different teas from Brodies of Edinburgh. It does make you wonder though - how is it that a mug of coffee costs £1.95, while half a pint of bitter is £1.20?

The total bill came to £33.95, which I would say is good value, and the £2 parking fee was refunded when I settled up. The pay-and-display machine is a throwback to its days as part of a restaurant chain, presumably to stop the car park being over-run by shoppers and zoo visitors. I suppose I can see the point, but there surely has to be a better way of controlling it than this. Even a token barrier, which at least would give customers a feeling of security, would be an improvement.

Of course, the present management has only just taken over, and it may well be that plans are in place to address this. Nevertheless, when I saw the meter my first thought was to drive off and find somewhere else; fumbling around for change in a dark car park is not an enjoyable start to the evening.

I'm glad I didn't, as it was otherwise a relaxed and enjoyable experience, with good, honest food and a superb choice of real ales.

It isn't going to take the place of the old Fellows Club, I guess that belongs to a bygone era that is lost forever. But at a time when pubs everywhere are collapsing like nine-pins, it is hard not to feel a bit of a warm glow - a Golden Glow perhaps - that this famous old venue has been revived, and appears to be thriving.

If that's not worth raising a glass of Holden's too, I don't know what is.

ADDRESS

The Fellows, 1 The Broadway, Dudley, DY1 4QD

Phone: 01384 243600

MENU SAMPLE

MAIN COURSES

Black Country faggots with mash, mushy peas and onion gravy £7.95; 8oz Scotch rump and half a rack of barbecued pork ribs £12.95; Swordfish steak with mango or cajun spring salsa £7.95; Fish, chips and mushy peas £7.95; 8oz English fillet steak £14,95; Tomato and mozzarella salad £7.95

DESSERTS (all £2.95)

Hot treacle sponge; Hot lemon sponge; Hot chocolate sponge; Apple Bramley pie