The Bell, Walsall

Our undercover meal reviewer

finds all is ale and hearty at this chain pub in Walsall.

It takes a lot to keep me away from a beer festival. And it certainly takes more than recent flurry of snow and the outbreak of hard frost which has swept the region over the last few days.

However, while I've no doubt that the catering at the 2010 Dudley Winter Ales Fair was of the highest standard, I suspect one or two questions might have been raised if it was the subject of this week's column.

I therefore faced something of a dilemma. I needed to find somewhere, preferably in the Walsall area, where I could enjoy a good meal and a buzzing atmosphere. But more importantly, it needed to be somewhere that I wouldn't spend the entire evening wishing I was a few miles up the road, sampling the delights of Wibblers Wobbly Wabbit, Over The Edge and Cherry Blonde.

Well, The Bell Ember Inn, which was also advertising its own beer festival, appeared to be the answer to this conundrum.

Best picked out from the busy Birmingham Road by its illuminated gateposts, The Bell is a curious mix of styles. Doubtless this is at least partly due to the various corporate makeovers that go with being part of a big chain. For example, the black wooden beams and white rendering, coupled with the leaded windows, lend themselves to a mock Tudor style, while the gate posts and the totem-pole pub sign have something of an Art Deco look.

A strict one-way system is in place in the car park, presumably to stop people crossing the carriageway too close to the busy junction with Walstead Road. The 38-space car park is level and well-laid out, with three spaces set aside for wheelchair users, although the ramp for people unable to make the steps could be better designed.

The pub was heaving when we arrived, despite - or maybe because of? - the freezing conditions outside. It was certainly crowded around the bar; a smartly-dressed older man jostled for position with two young lads exchanging banter with a barmaid, as they supped from their giant two-pint tankards, and there were a few younger men who looked like they had not long come back from work. There is a pretty broad cross-section of the population here, although I would say it gravitates slightly towards the young.

We sat in the corner of the slightly quieter front room, just down a set of steps behind the flashing lights of the gaming machine. Next to us were three middle aged men who were sampling some of the real ale offerings; by the window was a largish group of young people, including a few, er, lively ladies.

The interior is furnished in the usual Ember Inns style, with the brightly striped seats, wooden logs and ambient lighting.

Perhaps reflecting the politically-correct times that we live in, there are numerous signs telling customers that drinking water between alcoholic beverages reduces dehydration. The one in the toilet appeared to have got under someone's skin so much that an attempt had been made to scrape it off.

But I know what you're really thinking - "never mind all that, what about the beer?"

Well, the great thing about beer festivals is that you can try lots of different ales in small measures, enabling you to experience a broader range of flavours, and it's a similar story here.

No there aren't the 65 different ales on offer - that would be asking a lot - but there is a constantly-changing line up of three guest ales, in addition to the usual favourites such as Worthingtons or Brew XI.

But better than that, there is an offer where you can sample all three in third-of-a-pint measures, lined up in a nifty wooden rack. Cool or what?

On the night of our visit, Wild Swan, Granny Wouldn't Like It and Rampant Gryphon were still settling, so I contented myself with Brew Dog Trashy Blonde, Copper Dragon Black Gold, and William Bros Heather Ale.

I would say Trashy Blonde, "a sassy blonde ale with attitude and bite" was the pick of the three, a straw coloured session beer with fruity notes. Skipton Brewery's Black Dog is a traditional mild, a dark malty brew, and also very good. Heather Ale, which has been made since 2000BC using real heather flowers, is powerfully floral, both in taste and aroma. Distinctive, yes, but a little sweet for my palate.

Oh well, I suppose we'd better say something about the food. The menu is large and varied, with 13 starters, 33 mains, a selection of burgers and sandwiches, and nine desserts, and the emphasis is on simple pub dishes, the most expensive being the minted lamb shoulder at £9.45.

However, I decided to try the cheapest dish. In previous visits to Ember Inns I had tried the sausage and mash, the beef and ale pie and the sirloin steak, so this time I thought it was time to try the Toad in the Hole.

It took around half an hour to come, perhaps a reflection of the number of people in the pub. It was enjoyable but unremarkable, although you have to say it was good value for £5.45. The mash was smooth and creamy, but the Yorkshire pudding was a little on the hard side and the sausage slightly dry, although it did have a good flavour.

The best thing was the caramelised gravy, which really gave it a bit of zip, and you have to say that the portions were generous. My dining companion went for the smothered steak, and said it had been nicely cooked, with a tasty barbecue sauce.

We both finished off with a melting chocolate fondant. Made with Belgian chocolate, it had a strong, rich flavour, and was topped off with thick whipped cream which at first glance could be mistaken for ice cream. An enjoyable way to finish the meal, although by this point neither of us were able to finish.

The total bill, for two courses each, drinks and a coffee was £23.14, which is very good when you consider the size of the portions. I wouldn't say it's the best meal I've had, but it was more than acceptable for this price. And if you like your beer, and the chance to sample three real ales for £1.79 and experience a bargain meal at the same time will prove irresistible.

Something worth raising a glass for.

ADDRESS

The Bell, Birmingham Road, Walsall, WS5 3JP

Tel: 0121 347 7408

Web: www.emberinns.co.uk/thebellwalsall

MENU SAMPLE

STARTERS

(£3.25 for one plate, £5.95 for two plates, £8.95 for three plates)

Crunchy beer battered mushrooms; Goat's cheese toasts; Arbroath Smokie bite-size fishcakes; Piri Piri and Spinach Houmous

MAIN COURSES

Steak and Timothy Taylor ale pie, with seasoned chips, peas and gravy £6.75; Three pork, leek and bacon sausages, with creamy mash and caramelised onion gravy £5.75; Chicken, portobello mushroom and applewood cheese pie with mash and buttered peas £6.45

DESSERTS

Carrot cheesecake with whipped cream £3.55; Spiced sticky toffee pudding with vanilla ice cream £3.45: Truffled chocolate and orange tart with whipped cream £3.35