The Plough Inn, Claverley

Our undercover meal reviewer,

, takes a step back in time at a cosy village pub.

The subtle aroma of charcoal wafted around the room. The gentle sound of crackling, popping and hissing as the flames licked the firewood, the warm blast of air emanating from the fire grate. All those pubs that think glassfronted flame-effect fires represent the future should try visiting The Plough Inn on a bitter autumn night.

The village of Claverley dates back to the 7th century, so I suppose at a mere 400 years old, the Plough is an example of how modern architecture has changed the village.

Somehow, it doesn't feel quite right winding your way through the narrow streets of Claverley in a car. Surely, a gentleman should arrive on a braying, black stallion, Dick Turpin style, tying it up outside the stable block before striding manfully into the bar?

How times change. There is still a stable block at The Plough, but the area around it is now covered with gravel, the blazer-wearing drivers of executive minibuses standing where the horses and their grooms would have once been. And I bet in Dick Turpin's time there was no bunting draped car-lot style from the outbuildings. Still, it will come in useful for next year's royal wedding.

But while the pub has inevitably moved with the times, it still has the feel of a real community local. You walk across the front of the pub to get to the restaurant at the far end, and the main room is divided into several small alcoves.

The nice thing about The Plough is that while the fabric of the pub has not been altered too much, retaining its historic feel, the light wood furnishings manage to lift the atmosphere so you do not feel like you are sitting in a museum.

The tables are simple, fairly modern affairs, adorned by tealight candles, and the ladder-back chairs have a solid sturdy feel. The clientele are smart and stylish, those in the dining area are mainly in their 30s, 40s and 50s. A youngish group has reserved a large table in the corner, and a middle-aged couple are enjoying a romantic meal on the table next to us.

There is a small bar room at the back, and that seems to be where the younger customers hang out. For the last five years the pub has been run by Keith and Karen Horton who, at a previous pub, won an award for the bestkept cellar, so it goes without saying there is an excellent choice of drinks.

As a big fan of the fruity sauvignon blancs from the Marlborough region of New Zealand, I was pleased to find such a tipple on the varied wine list. But in a pub like this it somehow seems more fitting to drink beer, and with beautiful Enville ale, made with locally produced honey, on draught, why would you want to try anything else?

There are no printed menus, rather the choices are listed on a large blackboard on the wall. While I can understand the reasoning behind this - it enables the chef to regularly change the food on offer without having to print new cards - I would still prefer to have something I can read at the table. Why not put the basics on a printed menu, and then put the variations on a specials board?

What the menu on the wall does succeed at is painting a wonderful picture of the gorgeous sounding dishes which are on offer. You can almost taste the slow roasted shank of lamb in rich red wine and redcurrant gravy, and the pan-fried fillet steak served on a garlic croute, topped with pate and finished with madeira sauce sounds exquisite.

It isn't really aimed at vegetarians though - those who do not eat meat or fish would be advised to telephone in advance to check what is on offer. But it was the sound of the tenderloin medallions of pork in pepper sauce which won me over, and I have to say it proved to be irresistable.

"Something smells nice" remarked the smartly dressed lady on the next table as she and a friend took to their seats. Not half as good as it tasted might have been the reply. The flat rounds of pork were delightfully soft and tender, and a refreshing change from the usual cutlets, chops and pork steaks. The sauce was pleasantly creamy, and the accompanying vegetables fresh and plentiful.

There was also a generous bowl of crispy brown chips - none of the frozen nonsense, real big juicy hand-cut chips. It was really more than I should have eaten, but you can bet your bottom dollar I was going to give it a go.

My dining partner opted for the chicken chasseur, a tender and nicely cooked breast of chicken served in a mildly spicy white wine, tomato and tarragon sauce. We were invited to choose our desserts from a small piece of paper, which to be honest did not look particularly professional, particularly given that there were no prices on it.

A shame really, because the choice was pretty good, and they were all reasonably priced at £3.99 - including the cheese and biscuits from a Bridgnorth deli, which many places charge a premium for.

I went for a milk chocolate honeycomb truffle, and would certainly recommend it, a sweet cheesecake-like pudding, with small pieces of honeycomb scattered among the topping.

The total bill for two mains, desserts and coffees, as well as a pint-and-a-half of ale and a glass of wine, was £40.93, which I think represents pretty good value for money.

You will pay less at the mass market pub chains, but you will not enjoy either the delights of the home-cooked foods, or more importantly, the difficult-to-define atmosphere that comes with being at the heart of a close-knit community.

And don't forget that roaring fire. As the evenings get colder, believe me, you won't want to tear yourself away.

ADDRESS

The Plough Inn, Aston Lane, Claverley WV5 7DX

Phone: 01746 710667

Website: www.theploughinnclaverley.co.uk

MENU SAMPLE

STARTERS

Mixed olives with feta and sun-dried tomatoes £1.95; Creamy garlic mushrooms with garlic bread £5.25; Smoked salmon and prawn salad with granary bread and butter £4.95;

MAIN COURSES

Lamb shank in red wine and redcurrant gravy served on a mushy pea and mint mash £13.95; Surf 'n' turf – fillet steak

with garlic-buttered king prawns £17.25; Brixham plaice £10.25; Oven-baked hake on spinach with smoked bacon £11.25; Chargrilled breast of chicken topped with chilli con carne and melted cheddar £11.25

DESSERTS (all £3.99)

Spotted dick; Apple and blackcurrant bread and butter pudding; Apple and cranberry crumble; Cheese and biscuits