The Bailiff's House, Bewdley

Our undercover meal reviewer The Insider takes a trip out to Bewdley and finds a restaurant with the X Factor.

In what seems like the blink of an eye, my Saturday nights have changed dramatically.

Just a few weeks ago, they were spent getting my gladrags on and heading out to a fine restaurant or a friend's dinner party.

But something strange has happened, and an uncontrollable force seems to have put paid to my weekend social life in one fell swoop and looks set to see me sitting in front of the telly until Christmas.

It's the X Factor.

Please tell me I'm not alone. Despite professing I'd never get into it, this year I've inexplicably fallen for Simon, Cheryl and their band of wannabes hook, line and sinker.

Any hint of intellectual conversation has evaporated, and in it's place is Gamu-gate, Cheryl's Tango tan and the unusual brilliance of our very own Black Country based, Brazilian-born bongo player Wagner.

So after battening down the hatches last Saturday night, Sunday was spent restoring normal proceedings and off we went out to eat. Provided we were back before that evening's live finals, of course.

It was a beautiful, sunny day, so we decided to have a run out to Bewdley, where a restaurant called the Bailiff's House opened recently.

Bewdley was at its best, with people lining the riverbank, canoeists rowing past and families queuing up at the old sweet shop, sucking on rhubarb and custards and bon bons.

The Bailiff's House is on High Street, and opened around six months ago.

Apparently, according to an article in this very organ, businessman Richard Hunstone was inspired to open a restaurant after years of struggling to find somewhere to take his daughter, who is wheat intolerant, somewhere suitable to eat.

He and business partner Ivan Rogers, who have been pals since they were youngsters growing up in Kidderminster, were also passionate about transforming the historic building, which had been left to rot for many years.

It was the home of the county bailiff, and was built way back in 1610.

I never saw what it looked like before, but what we found was a wonderfully-preserved piece of history, delicately and tastefully restored.

It has a typical Tudor facade, and the brickwork has been sandblasted to restore the brickwork.

Inside, a network of wooden beams are back to their original condition. The ground floor is the bar area, where a couple were having a drink and reading the Sunday papers.

There wasn't anyone around but my dining partner spotted a sign pointing to the restaurant upstairs.

The stairwell is tiny, so small that on the way down there are leather cushions fitted under the stairs above so you don't bang your head.

The restaurant is a cosy spot, with thick, cream-coloured carpet under a ceiling of original beams. Dark wooden tables and black leather chairs seat around 40 people in total.

We were seated on a table for two near the window.

There were two families of four already tucking into Sunday lunch, and a short time later two more parties arrived.

One sat nearest to us was a family of five celebrating a grandfather's birthday, and he was flanked by his two little grandsons no older than five who sparked much hilarity by referring to the birthday boy as "tired and old" on a couple of occasions.

Guests are offered a selection of bread from a large basket when they arrive.

The menu was somewhat limited, with only five starters and five mains, but with a choice of fish, chicken, beef wellington and vegetarian options among them, there is certainly something for everyone.

I'm told it changes every Sunday, and differs to the menu throughout the week.

And of course, there are gluten-free potatoes and risotto among other wheat-free choices. It was also reasonably priced, £11.95 for one course, £15.95 for two courses and £19.95 for three.

Tomato and pepper soup oozed freshness, and tasted of many more vegetables than those I was expecting. It was one of those dishes that was so full of goodness, it instantly perks you up.

Roast duck was another fine starter, consisting of thick cuts of meat with a juicy orange salad.

The chicken came in an elaborate-looking display, a thick butterfly breast sitting atop a huge mound of mashed potato.

It was heavenly - a huge hunk of meat, tender, soft and juicy and the potato was melt-in-the-mouth fluffy. A big dish of winter vegetables was brought to the table to share.

The size of the portions meant we declined dessert, but choices included creme brulee (of which a gluten free version was available) and cherry and almond tart with pistachio ice-cream.

The bill, which included a pint of Amstel, came to just over £34.

This is a great little spot, perfect for whiling away Sunday afternoons, having a celebratory meal or just if you fancy a night, or day out.

It's certainly not overpriced, and the staff were hard-working and friendly.

Before we left, the waitress who had served us attentively told us the Bailiff's House was getting popular by the day, and that they'd had their busiest Saturday the previous night, proving that not everyone is as smitten with a certain TV talent show as I am.

She also asked if we'd be back. Of course, we told her. Or in the words of Mr Cowell, a million per cent yes. This is one place that definitely has the X Factor.

ADDRESS

The Bailiff's House, 68 High Street, Bewdley, Worcestershire DY12 2DJ

Phone: 01299 400100

www.bailiffshouse.co.uk

MENU SAMPLE

STARTERS

Scallops £7.50 - Sensibly sourced scallops, pan seared and served with a velvety celeriac puree, crisp oven-dried pancetta and a raisin dressing; Cod £6.25 - Cod and pancetta fishcake, made with poached cod, sautéed pancetta and fresh herbs combined with creamy mash, lightly fried and served with sticky onions and a lemon hollandaise; Parfait £5.95 - Smooth chicken liver and foie gras parfait served with brioche and house chutney

MAIN COURSES

Venison £16.50 - Pan-roasted venison fillet, served with rosemary infused potatoes, confit parsnips and a cassis jus; Seafood £15.50 - Sea bass and rope-grown mussels served with a saffron fondant potato and fine beans in a creamy fish sauce; Fillet steak £22.50 - 28-day dry-aged local 7oz fillet steak served on a crisp crouton, topped with liver parfait, served with a Madeira sauce and thyme roasted new potatoes (Gluten-free dishes are available)