The Dilke, Walsall

Our undercover meal reviewer,

, enjoys his experience at a pub which has undergone a number of facelifts.

Is it just me, or does it seem to be impossible to get away from Adrian Chiles at the moment? I'm sure he's a very likeable chap, in fact I'm pretty sure I know he is.

Because these days he seems to be everywhere I look. You get up in the morning, and there he is, on the banks of the River Thames, making pithy comments about people in the news.

You switch on the football in the evening, and there he is again, making astute observations about which political leader the foreign team's manager looks like.

Then you look up from your menu, in a pub-restaurant on the outskirts of Walsall, and he's there again, on the next table . . . Well, actually not.

A second glance confirmed it was a case of mistaken identity, and the lady he was with was definitely not Christine Bleakley. But for one fleeting moment it crossed my mind that Hagley's most famous son, once described as the "archetypal man down the pub", was being the archetypal man down this particular pub, about 20 miles from his home village. It wasn't him, but it was a pretty good double.

Situated on the fringe of Calderfield golf course, there is a bit of a country-club feel to The Dilke, with a big conservatory to the side, and a large terrace enclosed by some distinctive balustrades overlooking the rolling countryside behind.

A few years ago it was refurbished as part of the Table Table chain, which these days seem to be almost as ubiquitous as the aforementioned Mr Chiles. It is certainly a very different place from how it was in the 1980s, when it was a disco with a reputation for trouble.

Then, in the 1990s, it was reinvented as a "fun" pub (as opposed to a no-fun pub?), with bottle juggling waiters, and the somewhat dubious distinction of being one of the first karaoke bars in Britain.

It is with some relief, then, that I can tell you that The Dilke today is somewhat more genteel than it was in its disco dancing, bottle- juggling days.

There is a large car park at the rear of the pub, with a sweeping flight of steps leading up to the raised terrace and back entrance, and there are more spaces on the higher level car park at the front, which provides good level access for wheelchair users. The building appears to be a little older than is typical for the chain, probably dating back to the 1930s or 1940s.

The, quite large, building is divided into several smaller areas, the rear of the pub being a more informal area aimed more at drinkers, while most of the diners seemed to be in the front. The restaurant was furnished in the familiar Table Table style, with chopped logs, weathered brickwork and open shelves with modern ornamentation, although this was perhaps a little less in evidence compared to some of the others we have been to.

The peach walls helped create a warm atmosphere, as did the interesting tulip artwork, but I did think the floor tiles in the conservatory were a little sombre and austere looking, and there was a slight draught from the windows.

Most of the tables were smart, clean and tidy, but there was one by a window which looked like it had seen better days.

There is the usual large and varied menu, combining a mixture of traditional pub meals, pasta and salads, plus a few slightly more exotic choices.

There is a pretty good wine list, accompanied by some very helpful tasting notes about matching up the food and wine. The range of beers is restricted to the big brewers, although Banks's bitter – but not mild – is on draught.

Regular readers will be only too aware that there are few things I like better than a good steak, and there was a choice of four on the menu, although the focus was clearly on the smaller options.

I considered going for the sirloin simply because it was the only eight-ouncer available, but in the end I put aside my concerns about the size, and went for the 7oz fillet. The food came in reasonable time, and my fears about the size of the steak proved to be unfounded. It was quite a nice cut, tender and juicy, and cooked pretty much as I had asked for. I do think £16 (including £1.50 for the pepper sauce) is a little pricey for 7oz, though.

There were plenty of chips with the meal, although they were machine rather than hand cut. My companion went for the hand-battered fish and chips, got a firm thumbs up, being both tasty and generous in portion size.

I was considering the baked vanilla cheesecake for afters, but in the end we decided the more interesting option would be to share the "tasting plate", where you can try half portions of any three desserts from the menu for a very competitive £4.99.

It was the recommendation of the helpful young waitress (Alice, according to our receipt), that swung it. "I tried that last night at the Bentley Green, and it was very good," she said.

I was quite impressed by her dedication, not just the fact that she believes in the chain enough to eat there in her spare time, but that she used that experience to offer advice to customers. Give that girl a slot on The Apprentice, I say.

We agreed on the cheesecake, profiteroles and lemon tart, and found them all to be enjoyable, although I would suggest that the cheesecake was the pick of the three.

The total bill was £35.69, which is fair enough. Not the cheapest, but not excessive either. If it were a shop, it would probably be Next; a cut above the mass-market chains, but just lacking that little dash of excitement and individuality of the top-end boutiques.

Smart and comfortable, with courteous, well-trained staff and good food at reasonable prices, it will appeal to those who cherish familiarity and consistency.

And if Mr Chiles ever feels he is being overworked, or TV bosses feel there is a need for a 24-hour Adrian Chiles channel, I know just the place where they can find a very credible double.

ADDRESS

The Dilke, Aldridge Road, Walsall WS4 2JL

Phone: 01922 746456

MENU SAMPLE

STARTERS

Garlic and herb breaded mushrooms £3.99; Aromatic duck parcels £4.85; Seasonal soup (vegetarian option) £2.99; Prawn cocktail £4.25

MAIN COURSES

Beef mushroom and ale pie £7.99; Half a roasted chicken and chips £7.99; Pork, leek, bacon sausages and mash £6.99; Beef lasagne £6.99; 8oz mature sirloin steak £12.50; Gammon steak £6.99;

DESSERTS

Cheese platter £4.99; Caramel apple crumble £3.99; Eton mess £4.50