Kinnaree Thai Restaurant, Birmingham

"Darling, I think that man's just removed his pants and taken them to that table over there." Not quite what I expected to hear as I chomped on my second mouthful of beef gang panang, writes our undercover meal reviewer The Insider.

"Could you pass the salt" perhaps, or maybe "Can I try your sweet chilli?" But pants? Where on earth had we come?

It appeared that a well-dressed fellow who looked like he could have been David Cameron's younger brother, who had been sitting on a rather jovial yet well-mannered table adjacent to us had left his seat for a moment, nipped in to the loos and come back with his smalls neatly folded into a square and given them to a group of girls sitting opposite, who met this act with thunderous applause and cheers.

Before I continue, it's worth mentioning that I did not spend last Saturday night in the Midlands version of Magaluf. It was actually a really delightful place – if a little bit wild at times. The pants episode was one of several that made this a night to remember.

The place in question was Kinnaree, a Thai restaurant occupying one of the best spots in Brum. With its large windows, it overlooks the city centre canal, across the water from the Mailbox.

We'd got one of the last tables when we'd booked earlier that afternoon. Just 9.30pm was left, a lot later than we'd anticipated dining. What greeted us was a scene of chaos, albeit a well-managed one. The place was packed and every table looked to be having an absolute blast judging from the noise and laughter.

Impeccably dressed waiting-on staff zoomed around tables, dropping off cocktails, picking up empty plates, lighting candles and pouring drinks. We were second in line in a small queue that grew by the second. There were at least 10 people behind us, and the lady who appeared to be in charge of seating us kept disappearing to locate spare tables.

A couple in front who hadn't booked decided to leave but we hung on, and 10 minutes later, were taken to a table for two in the centre of the room, next to a huge dragon boat. The room is beautifully decorated, with gold Thai statues overlooking tables, ornate furniture and exotic plants. At the far end of the room there looked to be a wedding celebration, and nearest us was Cameron Jr and his pals and opposite them, a hen party.

Though it was busy, we were well looked after and a cheerful waitress brought our drinks of Singha beer and a glass of sauvignon blanc. Our seat was right next to a main thoroughfare, and there was plenty of traffic passing.

A petite waitress spotted our closed menus from the other side of the room and hotfooted it towards our table. As she reached for her pad just as she arrived by our table, she went skidding on a stray piece of pepper caught underfoot. She skated across the floor on one leg towards a waiter serving green curry while three colleagues rushed towards her to avert disaster. Luckily a sturdy pillar ensured she came to a halt.

She regained balance, and like a consummate professional, calmly got out her notebook and took our order. Twice in 15 minutes staff carried out a little ceremony at two tables celebrating birthdays. This involved waitresses bringing a cake to the table while singing happy birthday closely followed by a waiter, enthusiastically banging a small gong. One of the recipients lapped up the attention, the other looked mortified as over 100 heads turned to see what all the fuss was about.

The food was superb, and the kanom pang nah gai, or chicken on toast, had a similar taste and appearance to Chinese prawn toast, and came with a tangy pot of sweet chilli. The chicken satay was just as pleasing, tender meat with a delicious peanut sauce dip. The beef gang panang arrived sizzling in a black bowl. Fizzing with flavours of garlic pepper and coriander, it came in a hot and spicy runny sauce.

To say the rice was sticky was an understatement, but it complimented the meal perfectly. Steamed whole seabass came with a warning it would need at least 20 minutes cooking time, but it took a little longer than that. The waitress apologised profusely when it arrived and said we'd get a discount, which we didn't expect at all as it hadn't felt that long and was worth the wait anyway. Beautifully presented, it came wrapped in a banana leaf and had been cooked in spicy herbs, and accompanied by noodles and stir-fried veg.

Then there was that matter of the pants. Throughout the course of the night, the hen party had become more raucous, although not in anyway offensive, I must add. I mean, here were 10 girls enjoying a (fairly) civilised meal in a nice restaurant at Birmingham's most exclusive entertainment district. The only thing that gave a clue to the event being celebrated was a small 'Bride to Be' sash – not a net curtain, L-plate or body parts moulded out of chocolate in sight.

I'm pretty sure a few hundred feet away on Broad Street there were hens getting up to slightly more unsavoury antics. Anyway, as the night went on and the wine flowed, it was clear the bride had been given a few orders from her pals, one of which was to be in possession of a man's pants by the end of the night.

The question was duly asked to the table opposite, where 10 blokes started nervously laughing, and hiding behind dessert menus. Just when it looked like no-one was going to do the honours, one kicked back his chair, give his pals a wink and returned moments later with said item in his hand. Rather him that me, that's all I can say.

The place was still buzzing as we got up to leave, well after 11pm. Our bill came to £54, and a business card was pressed into our hands offering a 15 per cent discount on our next visit by way of apology over the fish.

My first visit to Kinnaree had been entertaining to say the least. When I return, which I definitely will, I may try a different time of day. And I'll save my best pants for the occasion, as you never know what your fellow diners might ask you to do.

ADDRESS

Kinnaree Thai Restaurant, 22 Waterfront Walk, Holliday Wharf Building, Birmingham B1 1SN

Phone: 0121 665 6568

Website: www.kinnaree.co.uk

MENU SAMPLE

STARTERS

Emerald chicken – marinated chicken breast pieces wrapped in pandon leaves served with sesame sauce. £5.29; Por Pia Gai – Thai style spring rolls with vermicelli with minced chicken and vegetable filling served with plum sauce £5.29; Toong Thong – crispy golden bags filled with minced prawn and chicken served with sour and chilli sauce. £5.29

MAIN COURSES

Choo chee – aromatic dry spicy king prawn curry with coconut milk, kaffir lime leaf, sweet basil and red chilli £7.99; Masamun curry – mild curry with chicken, beef, or lamb with coconut milk, onoins potatoes, cashew nuts, carrot and spices £7.99; Pad phed – pork, chicken, beef, prawn, duck or fillet of fish stir fried in a hot curry paste and special chilli sauce with bamboo shoots, fine beans, red and green pepper mushrooms and sweet basil. £7.99