Old Wyrley Hall Country Club & Restaurant, Great Wyrley

Salem Jajili notices the elderly lady tentatively shuffling her chair to the left,

. "I know what's coming next," she says with a chuckle.

Pan in one hand, bottle in the other, chef Salem, is a picture of relaxation.

"My face is right by it, I've never singed my eyebrows," he assures her.

Looking back, I can't believe that I nearly chose one of the home-made pies as I pored over the menu at Old Wyrley Hall. I don't doubt that the pies were very good. But had I done so, I would have missed out on the drama, the theatre, the excitement - and I would not have had half as much to write about.

This was actually my second visit to Old Wyrley Hall, but last time I called in the restaurant resembled a building site - well actually, it was a building site, being closed for refurbishment.

But in the knowledge that the Hall was not only open again for business, but had also been given a stylish new look, I thought I would become one of the first to try it.

If the name conjures up images of a stately home, a remote country retreat, the reality is a little different. It is classic suburbia, a narrow street surrounded by smart, modern houses, and backing on to the grounds of the neighbouring school.

The original building is of surprisingly modest proportions for such a grandly titled place, but a couple of aesthetically questionable extensions have been added to give more space.

Floral displays and window boxes soften the external appearance, but I do think the signs on the front need updating - the plastic illuminated signs with Caffreys and Carling branding are more the type of thing you would expect to see on a working men's club than a quality restaurant. And that is a shame, because I would say this ranks among the most memorable places I have visited since I started writing this column.

There is plenty of parking, in fact it looks like a concerted effort has been made to use every last piece of land around the building to squeeze in extra spaces. We were able to nab a space right by the door when we arrived, and the canopy over the entrance meant we were able to avoid the worst of the downpour.

The building is well designed and wheelchair friendly, although there is only one designated disabled bay and the car park was pretty crowded by the time we left.

While the extensions do not do much to for the building's external appearance, they do mean it seems much bigger inside than it looks from the road.

It is divided into three main sections. The newly refurbished restaurant, a cosy, if slightly twee-looking, bar area, festooned with beams and horse brasses, and a large cabaret room with an immaculate parquet floor and a quite impressive stage.

The dining room is in a simple, modern style. The fresh, cream-painted walls make for a spacious feel, and the soft carpet is a purple/brown colour (you'd know what I mean if you saw it). I quite liked the table lamps in the arch-shaped cutaways in the dividing wall, and the retro-style table mats added a dash of character.

Being a Thursday evening, there was a rock 'n' roll band on in the cabaret room, which made for an interesting mash-up as it competed for our ears with the altogether softer strains being played in the restaurant.

And while the band certainly seemed to be popular with the punters, I couldn't help but think that Salem was the real entertainer.

"I always try to put on a bit of a show," he explained afterwards. "It's what the customers like to see." And the diners were lapping it up, taking photographs as he flambed their meals on his small blue portable stove.

But there is plenty of substance to back up Salem's style. For those bored with bland, pre-prepared food, and sauces straight from the packet, it's like a breath of fresh air.

The flambe menu offers a choice of peppered steak, steak diane, beef stroganoff or chicken and Pernod, and regular readers will not be too surprised to know that I went for the former.

Salem asked if I wanted any special spices, but I can assure you, his standard creation has enough spice for most tastes. Amateur chefs would have watched with wonder at how he transforms a few basic ingredients into a unique meal in a matter of minutes, tossing in a few vegetables here, adding a drop of wine there, a quick flash of fire, a bit of cream for the sauce. Great to watch, and it tasted sensational.

There were also generous helpings of chips and vegetables, so you certainly get your £13.95 worth.

My dining partner went for the cheese and broccoli bake, which was tasty and good value for £6.95, but I can't help but feel you are missing out if you come here without experiencing the Salem show.

For desserts I had a syrup and toffee pancake, which offered something tasty and a little different for a very competitive £3.50, while my companion went for the trifle.

When I got the bill, I was surprised, to say the least, that it only came to £30.30, which seemed remarkable value. It was only just, while writing up this column, that I realised they had forgot to charge for our drinks - admittedly just a pint and a half of bitter. So, if the owners want to drop me an email with the cost, I will gladly settle up.

And anyway, even adding a few quid extra, it was still superb value for a wonderfully entertaining evening.

Blazing, in fact.

ADDRESS

Old Wyrley Hall Country Club & Restaurant, Olde Hall Lane, Great Wyrley, Walsall, WS6 6LL

Phone: 01922 417271

Web: www.owhall.co.uk

MENU SAMPLE

STARTERS

Whitebait with tartare sauce and garnish £3.95; Fresh melon with seasonal berries £2.95; Breaded brie wedges with red wine and cranberry dip £3.95; Creamy garlic mushrooms £3.50; Salmon fillet £8.95; Farmhouse pate with cranberry sauce, garnish and chunky toast £3.50

MAIN COURSES

8oz sirloin steak £10.95; Fish and chips in home-made beer batter £6.95; Chicken and pernod £11.50; Home-made pie of the day £7.95; Beef stroganoff £12.95; Cream cheese and broccoli bake £6.95; Lamb shank £8.95; Home-made cajun chicken £8.95

DESSERTS (all £3.50)

Sticky toffee pudding; Strawberry ice cream; Hazelnut and chocolate ice cream