The Studio Restaurant & Lodge, Oldbury

As we made our way through the dense residential streets, as the traffic thundered past along the thrumming Hagley Road, it seemed hard to believe this used to be a farm,

But what surprised me far more was that, in the two-and-a-half years I have been writing this column, I had never even heard of it.

This quaint little restaurant, along the buzzing dual carriageway between Halesowen and Birmingham, must surely be Sandwell's best-kept secret.

In the 1890s a house was built on what was then Hawthorne Farm, part of which was leased by James and Eliza Kirby. The present dining room and bar were the original rooms - the bar is where the cooking range used to be, and the building has been home to four generations of the Whitcombe/Creed family since 1933.

In their early days a brewery and off-licence was run from the premises, the beer being made from a natural well in the cellar. In the 1950s it became a cafe, and then in 1980 it became the Studio restaurant. So a happy 30th birthday, then.

And a belated happy 60th birthday to the chef. When we arrived, the small reception area at the back was festooned with cards wishing him many happy returns. Perhaps when you have a following as loyal as this, you don't need to shout about what you have to offer.

Perhaps one reason the Studio seems to be such a well-kept secret is that it is not what you expect to see in such a location. Imagine taking a tea shop from Stratford-upon-Avon, and dropping it at the side of a busy trunk road leading to the M5, and you get an idea of what I'm talking about.

Like many of the main roads into Birmingham, the two carriageways of Hagley Road are separated by a wide grass verge. I imagine this is where the trams would have once run, but I stand corrected if anyone tells me otherwise.

Close to the junction with Perry Hill Lane, the Studio is best picked out by its eye-catching pink hydrangeas in the pretty, Victorian-style garden at the front. A driveway to the side of the restaurant leads the car park, which looks down on a tranquil rear garden, and there are also a number chalet-type lodges for people wanting to stay the night.

It was raining quite heavily when we arrived - has it done anything else since about June? - so the umbrella rack by the door was a nice touch. A few people were enjoying a relaxing pre-meal drink in the small lounge area at the back of the restaurant; the atmosphere is homely, with big armchairs and low tables, old photographs chronicling the building's fascinating history lining the walls.

Perhaps it is the fact that it is still a family business, but the staff were particularly friendly and seemed to enjoy working there.

The dining room is best described as cosy, a small, traditionally furnished room with two large bay windows at the front of the building.

A white dresser at the one end of the room is decorated with blue and white china plates, while a large wooden fireplace adds to the genteel feel. There is an eye-catching red and blue tartan finish carpet, and the lighting is gentle.

An archway and a pair of light wood screens with stained glass panels break the room into two, providing a warm, intimate feel.

Unlike many restaurants, the Creed family has resisted the temptation to cram as many tables into as small a space as possible. While most of the tables were occupied during our visit, it never at any time felt crowded or noisy.

"What a table!" remarked a man in a very fetching flowery shirt as his group took his place by the window. The customers are generally young-to-middle aged, over 30 but under 60, and the look is smart casual. Being the type of place where extended families go to mark a special occasion, it was no surprise to see many groups span the generations.

There is a pretty comprehensive wine list, and a good choice of real ales, although the latter are bottled rather than draught. There was even a Coronation Street beer had I wanted to get a flavour of the Rover's Return, but I decided to throw my, admittedly limited, support behind an endangered Midland institution, by sampling a bottle of Davenports Original Bitter.

Regular readers will know I generally tend only to manage two courses, but I made an exception on this occasion. Well, sort of. The home-baked bread sounded irresistible, and even I could eat that as a starter without ruining my appetite, I decided. I suggest you do the same. The two small loaves were a world away from what passes for home-made bread in some of the big supermarkets, with a wonderful aroma, a crispy crust and a lovely soft centre.

There are eight mains to choose from ranging from the cod loin mornay at £12.95, to a choice of two beef fillets at £18.95. We both chose a peppered fillet of beef in brandy and pink peppercorn cream sauce, and if you are looking for something a little special, you won't go far wrong. Quite a large, flat cut, it was pleasantly soft and tender, and the sauce was an enjoyable balance of creaminess and spiciness, although ideally I would have liked a little more of it. The saute potatoes were excellent, with crisp skins and glorious creamy centres, and there were good helpings of fresh veg, too.

The dessert menu included such exotically-named dishes as Ballet Dancer and Pavement Cafe, but I can't dance and it was raining outside, so I decided to stick with the ice cream, a nice large sundae from Worcester-based Bennetts farm, thick and creamy with vanilla seeds.

The total bill was £56.65, so it's by no means cheap, and it would have been much more had we not gone easy on the drinks. On the other hand, it is the perfect place to treat yourself for a special occasion, and there are plenty of places that will charge much more for a far less personal experience.

And I left the Studio with a warm feeling inside. Usually, it is me relying on you, the readers to tell me about the brilliant places you have discovered, and I have to say you do me proud. But for once, I am able to tell you about a hidden gem I have found all on my own.

It's good to be able to return the favour.

ADDRESS

The Studio Restaurant & Lodge, 616 Hagley Road West, Oldbury B68 0BS

Phone: 0121 422 2926

MENU SAMPLE

STARTERS

Home-made chicken liver pate with melba toast and fruit chutney £4.50; Saute chicken and bacon salad £5.25; Buffalo mozzarella and tomato salad with a pesto dressing £4.50; Oven-baked goats cheese sandwich between toasted brioche with raspberry dressing £4.95

MAIN COURSES

Cod loin Mornay - sauteed cod loin with cheese sauce, priced at £12.95; Pan fried calves liver with diced onion and bacon in a dark rich sauce £13.95; Pan fried fillet of beef with mushrooms in port wine sauce £18.95; Sauteed breast of chicken with leeks and mushrooms in light cream sauce £12.95

DESSERTS

Ballet dancers - homemade meringue filled with freshly whipped cream and strawberries £4.25; Pavement cafe - Bennetts farmhouse dark chocolate ice cream with Tia Maria liqueur, freshly whipped cream and chocolate savings £5.95­