The Dog & Gun, Tettenhall

There was once a tie-breaker question in the popular quiz show 3-2-1, where cheeky chappie Ted Rogers asked two couples to name the composer of The Messiah,

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With blank looks all round, Ted tried to help by revealing that the same man was responsible for Handel's Water Music.

Quick as a flash, a contestant dived for the buzzer. "Tchaikovsky!" he declared with the confidence that always goes before a fall.

What is it about quizzes that makes perfectly intelligent people lose all common sense and forget their general knowledge?

I only ask because it was quiz night when we visited the Dog & Gun this week. And when the quizmaster's booming voice asked punters to name a street from EastEnders, I knew that had I taken part I would probably have said "Coronation Street".

Yet it also set me thinking. The dozens of bright young things taking part in the quiz would have correctly answered all sorts of hard questions about some quite obscure subjects. Yet how many were aware of their area's role in shaping our country?

Of course, you know all about the Battle of Tettenhall, having read the fascinating tale of English forces routing the Viking invaders on the fringes of Wolverhampton in the Express & Star this week. And where better to celebrate this week's 1,100th anniversary, than the heart of Tettenhall?

I can almost hear many of you shouting at your newspaper right now: "How about Wednesfield?" Well, yes, I know there is some debate about where the battle actually took place. But earlier in the evening I had already tried a pub near Wednesfield, only to be told there was no food on.

And besides, The Dog & Gun, opposite Tettenhall's famous pool, won glowing praise from Louise Blunt, who lives nearby.

"It was like eating in a top restaurant," she told me. "The presentation is exceptional and the food sublime, all for a bargain price."

Parking was very tight. There are plenty of spaces, but getting in and out was problematic. Disabled access is otherwise good.

Now part of the Ember Inns chain, the interior is decked out in the usual fashion, with simple, modern furnishings, loudly coloured carpets, wine bottles in a glass cabinet, and black-and-white pictures of old Tettenhall on the walls. Some familiar features have been retained, though, the high roof at the back, and the large bay window at the front bringing back memories.

To begin with it was fairly quiet, with a predominantly mature customer base. Then gradually, younger people began to filter in. A 20-something girl sat around one of the high tables with two friends was discussing her "shenanigans in New York", while football was on the mind of the lads crowded around the low table next to them. The pub has an adults-only policy, although children over the age of 14 are allowed if they are dining with an adult.

One thing the Ember Inns chain excels at is real ale. There was Banks's bitter, Timothy Taylor's Landlord and Harvistoun Dragonfly, but I have tried these before. I went for Usher's Best Bitter (good), followed by a half of Betty Stogs (superb).

This was my third Ember Inn visit in the last 12 months. The first time I tried the Timothy Taylor's pie, and a few weeks ago I sampled the bangers and mash. This time I went for the sirloin steak in pepper sauce, while my companion opted for the deluxe chicken burger in barbecue sauce.

There is certainly a huge choice on the menu, but the different offers and specials for different nights of the week are confusing. It was only after I had ordered that I noticed the other tables had some extra menus that were missing from ours, and that I could have had a steak and a pint for just £5.99, or that there was a special menu offering two meals for £8. Admittedly, there were signs promoting the offers, but you only tend to look at the menu in front of you when ordering.

You can't accuse them of keeping you waiting - I think the main course arrived within 10 minutes. Remarkable, and you do wonder how they manage it.

It was pretty good though. With three large onion rings and generous helpings of chips and peas, you certainly get your £7.50 worth. You may recall I recently told you how another large restaurant chain was charging £14.45, and that was for rump.

Given the speed with which the main courses arrived, it was slightly surprising that there was quite a wait for the desserts. I went for the lemon meringue pie, while my companion went for the sticky toffee pudding.

Again, they were generous portions, and at £2.95 and £3.25 respectively, cannot be faulted for value.

The total bill was £31.50, and you can't argue with that, given that we had two courses each, two pints and two coffees.

The staff certainly seem keen to know about customers' experiences. During the evening, we were handed no fewer than four leaflets giving us the chance to win £1,000 by completing a questionnaire.

So? What would I have said?

The word 'good' springs to mind. Good food, good value, good service, smart surroundings. I couldn't find much to fault, save the fact it all felt a little corporate, a little lacking in character.

I don't know, pub chains spend millions creating brand identities, but I do wonder sometimes whether they would do better granting their managers a bit more discretion, a little more opportunity to stamp their own mark, and inject a touch more individuality.

The other side of the coin, of course, is that the big chain pubs always seem to do well - when was the last time you walked into one and found it empty?

I suppose it is a matter of personal taste, and a subject for some debate, How do you strike the balance between providing a level of consistency, where people know exactly what they can expect, and retaining the individuality which makes every visit a unique and memorable experience.

It is an interesting question. And I am sure much more difficult to answer than anything in the pub quiz.

ADDRESS

The Dog & Gun, Wrottesley Road, Tettenhall, Wolverhampton WV6 8SB

Phone: 01902 747943

MENU SAMPLE

STARTERS

Mixed platter (to share) - chipolatas, arbroath smo­kie, fishcakes, houmous and flatbread, goats cheese toast, mixed olives and dips £9.95; Breaded mushrooms, sour cream and chive dip £3.25; Nachos £3.25; Jacket skins with mature cheddar, salsa, sour cream and grilled bacon £3.25

MAIN COURSES

'Posh' chicken kiev - chicken breast stuffed with applewood cheddar and garlic in a crisp crumb, served with crushed herb potatoes and dressed mixed salad £7.95; Steak and Timothy Taylor ale pie with seasoned chips, peas and gravy £6.45; Veggie burger £4.95; Mushroom and spinach lasagne £5.95; Sole fillet with crushed herb potatoes and dressed mixed salad £5.25

DESSERTS

White chocolate and mascarpone cheesecake £3.45; Warm chocolate brownie £3.45; Toffee apple pie £2.95