Express & Star

Foley Arms, Pedmore

Our undercover meal reviewer The Insider almost enjoys a brush with fame but settle for a superb-value meal.

Published

Celebrities -

writes our undercover meal reviewer The Insider

- where are they when you need one? Johnnie Briggs, better known as Mike Baldwin from Coronation Street lives just up the road from here.

Now had he been at the Foley Arms, tucking into a hotpot or, better still, brawling with Ken Barlow, this column would have written itself.

Unfortunately, though, for me, he wasn't. So I'm going to have to come up with something myself.

Aston Villa winger Ashley Young is also said to live nearby, but according to the internet chatrooms I am more likely to find him at the Oldswinford chip shop, which he is reputedly a big fan of, in moderation, as part of a healthy, balanced diet, I hasten to add. I'm obviously hanging out at the wrong places.

Indeed, it was outside this very venue that my only brush with stardom that night took place: en route to the Foley (I think that's how the jet-set talk these days), I stopped to allow a Bentley driven by Jim Driscoll, the creator of the Shoe People, out of the car park in front of the Oldswinford chippy.

In fact, so starstruck was I from this experience, that I might have missed an encounter with Mr Young after all. Having seen one Bentley that evening, I never really paid attention to black one in the car park of the Foley Arms. It was only later that I read he is regularly seen driving his "super pimped up black Bentley" around the area. So did I spend the evening dining with a famous footballer after all? The truth is, I've no idea. If he was there, I certainly didn't spot him.

The car park at the rear is quite awkward shape, and my efforts at parking were not helped by the girl standing in the way, who carried on merrily chatting to two boy-racer types sat in the small hatchback next to it, even as I tried to manoeuvre into the tight space. On the night I visited, there were more spaces in the area to the front of the pub, but the problem is that the entrance is on the narrow access road at the side of the pub.

It is quite a large pub, it seems much larger on the inside than it does outside. Furnished in the usual Ember Inns style, it is quite smart and attractive, the huge glass wine cabinet providing a glittering focal point, which seems quite appropriate for an area so famous for its glassmaking heritage.

Seating is provided by a mixture of wooden lattice-style chairs, and cream and brown horizontally-striped seats, upholstered in a combination of fabric and vinyl. There are a number of attractive large mirrors, and the walls are adorned with some quite interesting photographs of old Stourbridge. I also liked the small raised alcove in the corner which would make a great VIP area for the celebrities who were not there when I visited.

In such a large pub it is quite difficult to pigeon-hole the customers, but on the whole they were a youngish crowd, the average age probably being somewhere around the 30-mark. I don't know what the two young ladies on the table next to us were giggling at, but it must have been good. I was going to say they were laughing like a drain, but now I think about it, I have never actually heard a laughing drain. But if you have ever seen Mike Yarwood's impression of Des O'Connor while he tries to interview some comedian whose name escapes me, you'll get the drift.

Next to the bar is a large glass case displaying barrels of the beers on tap, and it is good to see a big pub chain that supports local beers, with both Enville Ale and Banks's Bitter - but not mild - available. Ember Inns should also be congratulated for it "three beer rack", where customers can sample three different ales in third-of-a-pint measures, which come in a natty little racks.

I was tempted to try a pint of Enville, a gloriously sweet tipple made using honey from bees farmed on the Enville Estate, but in the end we decided to share a bottle of rose Prospetto, a fruity Italian Pinot grigio which was reasonable value at £9.95.

The menu features a wide range of simple, well-priced, pub favourites. with a choice of pies, salads, fish and grills. The steak and Timothy Taylor Ale pie was one of the recommended choices, but I had that last time I visited an Ember Inn, so this time I decided to try another pub favourite, good old bangers and mash. Food has to be ordered at the bar, which was a little crowded, but it did come in good time - although it does make you wonder how they cook the food so quickly.

It was actually pretty good, if you like simple, honest food without the frills, you will be more than happy. The Cumberland sausages had a nice texture, soft but not soggy, and having a good consistent flavour. The mash was fairly creamy, and the caramelised red onion gravy had a good flavour, but was a little on the heavy side.

My dining partner had opted for the beer-battered cod and chips, and said it was very good, particularly given the reasonable price of £6.25.

For afters, cheesecake lovers are spoiled for choice. While the menu recommends the white chocolate and masacarpone cheesecake, I liked the sound of the Rodda's clotted cream cheesecake with soft toffee pieces. We were brought two spoons to share the dessert, well one spoon and one ladle. Ever the gentleman, I took the soup spoon, and it was an excellent dessert - I would say it was the best thing about the meal.

And there is certainly one thing you can't complain about is the price. The total bill was £29.95, and when you consider that includes a bottle of wine, two coffees and a dessert, you have to say it is superb value.

You might not mingle with the A-listers here, but it is star value.

ADDRESS

Foley Arms, 309 Hagley Road, Pedmore, Stourbridge DY9 0RQ

Phone: 01562 887907

MENU SAMPLE

Starters (£3.25 for one plate, £5.99 for two, three plates for £8.95)

Crunchy breaded mushrooms; Nachos, Houmous and flatbread with mixed olives, marinated in lemon and garlic; Pork ribs in sticky barbecue sauce.

MAIN COURSES

Steak and Timothy Taylor ale pie £6.85; Bacon and brie wrapped chicken £6.75; Chilli bowl, with pilau rice and tortilla chips to dip £5.25; Goat's cheese and root vegetable tartin £6.25; Sole fillet £5.55; 8oz sirloin steak £8.25

DESSERTS

Sticky toffee pudding £3.45; Toffee apple pie £2.95; Melting chocolate fondant £3.45

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