Mad O'Rourke's Steak & Pie Factory, Lower Gornal

Please note - as of July 1, 2010 this branch has closed and been handed back to Marston's brewery.

Is a pastry puffer really worth twice as much as a feather plucker? Maybe so, but I still wouldn't fancy saying it quickly after a few pints of Lumphammer, writes our undercover meal reviewer, The Insider.

No doubt the chicken wringer is worth every one of the 11 shillings, but you can't help but feel for the mincer maid having to get by on 7/6. And then there's the gravy girl who gets just six shillings for, er, well doing what gravy girls do.

If you're wondering what I'm talking about, well you're in good company, because I don't really know myself. But these are the positions on the "vacancies" board at Mad O'Rourke's Steak & Pie Factory in Gornal.

It is just over two years since my last Mad O'Rourke's dining experience, and I must have had some effect as its number of pubs has increased threefold since I reviewed the original Pie Factory in Tipton. Admittedly, it increased from one to three, but it just goes to show the power of the Press.

The Mad O'Rourke's story is the tale of an Englishman, and Irishman and a Welshman. The brand was originally conceived by Colm O'Rourke, the self-styled "mad Irishman" who created a curious blend of Irish and Black Country themes at his first pub at Tipton's Five Ways.

Then the Welshman, Peter Towler came along, buying the original Pie Factory 10 years ago, adding two boarded-up pubs - first The Vine in Wordsley, followed by this one, the former Bull's Head, which he opened on April Fool's Day last year. Well you would, wouldn't you?

It looks a lot smarter than in the days of yore, even if it is not exactly what you would call subtle. Visitors are greeted by a giant glass fibre bull's head standing guard over the small veranda. The car park is level and reasonably sized, although at busy times it could prove tricky given the shortage of alternative parking nearby.

The stained glass windows are a nice touch, but I was less sure about the sawdust on vinyl flooring. And not just any vinyl flooring, either. burgundy-coloured wood-grain vinyl flooring. On the other hand, it doesn't claim to be a period pub, it's simply a fun place to be. And the more I stared at the garish floor job, the more I became nostalgic for the type of plastic you got under foot on coach trips in the 1970s.

If you are not familiar with Mad O'Rour­ke's, you might do a double take at the butcher's bike suspended above the stairs. The gravy contraption, and the sign on the toilets limiting ladies to a maximum of five minutes' chit-chat also bring a gentle smile to the face. If you want to take something home to remind you of your visit to the Steak & Pie Factory, mugs bearing pictures of the building are available, along with Pie Factory baseball caps and Mad O'Rourke's T-shirts.

I'm not sure I would want to wear a T-shirt in the pub, though. It's a bit like wearing a tie in Poundland - customers keep coming up to you and asking for your help.

"Pleased to meet you, meat to please you," declares the sign over the entrance, giving a hint of what lies in store on the menu.

There is certainly no shortage of choice, but it's not really for vegetarians. It might be worth checking the specials board, but as far as the main menu is concerned, they will have to content themselves with either salad or nachos. Some of the starters can be ordered without meat (e.g. the loaded potato skins without the bacon), but realistically the clue is in the name: the Steak & Pie Factory is not really the place for an asparagus cannelloni.

If you're a pie guy, though, you'll be laughing. Interestingly, while the contents of the menu appears to be the same as that of the Tipton Pie Factory, the politically-incorrect names of some of the pies have been dropped. Perhaps the people of Lower Gornal are a little more squeamish about these things.

It takes a braver man than me to try the Desperate Dan cow pie, which at 4lb is the equivalent of more than nine McDonald's Quarter Pounders (and before anyone questions my maths, the Quarter Pounder is 7oz when the bread, pickles, onions and sauce are taken into account). There are also five steaks on the menu, but I decided to try Peter Towler's favourite, the minted lamb.

There are several special offers, depending on which night you call. On a Thursday, when we visited, you get a free bottle of wine if you order two main courses. But check the small print, though. I was told my dining partner's small caesar salad did not constitute a main course, even though it included the optional grilled chicken and cost £7.

There is a choice of four house wines from the Chateau Ballykillferret vineyard - and who could resist a name like that? - which includes Liebfraumilch, billed as "the only sweet thing the Germans have ever produced", and rosé, "a favourite with the elite and trendy of Stourbridge." I'm saying nothing.

There are five further wines available by the bottle, but the three real ales are the main event. We went for Lumphammer, a superb session beer, but if you prefer a light ale the Ice Pick is recommended. At 5.7 per cent, the Sledgehammer IPA carries a "Get Well Soon" greeting from Peter Towler.

I did think £9.99 for a lamb pie was a bit steep, but it was good. The meat was lovely and soft, and you could actually taste the mint in the gravy - how's that for a novelty? The hand-cut chips were excellent, perhaps not the best I have had, but not far off. The one thing that let it down a little for me, though, was the puff pastry lid. Surely a gourmet pie should be available with shortcrust?

"We make all our own desserts" declares the menu proudly, and we both went for the scrumptious sounding chocolate chip fudge cake. There was plenty of it, but to confuse the metaphors slightly, I think they've over-egged the pudding. Don't get me wrong, it was pleasant enough, it just wasn't quite the glorious, sugary-sweet assault on the tastebuds I had been anticipating.

The total bill was £32.01, putting it firmly in the middle of the market. Clean and smart, it is a little more genteel than the original Pie Factory in Tipton, but perhaps does not have quite the same raw charm.

It's good fun, and as a novelty venue it hits the spot, and the pie was excellent. It's just a shame they don't do shortcrust.

After all, in these straitened economic times, surely they can manage without the pastry puffer.

ADDRESS

Mad O'Rourke's Steak & Pie Factory Himley Road, Lower Gornal, Dudley, DY3 2TS

Tel: 01384 242226

MENU SAMPLE

STARTERS

Loaded potato skins, stuffed with bacon and cheddar, served with salad leaves and dip, £3.75; Prawn cocktail with brown bread and butter, £4.25; Flat baked mushrooms with stilton and bacon filling (available without bacon), £3.75; Nachos with a melted cheese and jalapeno topping, served with a salsa dip (available without jalapeno); £2.99

MAIN COURSES

Grilled goats cheese salad, £5.25/8.99; Smoked salmon and prawn salad, £5.99/£9.99; 8oz sirloin steak with chips, onion rings and tomato, £10.99; The huge 4lb Desperate Dan Cow Pie, £8.99; Steak pie, £8.99; Traditional Sausage and mash, £7.99; Good old fashioned fish and chips, £6.99/£8.99

DESSERTS (all £3.95)

Bread and butter pudding; Cherry cheesecake; Sweet apple and blackcurrant pie