The Malt Shovel, Chorley

Here's something you don't see very often. A chicken, a small girl and an even smaller puppy playing together in a pub beer garden. Actually, it was probably not such a brave move on the chicken's part,

It was probably the largest – and certainly the most formidable – of the three, but it was an endearing sight to behold. Andmore importantly great to see people enjoying themselves out in the sunshine.

Welcome to this week's Insider, which comes from The Malt Shovel at Chorley, between Lichfield and Cannock.

Recommendations for The Malt Shovel came from both Ian Winship and Isobel Hedges. Ian can't speak highly enough of the ribeye steak in stilton and peppercorn sauce, while Isobel told me how the Dover sole in creamy asparagus sauce was beautifully presented and cooked to perfection.

John Gibbons is another fan, saying that the high standards of food never vary. Praise doesn't come much higher than that, although I was advised to book in advance if I was to be sure of a table – as proved to be the case on a previous occasion, so this time I was taking no chances.

But therein lies another challenge. The trouble with making prior appointments is that events – and M6 roadworks – then conspire to thwart them. And just as I was congratulating myself on arriving within five minutes of the appointed time, I was greeted on arrival by – a clocking-in machine. At least I think it was a clocking-in machine, but I'm willing to stand corrected.

There is a good level car park to the side and a few spaces to the front. Wheelchair access should not be a problem either. The pub seems much larger on the inside than it does on the outside. A small hallway leads to a bar area at the front which, with its wing-back leather armchairs and low coffee tables, has a bit of a gentleman's club feel too it. And no, not that kind of gentleman's club.

There is a small foyer to the side, with a noticeboard detailing community activities, as well as a healthy array of thank-you cards from people who have had enjoyable experiences. It was just as I was taking a look of these that I notice, lo and behold, there was a cutting from the Express & Star showing Isobel Hedges' recommendation.

A friendly, stockily built man with a shaven head, probably aged about 30, took us to our table by the window, in a small alcove at the back. The diners were a pretty varied bunch; the middle-aged couple on the table opposite, the four thirty-something ladies talking about the schooling system on table behind, the group of older people on the large table in the heart of the dining area. Apart from in the beer garden, I didn't see any children, though.

During the course of my visit to The Malt Shovel I also discovered a new brewery. As well as Banks's mild and Abbots Ale, Lichfield- based Shenstone Brew Co's 3 Spires ale was also on draught. It seems Shenstone has only been going since September last year, so I conscientiously took the decision to research it. My initial studies suggest the ale, which takes its name from the landmarks of Lichfield's skyline, is an excellent, light refreshing drink, but I think I need to carry out a bit more work so I can speak with greater authority.

The menu was pretty impressive, with no fewer than 45 main courses. Fish is something of a speciality, with 10 different choices, including seabass and monkfish.

The medallions of pork in a creamy whisky and garlic sauce sounded rather tasty, and there was also a pate stuffed chicken wrapped in bacon and served in a red wine sauce.

But looking through the window, watching the feathery creatures waddling around the beer garden, I wasn't sure I could bring myself to tuck into one of their mates. All the meats are locally sourced from butchers in the Staffordshire area. And, perhaps reflecting that pubs need to diversify these days, it also has its own grocery shop, and provides a takeaway fish and chip service.

They kept us waiting though. While I appreciate that if you want to enjoy the delights of fresh, home-cooked food, you cannot expect it to arrive in 10 minutes, I do not think there is any excuse for having to wait half an hour before somebody arrives to take your order. To be fair, it was busy, but even so, they could always take on more staff.

It did give me plenty of time to choose, though, and after careful deliberation I opted for the pork fillet in peppercorn sauce, while my dining partner went for the breast of chicken. The food itself came in good time – the wait was much less than it was to take our order. Presentation was simple but effective, the fillet having been chopped into five slices before the thick, peppery sauce was poured on, with the chips and vegetables being served separately.

Juicy and tender, it was definitely one of the better pork fillets I have tried, and special mention must go for the glorious golden hand-cut chips, it's not hard to see why people buy them to take out.

My companion's chicken looked a hearty meal too, served in leek and stilton sauce.

For afters, I had the chocolate fudge cake, a large slice in a thick gooey caramel sauce which rounded the meal off nicely. My companion had a chocolate orange torte. Time to settle up then. I had been expecting the bill to be in the region of £50, so I was pleasantly surprised when it came to £40.20, although in order to get the bill I had to walk across the dining area to find a waiter.

The food was very good, the drinks excellent, and the prices are not excessive, which is probably why there are so many thank you cards from satisfied customers on the noticeboard. But given its obvious popularity, perhaps they should take on more staff.

Perhaps we were just unlucky, maybe you don't normally wait so long. But I had to smile at the request on the menu, which asks customers not to spend more than two hours at their tables.

ADDRESS

The Malt Shovel, Lower Lane, Chorley WS13 8DD

Phone: 01543 888393

MENU SAMPLE

STARTERS

Potato Skins, filled with cheese and served with a garlic, chilli or barbecue dip £4.25; Deep fried breaded brie with fruit chutney £4.75; Stilton mushrooms with a garlic dip £4.75; Galia melon with lemon sorbet and coulis £4.50

MAIN COURSES

16oz T-bone steak £15.95; Sweet and sour chicken sizzler £10.50; Vegetarian lasagne £8.95; Creamy brocolli and potato bake £8.95; Home-made deep dish steak and ale pie £8.95; Lamb cutlets in red wine gravy £11.50; Panfried medallions of beef served in a creamy whisky and garlic sauce £14.95; Two seabass fillets served in a sweet chilli sauce with stir fried vegetables £14.95

DESSERTS

Desserts (all £4.25) Lemon meringue pie, Bailey's cheesecake, Profiteroles