The Old Bush Inn, Swindon, near Dudley

"What's this village called?," asked a diner at the Old Bush in Swindon. "We're not from around here."

"Where have you come from?", inquired the man from the Old Bush. "Willenhall," came the reply.

Isn't the Black Country marvellous? The man from Willenhall had only driven 10 miles, yet he had discovered not only a new pub, but a whole new world, and a new village he had never heard of.

Ten miles in the Black Country is like 100 miles anywhere else. Mind you, had he typed "Swindon" into his sat nav, he may well have ended up 100 miles from his home.

And anybody who has not been to Swindon since the early 1970s will find themselves discovering a whole new village. This small outpost, on the fringes of Highgate Common, is unrecognisable from the old black-and-white pictures on the walls of the Old Bush.

For more than 500 years, the Swin Forge iron and steel works had dominated village life. Indeed, when Oliver Cromwell's men chased the remnants of Charles II's men following defeat at the Battle of Worcester, they stopped in Swindon to have their swords sharpened.

The Swindon pictured on the walls of the Old Bush is one from a bygone age, when the belching chimneys of heavy industry nestled side-by-side with agriculture. Farming is still an important part of Swindon, but the community centre – once the iron works' canteen – is the only sign of the village's industrial past.

Today's Swindon is a much more genteel affair, with executive houses standing where the beating heart of the Swin Forge once stood, and pleasure boats taking the place of working barges in nearby marina.

Yet while the character of the village has been transformed, the Old Bush has retained its role as a real community local, having lost none of its traditional character. While Hanson's Mild was consigned to the history books some years ago, the name of the famous Black Country brew is still emblazoned across the outside of the building, a nice reminder of a local institution which should never have been allowed to disappear.

The pub rabbit occupies a yard known as The Farm (doesn't that sound like something out of The Prisoner?) at the back, and there are several tables at the side of the road which are popular during the summer months. The pub is home to the Old Bush Shooting Club, where anybody can go along and learn clay pigeon shooting, and the film club meets on a Monday night.

More importantly, Wednesdays and Fridays are steak nights, and regular readers will know I have long been partial to a good steak. It seems I am not alone.

By the time we arrived all the tables were taken and there were already two groups waiting in the bar for one to become free.

The pub is a sort of "U"shape, with a bar in the middle. The side nearest the entrance is a warm cosy lounge area, with dozens of horse brasses joining the pictures of old Swindon on the walls.

You could say the restaurant area is very cosy indeed. It is only a small pub, and space is at a premium, but provided you don't mind a bit of a squeeze when you need to leave your seat, it adds to the friendly, intimate atmosphere.

Mugs hang from the beamed ceiling, and the tables are covered with white linen cloths. To add a dash of colour, burgundy cloths made from a vinyl-type material are placed diagonally across the tables, but while no doubt hard wearing, I did think they cheapened the place a little.

The plastic Sarsons vinegar bottles also get black marks for presentation, although the cutlery did look to be of good quality.

There is a reasonably large and varied menu, with a page of vegetarian dishes, as well as two home-made pies, and a choice of lamb, pork and fish dishes.

On the night of our visit there was also a special Italian menu, offering three courses for £14.99, but you don't come on steak night and have pasta, do you?

"Our steaks are the best," a jovial man in shorts, who appeared to be in charge, told the couple from Willenhall "Look around, and you'll see the steaks are what everybody has."

The 8oz fillet, which came in good time, lived up to its billing. While there was a little fat around the edge, it was moist and tender as well as nicely cooked. For me the flavour was just right, but if you're looking for a stronger taste there is a sirloin available for £9.45.

The fillet represents good value at £12.95, and as it was steak night you get a choice of a free bottle of wine – well at 250ml, it's more of a glass really – or a free dessert.

I also went for a thick creamy pepper sauce for and extra £2.40, which tasted good, although I would have liked a little more of it.

My dining partner went for the chargrilled chicken with chasseur sauce which went down well, and we both agreed the crispy golden chips were top notch.

To accompany it, we decided to try Ringwood Brewery's splendidly-named Boondoggle ale, a light, fruity little number which is just the job for those warm, balmy evenings which we're all hoping for this year. Jennings excellent Cumberland ale is also on tap, along with Banks's mild and bitter.

If you're tempted by the beer pull for the special Banks's dark mild, you will be disappointed, though; apparently it has not been available for some years.

For afters we went for a home-made amaretto coffee liqueur cheesecake, and a light lemon mousse tart, and I am happy to confirm that they both tasted very good. The bill came to £38.26, which was not bad for a pleasant night out.

There are a few rough edges, such as the confined space, the table coverings and the vinegar bottles, but then again, it does not pretend to be a trendy, silver service gastropub. What it does offer, though, is good food in a lovely warm, friendly environment – which is why, I suspect, it was packed to the rafters. And definitely worth travelling for.

ADDRESS

The Old Bush Inn, High Street, Swindon, near Dudley, DY3 4NR

Phone: 01384 279235

MENU SAMPLE

Starters

Garlic mushrooms £3.95; Country style liver pate £3.95; Potato skins £3.95

Main courses

12oz gammon £8.45; Steak, ale and mushroom pie £7.95; Pork chops £7.95; Lamb shank £8.95; Sea bass £8.95; Lasagne £6.95

Desserts

Caramel-topped apple pie £3.45; Tiramisu £3.45; Spotted dick £3.45; Chocolate lumpy bumpy £3.45