The Holly Bush Inn, Salt

At the height of the 17th century gin craze, people were so desperate for the cheap, potent,liquor that was invading these shores, they would go to incredible lengths to get their fix.

Apparently, those at the margins of society, those people too impoverished to buy a glass of pernicious Dutch drink, would quite happily hand over a small amount of money to taste a ginsoaked rag.

You live and learn, doing this job. This time last week, I confess, I knew pretty much next to nothing about the history of Britain's licensing laws, but if tales like the

above are anything to go by, it is no wonder the authorities felt the need to bring public drinking under control.

At this point you are probably thinking something along the lines of "this guy's got too much time on his hands", but there is actually a very good reason why I have decided to familiarise myself with legislation such as the Gin Act of 1736.

The Holly Bush Inn, in the idyllic village of Salt on the banks of the River Trent, lays claim to being only the second pub in Britain to be granted a drinks licence, and its origins are said to go back as far as 1190, making it one of the oldest pubs in England.

Not that I can imagine The Holly Bush was ever a den of iniquity. This charming little thatched pub could almost have been designed for the picture postcard industry.

And it seems to have won more awards than Walt Disney. The Publican British Pub Food of the Year award, for example. Les Routiers Dining Pub of the Year. Egon Ronay's Gastropub recommended. Staffordshire Dining Pub of the Year. Oh, and don't forget the Pub Website of the Year award (www.hollybushinn.co.uk)

If, like me, you're reliant on the old Tom-Tom for directions, you might have a few problems finding it. Fortunately, the pub is reasonably well signposted. There is a level car park to the side, but it was jammed to the rafters on the night of our visit, and we had to wait for somebody to leave before we found a space.

It's a bit early in the year for the hanging baskets – I forgot to mention the Britain in Bloom "Best Rural Pub in Stafford" award – but there was a pretty bed of daffodils in front of the parish noticeboard.

The pub looks much older inside than it does out. No corporate-issue mock-Tudor beams and horse brasses here, this is definitely the real McCoy. The hefty, dimpled

woodwork around the bar looks sturdy enough to withstand a nuclear attack. The pub has been extended over the years, and is now divided into three sections – a bar

room in the heart of the pub, a restaurant in a newer extension at the side nearest the car park, and a small area at the back which seemed to be populated mainly by drinkers.

The main dining room is a cosy affair, all exposed brickwork and leaded windows, with a little woodburning stove and a wooden barrel in the corner. As we settled

at our table in the centre of the packed dining room, my eyes were drawn to a cabinet on the wall which appeared to be filled with plumbing components; you know the sort of thing, taps, valves, pipe work. Closer examination revealed they were different devices used in the brewing trade, and there was also a set of clay pipes on display in another case.

For all its gourmet awards, it remains very much the village pub, and there is a very simple, unpretentious air about the folding plastic wallet the menu came in, and

food orders are taken at the bar.

There is a pretty impressive wine list, but when you come to a pub like this it seems a crime not to try a pint of real ale. I had been hoping to try one of the locally produced ales from Slater's brewery, but sadly it did not feature among the pump clips. This disappointment was mitigated to some degree by the opportunity to become one of the first to get a taste of Everard's new Flourish ale. Made with both Challenger and Styrian Golding hops, blended with Northdown malt, this chestnut ale has a lively, fruity flavour.

Given the Holly Bush's gastro-pedigree, I thought the prices were very reasonable – £11.50 for an 8oz fillet steak, £13.95 for a 20 oz T-bone – and many of the choices

sounded mouthwatering. I was particularly impressed by how much care seemed to have gone into sourcing the meats. Just to make the decision harder there is a good choice of specials. The lady behind the bar was most pleasant, even producing some tasting notes as I agonised over which beer to go for.

If you put your drinks on a tab, you are asked to leave your credit card behind the bar and are given a small key for when you come to reclaim it. I guarded this key with my life.

The food came in good time, and it was not hard to see what all the fuss was about. My three pork chops were superb, really something special. Having not a hint of

toughness about them, they were glazed in an exquisite honey and whole grain mustard sauce, which perfectly struck the delicate balance between being flavoursome without being too hot. My dining partner was also full of praise for the grilled chicken breast, which had been locally barn reared, and came with herbs and a spicy tomato chutney, and she was particularly impressed by the hand-cut chips.

After all that, I didn't want much for a dessert, and the white chocolate and champagne mousse was just the job. A small round mousse on a crispy biscuit base, like

everything else it looked to have been constructed with care, and was excellent value at £3.95. My companion went for the hot syrup sponge with cream, which came at the same price.

The bill came to £33.50, remarkable really when you consider the standard of the food, and all the awards that have been won.

There are cheaper places, there are posher places, but there aren't many that provide this standard of food for run-of-the-mill prices. Let's not beat about the Bush,

this place is superb.

And well worth its Salt.

ADDRESS

The Holly Bush Inn, Salt, near Stafford ST18 0BX

Phone: 01889 508234

SAMPLE MENU

Starters

Green shelled mussels with a tomato, fresh basil and garlic sauce £3.95; Breaded mushrooms with a garlic dip £3.95; Staffordshire oatcakes stuffed with spiced black

pudding and herby tomato sauce £3.95; Forest blue stuffed pears with blue cheese glazed over ripe pears with a raspberry and poppy seed vinaigrette £3.95

Main courses

Home-made steak and kidney pudding, with onion gravy £8.95; Greek lamb - roast shoulder of lamb baked with red wine and a blend of herbs and spices, with

Greek-style salad £8.50; Slow cooked venison casserole with home-cured bacon, button mushrooms and red wine £9.25; Deep fried, beer battered cod with mushy peas £7.95; Braised lamb and apples flavoured with nutmeg and allspice £9.50; 5oz rump steak £6.95; 8oz sirloin £10.50; 8oz fillet £11.50; 20oz T-bone £13.95

Desserts

Syrup sponge £3.95; Victorian apple pie £3.95; Red cherry cheesecake £3.95; Cheese and biscuits £4.95 for one person/ £7.95 for two.