The Four Stones Restaurant, Clent

The things some people will do to get one over their neighbours. While some people are content with getting new windows or a flash car in their endless quest to get one over the neighbours, it seems the aristocrats of the 18th century sometimes took this a little bit further.

Word has it that Lord Lyttelton was so fed up with hearing the Earl of Dudley boasting about how no man-made structures obstructed the view from his home at Himley

Hall, he decided he had to do something about it – and installed four giant rocks on the top of the Clent Hills.

Whether the story is actually true I cannot say, but you have to say it does beat a spot of block paving. And had His Lordship not decided to erect his folly on top of the

rolling hills of North Worcestershire, it is fair to say you would not this week be reading about my experience at The Four Stones Restaurant, recommended to me by Pete from Chaddesley Corbett.

It pays to keep fit. The restaurant is at the top of Adams Hill, and boy is it steep.

There is a long narrow strip of parking spaces on the side of the hill, and a small car park at the bottom. And due to what was clearly a large number of visitors – and

some very inconsiderate parking (yes, that's you in the blue Peugeot across two spaces, and you in the burgundy Fiesta taking up three) – I found myself parking in the latter.

Let's just say I had worked up quite an appetite by the time I arrived.

It's well worth climbing up the hill for, though. This is the sort of place you come for an experience rather than just a meal, so there is none of that to-ing and fro-ing you get at places with a high table turnover.

There was already a healthy contingent of diners relaxing in the bar area when we arrived.

The bar has an opulent feel, with oak panelling, and a hand-made map of Clent on the wall, detailing the wildlife that can be found around the area. The conservatory at

the front of the building is equally plush, with soft lighting and easy chairs making it the perfect place for a leisurely drink.

As we sank into the deep sofa at the bar, we were presented with a bowl of olives. Having decided to start the evening with an orange juice – live fast, die young, that's my motto – the smartly dressed gentleman who appeared to be in charge of the floor asked me if I wanted ice with that. "No, thank you," was my emphatic reply, so it was a little disappointing to find I got some anyway. It's a shame, because the service was otherwise pretty close to flawless.

Staff invited the various groups to their tables in fairly quick succession, greeting customers one by one as they enter the restaurant, ensuring a smooth transition.

There are two dining rooms, one upstairs, and a T-shaped front room on the ground floor where we were seated.

About to enter the downstairs restaurant, a youngish, bald-headed business-type paused to survey the scene ahead. Having briefly cast his eyes around the room, he

rubbed his hands together: "It's going to be good," he said, struggling to control his glee.

And he wasn't far wrong.

The downstairs dining room is beautifully furnished. Not a trendy, not unduly traditional, just classy. The generously upholstered chairs, the thick table cloths, and the

elegant table lamps giving a feel of understated quality, and the gentle lemon and peach provide a stylish contrast to the oak panelling.

It is very much a place for the stylish set; smartly dressed people in their 30s, 40s or 50s, who have decided to treat themselves.

A large table was taken up by what looked like a works party, and sitting opposite them were three ladies probably in their 30s having a relaxed chat.

The neatly-bound five-page menu, which had been presented to us in the bar, was a mixture of Italian speciality dishes, fresh fish bought the same day from Birmingham market, as well as a few traditional recipes for those with more conservative tastes.

Don't expect bargain prices, though. The cheapest item on the a la carte menu was the pheasant casserole, at £11.75, while the 12oz fillet steak weighed in at £25.95 – plus an extra £1.70 if you want a sauce. There is also a set menu offering three courses for £19.95, or £18.95 on Tuesdays, Wednesdays and Thursdays.

First things first, we ordered half a bottle of Frascati Superiore, a soft, golden white with some quite fruity notes. Deciding that you do not come to places like this very

often, I pushed the boat out and went for the fillet - but only the 8oz, at £19.95, plus £1.70 for a pepper sauce.

It came in reasonable time, and as you would expect it was of the highest quality.

The steak was delightfully tender and lean, but still with plenty of flavour. The sauce had a complex blend of flavours, the hints of brandy delicately balanced with the spicy peppers, and there were generous helpings of fresh and nicely cooked vegetables. In fact so generous were the portions that my side order of chips proved superfluous - and to be honest, they let the side down a little bit; it's not that they were bad, and to be fair they only cost £1.50, but when you come to a place like this, surely you can expect more than a bowl of slightly hard, machine cut chips?

My dining partner opted for the grilled salmon supreme, which had been coated in a rich creamy lemon and dill sauce, and she said it was really something special indeed.

During the course of the meal, the chef, a silver-haired Italian man, came round to check everything was up to scratch.

For afters, I went for the profiteroles in chocolate liqueur sauce, while my companion opted for Amaretto and summer fruits dessert, on a light crispy biscuit base. Both

were superb, and good value at £5.25.

I had been bracing myself for a pretty horrendous bill, so I was, if anything, slightly relieved when it came to £62.45. In fact, I'm going to stick my neck on the line and say I think it actually represents good value for money.

One thing bothers me though. I have just been up to Himley Hall, and I cannot even see the Clent Hills, let alone the Four Stones.

Perhaps its just as well I'm getting some new glasses.

ADDRESS

The Four Stones Restaurant, Adams Hill, Clent DY9 9PS

Phone: 01562 883260

SAMPLE MENU

Starters

Galia melon with mixed berries and home-made sorbet £6.96; Mussels mariniere – Scottish mussels sautéd with chopped onions, garlic butter and white wine, finished

with cream and parsley £6.95

Main courses

Ravioli filled with spinach and ricotta, covered with creamed ragout of shitake and oyster mushrooms £14.95; Supreme of chicken topped with rich mushroom, bacon, red wine and shallot sauce £12.95; Five bone rack of spring lamb roasted with a hint of garlic and rosemary, served on a sherry and butter jus, £17.95

Desserts

Pine nut praline, egg and double cream, infused with Grand Marnier in a brandy snap basket £5.25