The Sun & Slipper, Mamble, near Bewdley

Remember the old St Bruno advert? You know, bloke with an iffy moustache and a serious smoking habit, who looks distraught at running out of baccy in a log cabin on a snowcapped mountain?

I only ask because it felt a bit like that as we made our way through the Worcestershire countryside to bring you to reach this week's venue of choice. Not in the sense of the tobacco cravings.

Times change, and if Mr Moustache visited The Sun & Slipper today, not only would he have to update his knitwear, he would also have to contend with the smoking ban. It wouldn't matter if a lorry full of St Bruno pulled up in the car park, he would still have to go outside to light up like everyone else.

But it did feel like a bit of an expedition into a wintry outpost. I'm not saying the village of Mamble is off the beaten track, but it does have its own weather system. I kid you not, it's strange but true.

From Wolverhampton, through Dudley, then Kidderminster, not so much as a snowflake. In Bewdley there was a bit of light sleet, but nothing much. Then you get to Mamble and find the village is covered in snow, the frost hard and thick on the ground. Not much in the way of Sun, but it sure is Slippery.

What really reminded me of the old tobacco advert, though, was the larger-than-life character next to the bar. No, not a pipe smoker with the aforementioned facial hair and dubious taste in pullovers.

But there was a beautiful, docile, St Bernard, lying in the doorway, occasionally raising his head when somebody walks past, and venturing out for a mooch in the cold when somebody opens the door. I half expected to see Bernie Winters propping up the bar.

It was Roger Underwood from Bewdley who suggested I tried The Sun & Slipper, saying he enjoyed it so much he visited every Friday night. So Hello Roger, if you were there when we visited.

The pub is quite an impressive grade II listed building, dating back to the 17th century and overlooking the village green. For the last 16 years it has been run by husband-and-wife team

Roger and Wendy Carr, who have made many thoughtful improvements to the pub.

There is a small garden area to the side, separating the good-sized level car park from the road. Steps lead up to the bar from the main entrance at the front, but most car-bound diners will enter through an unassuming entrance at the side of the pub.

"Please remove muddy boots before entering" says a hand-written note on the door. The bar is on the left, while the restaurant is at the end of a narrow corridor.

It has to be said, the owners had done a wonderful job in creating a stylish place to eat, striking a near-perfect balance in retaining the historic, period character and marrying it to modern comforts and conveniences.

The substantial wooden beams are an attractive mid brown colour, providing an attractive contrast with the smart cream paint of the walls and ceilings. The tables are mainly of the rustic farmhouse style, although ours, while still attractive, had a synthetic wood finish.

Smart brown blinds hang in the windows, and the ambience was completed by the cream napkins which had been folded into a fan shape.

It was a little quiet for a Friday, though. When we arrived, there were two mature groups on neighbouring tables, who appeared to know each other, and were discussing a television drama about deranged man who loses control of his actions and kills a woman. At least I hope it was a television programme.

A young couple, who appeared to have ordered their meal in the bar, came in a little later, followed by another slightly older couple who also seemed to be friendly with the lady behind the counter.

Gemma, a charming young waitress whose middle name could have been courtesy, informed us that Banks's bitter was available from the bar, but as there was no mild we decided to choose from the extensive wine list.

Having ordered a bottle of rose, we were slightly perplexed to be presented with a bottle of white Lamberti pinot grigio. I have no doubt that had we pointed this out it would have been rectified, but it was a very pleasant tipple, a vibrant balance of lime and almond flavours with a fruity nose.

It was also served in some of the most elegant cut glasses I have seen in a restaurant, beautifully crafted but with a modern design.

Choosing the food proved harder than usual, with the menu offering a variety of options which, at least to my humble palate, seemed equally tempting. The roast best end of lamb in honey and lamb sounded rather lush, as did the fillet steak stuffed with stilton, wrapped in bacon and cooked in red wine sauce, but in the end it boiled down to the pork loin in apple and cider sauce, or the sirloin with crushed black pepper and brandy sauce.

While my dining partner quickly settled on the grilled salmon steak cooked in lemon butter, I was still unable to make up my mind, and found myself seeking the advice of the waitress. Gemma told me the sirloin was a little special, and regular readers will know I don't take much persuading when it comes to beef.

And special it was. The steak was quite tender for a sirloin, without being too fatty, and it had been nicely cooked. It was accompanied by generous helpings of vegetables, and the hand-cut chips were crisp and golden.

The sauce was quite thin in texture, and given that the peppers were crushed, it made for a very spicy flavour. My companion said the salmon was excellent, and said lemon butter gave it quite a zesty flavour.

For afters I tried the dark and white chocolate terrine, which made for a pleasantly light finish to the meal, with a few dark cherries to add a dash of extra flavour.

The Sun & Slipper proved to be something of a little gem, which goes the extra mile to get things right. There are plenty of places which provide a decent meal and a pleasant atmosphere, but it is the details, like the beautiful wine glasses, the understated elegance of the dining room, and the impeccable service which makes The Sun and Slipper a little bit special.

That said, it comes at a price. The total bill was £64.80, although it should be pointed out that did include a bottle of wine, and choosing from the fixed price menu would have kept the cost of two courses to £12.95 a head.

If there is one thing that saddened me, it was that there were not more people experiencing the delights of this charming little pub. They are really missing out, and places like this deserve our support.

You will certainly be assured of a warm welcome. The St Bernard awaits.

ADDRESS:

The Sun & Slipper, Mamble, near Bewdley DY14 9JL

Tel: 01299 832018