Bacchus Bar, Birmingham

Bacchus - the Greek god of wine and intoxication. A man after my own heart, writes our mystery meal reviewer, The Insider.

Surely a place named after such a raucous chap would be some sort of den of iniquity? In search of a bit of fun on a brisk Sunday afternoon in January, a friend and I went to find out.

The Bacchus Bar in Birmingham is situated under the Burlington Hotel just off bustling New Street, in the Burlington Arcade.

Pretty well hidden, a sweeping spiral staircase leads you down into this underground lair. Unless you knew about this place, it's unlikely you'd wander in aimlessly.

Walking in is like stepping back several hundreds – if not thousands - of years into an ancient world. Frescoes featuring half naked entwined bodies adorn the walls and ceilings, alongside busts of several serious-looking fellows placed majestically on plinths.

Pottery urns line the room with autumn-coloured plants and fruits spilling out from various ledges. There's even an entire suit of armour standing in one corner.

We took a seat next to a large-breasted naked beauty, the subject of a huge wall painting you understand, and took in our surroundings.

It's hard to believe this place is just a few minutes walk from grey, soulless New Street Station. It's a fascinating sight to behold, and a cosy one at that. There's all kinds of nooks and crannies to lose yourself in, with plenty of large comfortable seats to sink into in secluded corners.

Around us were two weary ladies laden down with several bags of shopping, enjoying a post-sales-ambush glass of wine. A group of university pals regaled tales of their New Year's Eve antics, while a family which I overheard were visiting their daughter and her boyfriend, whom had recently moved to the city, were making several trips to the bar.

The Bacchus Bar is a 'Classic Pub', a brand dreamt up by brewery Mitchells and Butlers. When I found out it was effectively a chain pub, it lost a little bit of the magic to be honest.

According to the Classic Pubs' website, they are a "collection of carefully selected town and city centre hostelries all of which are overflowing with personality, character and pride". They've also got "a wonderful history and heritage" and boast a "magnificent setting".

Some friends of mine had recommended this place to me having spent a couple of hours here easing the aches and pains that were the result of six hours of solid Christmas shopping.

"I was prepared to go to any old spit-and sawdust pub I was so tired," one told me. "But the Bacchus Bar was the perfect place to forget about the stresses of queueing for tills and changing rooms. I felt like I was in a different world."

Feeling like dwarves in our huge upholstered chairs, we knew exactly what she meant.

There was no table service today – an Egyptian themed side room where waitress service appears to be de rigueur was roped off – so up one went to the bar. There's an extensive drinks selection, with more than a dozen wines and seasonal ales, which have recently included Ryedale Winter's Tale and Cropton Britannia.

There was just one man behind the bar, who was busily working his way through the visiting family's latest order. A couple more relatives appeared from nowhere and added to the already lengthy list – which didn't bother me as I was next in line, but I watched the two gentlemen waiting next to me bristle as the order grew larger.

I was served within five minutes by the lone barman, who was very polite and despite his growing workload still found time to ask "handle or straight?" when pouring a pint, but I reckoned the chaps after me may have been waiting for up to 15 minutes – not really acceptable at 3pm in a city centre pub on a Sunday that's not even half full.

The menu features largely traditional pub grub, with the option of Sunday roasts. There's also a large range of pies, with seasonal variations that included venison, or the rich-sounding turkey, stilton and port. Other options including sharing platters, sandwiches and light bites.

We nibbled on nachos drizzled with sour cream, salsa and guacamole and chicken and chorizo skewers before moving on to our rather hefty mains.

My wild mushroom and pea risotto, with extra chicken, was a steaming hot bowl of loveliness. With melt-in-the-mouth rice, shallots and a splash of white wine, it also came with a side order of garlic ciabatta bread. I did however have a bit of lunch envy eyeing up my pal's pork belly. Served on a bed of crushed potatoes and topped with wilted salad, he said it was divine - on the right side of salty and wonderfully rich but not heavy either.

It was a very enjoyable and hearty meal, the perfect winter warmer. Neither did it have the blandness characteristic of some chain pub food. He had a pint of Stella, me a large glass of Sauvignon Blanc, and the bill came to a very reasonable £34.

We both agreed the Bacchus Bar was one we would return to very soon, but felt that there was a real need for its bosses not to become complacent.

It's unique, unusual and cosy and that will continue to attract customers. But a couple more staff – and a little more attentiveness from them while you're eating – would not go amiss.

Nevertheless, it's the perfect antidote to bustling Brum. Just moments away from heaving shops, persistent charity canvassers and determined catalogue reps is this oasis of calm.

It's also a lively spot at night, where young and old pay homage to old Bacchus and his love of vino. The man, however intoxicated, would surely be proud.

ADDRESS

Bacchus Bar, Burlington Arcade, New Street, Birmingham B2 4JH