Travel review: Hotel Felix, Cambridge

An opulent roof-top hot tub was ruled out of bounds, snow stung our eyes and we nearly phoned down to reception for thermals.

But this was July, so everything was going to be marvellous. Well, remember Furnace Friday? It had nothing on the newly dubbed Sweltering Sunday and Melting Monday we encountered on our two-day visit to Cambridge.

Thank heavens then for the sumptuous Hotel Felix just outside the city, which offered us a welcome haven in the blistering heat of our country at its hottest.

Set in beautiful gardens of leafy shrubs and mature flower beds, it didn’t matter that the lack of rain had turned the lawn from a rich deep green to a pale gold – it was our refreshing corner of England.

There were no crowds with cameras, no jostling for the best views, no bicycle bells and no need for a sunhat or constant slurps of water.

Instead, the summer house and terrace were alive with the happy cries of families at play. More than one big celebration was being held that first afternoon, as birthday balloons and whoops of delight attested.

Indeed, Hotel Felix seems as popular with family parties as it is with people travelling for business and tourists from all over the world.

All are treated to the same level of dedicated service and comfort – so enjoyed that Sunday afternoon.

Superb air-conditioning, blinds and cool flooring added to the charm of our spacious king-sized room, with chairs aplenty – just right for a sit-down and a sift through a wealth of tourist brochures trying to lure us outside again.

But, we weren’t going anywhere. The airy Graffiti restaurant and its Processo aperitifs were beckoning. And what a find.

We sat at a corner table, eyes one minute on dancing butterflies in the evening garden and the next on some quite stunning artworks on the eaterie’s walls.

Paintings, photos and sculptures adorn the room and feature throughout the rest of the hotel too.With the burgundy and silver-grey decor, heightened by candle light, they combine to create a rather select dining experience.

The menu is extensive and draws in non-residents. I chose house-cured salmon gravadlax, citrus crème fraîche, avocado mousse and young herbs which was tangy and beautifully presented.

Partner Ian fell for the pressed tomato terrine, burrata, sourdough croutons, olive tapenade and gazpacho sorbet, which blended to provide a true kick.

For the main course Ian was tempted by roast best end of lamb, braised shoulder and feta boulangere potatoes with spiced aubergine and baby spinach. HIs face said it all. Bliss.

I chose pancetta wrapped tenderloin of pork, roasted hispi cabbage, taramasalata and summer vegetables a la Grecque, which was a tasty twist on an old English favourite. Icecream and a most delicious passion fruit tart, dark chocolate sorbet, vanilla mascarpone and honeycomb rounded off the meal, all served by with friendliness and efficiency.

Cool sheets and windows thrown open onto the tree-lined garden made for a refreshing sleep.

Next morning hearty breakfasts and a wonderfully helpful reception staff had us up and ready to catch a bus down into the city centre. While it was only a 20-minute walk, the 9.30am sun was already out so, armed with hats and buckets of sun block we decided the best way to stay the city and keep our cool was with a hop-on, hop-off bus tour – only with no hopping. We hauled ourselves up onto the top deck at Silver Street and enjoyed a fascinating and leisurely insight into this treasured city.

With a full commentary playing, the bus snaked around the hallowed college and museums before going slightly out of town to the American Cemetery and Memorial. We made a note of all the sights we would like to return to on a November day with a little less weather.

Our last but one stop was to the Scudamore’s Punting Company, where thanks to the Hotel Felix, a free 45-minute trip along the River Cam can be enjoyed.

Take a bow George Parsons, whose entertaining talk on the city was so well delivered and knowledgeable we assumed he was a Cambridge history. Not at all, George, is a second year student at Southampton but easily out-punted and bullet-pointed his rivals.

One of the most stunning sights spotted from the river was the facade of King’s College which seemed to loom up out of the bank and demand we visit. To be at the home of the famous Festival of Nine Lessons and Carols on Christmas Eve was magnificent. To find out Kings also has on display The Adoration of the Magi by Rubens was heaven.

It seemed a suitable point to end our tour and return to the Felix, our little leafy paradise.