Express & Star

Suree Coates: It might be cold outside but it's still hot in my kitchen

TS Elliot described April as being the cruellest month. In the opening line of The Waste Land, the poet selected that above all others.

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I disagree. January is the cruellest month. Every chef knows that.

The fat of December is followed by the lean of January. Feast is followed by famine.

People are exhausted after Christmas. They've partied hard, celebrated with friends and made merry. January is time for what economists call 'the natural correction'.

It's the time for fastening belts, tightening purse strings and getting back on track.

And if you're a restaurateur, that means one simple thing: the phone stops ringing.

At least, it ought to. That's the theory.

But here at the King and Thai we're still busy. And we're grateful to our many loyal customers for that. We're looking forward to our busiest January ever.

It seems that in January, instead of staying away, people go out more than ever. The weather's cold, there's nothing much on TV and they need something to look forward to. And that usually means going out for dinner.

When chefs describe January as being the cruellest month, they're not just referring to the number of people booking tables. They're also referring to nature's larder.

In April, seasonal ingredients peak like soufflés. From crab to watercress, wild morels to spring lamb; it's a season of abundance. Summer brings broad beans, mackerel, peas, raspberries, strawberries and tomatoes. Autumn offers damsons, figs, oysters, plums and pumpkins, as well as aubergines, apples and beetroots.

January seems to suffer in contrast. But dig a little deeper and you'll find plenty of new season ingredients to enjoy. Parsnips and pheasant, salsify and satsumas, clams and clementines – all are in plentiful supply.

Thai cooking depends on there being plenty of fresh herbs and spices – as well as vegetables, meat and fish. In the modern era, our store cupboard is always brimful of the ingredients that we need. From fragrant basil to punchy chilli, from sour tamarind to earthy coriander, all are readily available.

It's been two remarkable years. In 2012 I was named the UK's best Thai chef and then last year I went one better when I was named the UK's Best Curry Chef, beating cooks from China, India, Bangladesh and Thailand. I also published my first book, Cook Thai.

So far from January being the cruellest month, it's actually the most exciting. We're looking forward to new challenges and new achievements as we head into 2014.

* Suree Coates is chef-patron of the King And Thai, Broseley. Her debut book is available at www.amazon.co.uk, priced £12.50.

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