No. 5 Gaol Mews: Pretty fantastic for gaol food

"Do you know where No. 5 Gaol Mews is?," we asked the confused-looking customer, who clearly had no comprehension of what we were talking about.

"Dunno, I think it might be on the traffic island," he replied unconvincingly. It wasn't.

So we tried again. It's irrational, I know, but there is something distinctly uncomfortable about pulling over in a car in a dimly lit street outside a prison to ask a lady passer-by for directions.

Still, she was helpful, and she did know where we meant. Yes, this restaurant which had been highly recommended by a colleague, did exist after all.

Tucked away in quite a pretty, narrow passage across the road from HMP Stafford, No. 5 is not the easiest of places to find, and apparently we weren't alone in our difficulty.

"We're Stafford's best-kept secret," remarked the cheery woman on the front counter, explaining that many first-time visitors have difficulty finding it.

Cosy and intimate is probably the best way to describe the small, bistro-style ground floor. The light, rustic tables, the clay-tiled floor, the dresser in the corner managed to convey an ambience that is both stylish but homely. Each table is laid with a small tealight candle in a pot and a flower in a vase, providing just the right amount of adornment, without laying it on too thick. There are only half a dozen or so tables downstairs, creating a friendly, personal ambience, although at busier times a larger room upstairs, with a feature beam ceiling, is also used.

Handing us our menus, the woman who had greeted us on arrival went to great pains to explain how the chef owned the restaurant, and that he was personally responsible for everything on the menu.

"He cooks everything here, nothing is brought in," she added, just to drive the point home. And that's always a good start. After all, the whole point of eating out is surely being able to enjoy the imagination and skill of a good chef, and the menu we had just been handed looked very promising indeed.

Sadly, the slow-roasted rump of lamb with a mint and herb crust was not available, but there was still plenty of other choices to tempt the tastebuds.

The Tournedos Rossini, a fillet steak served on a crouton, with a home-made chicken liver parfait in a rich madeira glaze, was said to be a speciality of chef Simon Cotterill, while the Dorchester-style fillet – served in a style of peppercorn sauce originating from the famous London landmark hotel – also sounded tantalising. And while the rump of lamb might have been off the menu, there was still an option of lamb cooked three different ways. Something for everybody, really. First thing first, though and we decided to look at the wine list. When you come to a place like this, there's something to be said for the house wine. I know some people turn their noses up, perhaps thinking that it shows a lack of knowledge or adventure, but a good restaurant recognises that the choice of house wine also sets the standard for what is to follow. Many restaurants take great pride in their choice of house wine.

In the end, though, I succumbed to the temptation of a longstanding weakness of mine – fruity sauvignon blanc wines, from the chalky mountains of the Marlborough region of New Zealand. Yes, I know it is foolish to choose the wine before the food, and yes I know the old rule of 'red meat, red wine', but if a fruity white wine makes me happy, a fruity white wine is what I'm having.

Mirror Lake is a label I have never come across before, and it turned out to be quite an enigma. Extremely fruity on the nose, it is not the usual easy-quaffing sauvignon you normally get from this region, but is quite complex and understated in flavour. Bone dry, with a fresh yet gentle palate, it is far more subtle than the aroma would lead you to believe. Definitely an interesting choice.

If that's not your thing, there are 19 other wines to choose from with a selection from both old and new-worlds. Many of the wines are from lesser-known vineyards. Or if you fancy a bit of fizz, there is the very good Lanson Black Label champagne at a pretty reasonable £37 a bottle.

Anyway, back to the food. We had been supplied with some excellent Mediterranean and honey-baked bread on arrival, and decided that a starter wouldn't be necessary.

My first choice would probably have been the fillet steak in the Dorchester-style pepper sauce, but my girlfriend had similar ideas, and being a gentleman I naturally deferred. Second choice would probably have been the lamb rump, but since that was off the menu, I plumped for the Calvados pork fillet.

My only regret was that this had not been my first choice, and it is hard to imagine how it could have been much better. The medallions of pork were as soft and tender as I've ever had, and beautifully presented on a small bed of mashed potato, with delicate slices of apple adding that special touch. But the thing which really made it stand out was the truly wonderful apple, brandy and cream sauce. It would have been easy to have overdone the apples and make it too sweet, or to have used too much brandy and make it overpowering, but chef Cotterill managed to get the balance exactly right, with the contrasting flavours perfectly bringing out the taste of the pork.

The fillet steak was also excellent, tender and perfectly cooked. The Dorchester sauce was mild in flavour, and the girlfriend said she would actually have liked something a little spicier. All down to personal preference, I guess.

What most people will agree on was that there were very generous helpings of beautifully cooked vegetables, and the side portion of home-made chips which we ordered was the icing on the cake – beautifully crisp and dangerously moreish.

The meal also came in little more than 20 minutes, disproving the myth that if you want freshly cooked food you have to wait all night for the privilege.

For afters we both went for something a little out of the ordinary; I chose the Rolo cheesecake, while the girlfriend went for a Guinness-and-chocolate pudding. Both were delightful, although the Rolo cheesecake is only for those with a very sweet tooth.

After the meal, chef Simon Cotterill came out of the kitchen to chat with each of the guests, asking us if we had enjoyed our meal and what had brought us to his restaurant.

It turned out that the woman who had been waiting on us for most of the evening was his wife, and this was very much a family-run business.

The total bill was £74.10, which I thought very reasonable for such lovely food delivered with such a friendly, personal touch.

You've probably gathered that I quite liked this place. Indeed, I was tempted to give it the full five stars, but there were just a few very small gripes which have made be hold back.

It was initially felt a little cold when we arrived, and I found the chair a bit too low for comfort – and at a shade over 6ft, I think I am a fairly average-sized fellow.

That said when your third-choice dish turns out to be the best meal you have had in ages, they must be doing something right. We travelled a fair way to experience the charms of No. 5 Gaol Mews, but would seriously consider returning again.

And if you live near this intriguingly named restaurant and still do not know where it is, I suggest you familiarise yourself with it pretty quickly. It would be a crime to miss out.

By Mark Andrews