The Queens, Belbroughton

Ever since I was a kid, I've been fascinated by Belbroughton. I can't really think of any other explanation for this other than it used to have a fancy dress hire shop my parents would frequent when they had a party to go to.

I don't know if this place still exists but, at the time, it felt like such an occasion to hop in the car and drive all the way from Redditch to this cavernous place, with rails upon rails of musty-smelling costumes.

Remember folks, this was the 1980s, I was only nine and this was most definitely more fun than a Saturday afternoon spent playing Fuzzy Felt while watching Knight Rider then Bullseye.

This place was something special.

Step into one of the scruffy changing rooms, draw the curtain and be transported to a new world. Be a pirate, a Pink Lady, a lady in waiting . . . it was all within reach thanks to a talc-infested wig or an eye patch.

For me, Belbroughton was the land where Mr Benn's magical life became a reality; therefore some pretty hallowed turf.

Later, when I was a cub reporter at the Bromsgrove Advertiser, I returned to Belbroughton for the annual scarecrow festival, cue 'village has something to crow about' headlines, plus the occasional riveting parish council meeting. I also learned that it was the home of TV anchorman Bob Warman. I simply didn't think this place could get any more special.

That was until I returned to the picturesque village recently to eat at The Queens.

The thing is, I was pretty confident of a good meal before I'd even stepped over the threshold. Because despite its simple country pub façade The Queens is the current home of one exceptional chef. A chef I once interviewed when I was a trainee reporter after he'd been awarded his first Michelin star for his cooking at Edmunds in Henley-in-Arden.

I ate a superb meal there, and then again when the restaurant moved to BrindleyPlace, Birmingham.

Sadly, Andy Water's relationship with the owners of Edmunds, Birmingham, broke down a year ago and he moved on to The Queens, which he has been running to great acclaim, being recently awarded a coveted Bib Gourmand, recognising good food at affordable prices.

However, Andy is soon on his way back to the second city where he plans to set up Waters on the Square in Edgbaston.

But for now he's at The Queens, a rustic 16th century pub in the heart of the village on Queens Hill. It's a cosy, traditional little place with a warm welcome and sunny staff.

Before we'd even got inside our mouths were watering at the scent of roast dinners hanging heavy in the air like the perfume of an expensive woman.

We were seated at a dark mahogany table in the corner of the room next to a window, which afforded us marvellous views of the dark and stormy skies outside. It was the perfect place to hibernate.

Despite the fairly traditional dining room, the food leaving the kitchen was a league above; presentation was more Michelin star than cheap as chips.

And so we cast our eyes over the menu while enjoying some soft drinks from the bar. Starters included soup of the day with local bread, chicken terrine, and parma ham with beetroot, while roast sirloin of beef with red wine jus, Cornish rump of lamb and hake were some of the main course options.

It all sounded tempting but, ruled by the rumbles of our tummies, we all made our choices quickly.

I'd have happily nibbled on some bread but none arrived, it's not that sort of place, and I appreciated the gaping hole in my appetite. I'm such a glutton for the bread basket I'm often fit to burst before the starters even surface.

So I was delighted – and ravenous – when my pea, feta and sunblush tomato salad arrived. It was a real feast for the eyes; the cubes of salty white feta dazzling against the green of the peas and concentrated red of the tomatoes. It was garnished with pea shoots and balsamic syrup. If I had to write a book about this dish it'd probably be called Eats, Pea Shoots and Leaves (happy) for it was a well-balanced dish; sweet, salty, creamy and crunchy. It wasn't mind-blowing but it was a clean and well-conceived dish I'd happily eat again.

My dining companions were impressed with their dishes of cream of tomato soup with Kinver village bakery bread, and pan-fried mackerel.

I was particularly taken with the soup which had a deep flavour far beyond its humble origins. It wasn't overly creamy either – which I liked – utilising the richness of the fruit rather than disguising it.

The oily fish had a delicately smoky flavour offset by the creaminess of the slithers of new potato and more sweet sunblush tomatoes. It was a revelation.

Starters were eaten as swiftly as they were ordered, and we moved on to the main event.

Despite always being adamant I'll order a Sunday roast whenever I eat out on the Sabbath, something always gets in the way and on this occasion it was the hake. Having seen the wedge of white fish with silvery skin delivered to a nearby diner I just couldn't resist.

And I was not disappointed for this hunk of protein was so preciesly cooked and worked effortlessly well with the rustic tomato, green olive and red pepper sauce.

Although the skin was not crisp, it slipped off easily to reveal glistening fish which was a joy to eat. The sauce had exceptional depth of flavour – a real taste of a sweet Mediterannean summer on this gloomy day – while the olives were just salty enough. The other two stuck with tradition opting for the pork loin with baked apple and stuffing, arriving with bowls of fresh vegetables.

Both said the meat was mouth-wateringly tender although they'd have prefered more crunch and punch to the sage stuffing.

The vegetables were a real treat; a bowl of carrots, peas and mangetout only lightly cooked to preserve colour, flavour and bite. Cauliflower cheese was lapped up as were the buttered new potatoes.

The only disappointment, and it's quite a crucial one, was the roasties which didn't taste freshly cooked, lacked a lovely crisp shell and were bland inside. It was such a shame, as the rest of the veg was gold standard.

Portions were generous but not overwhelming so we happily ordered puds.

The traditionalist behind the soup-roast order naturally chose the apple and raisin crumble with creamy custard, while my other friend opted for the roasted peach with biscuit topping.

Both predicted I'd go for the fresh figs, which I did, and gladly so as they were a sublime dessert. The fruit was juicy, elevated to a higher level with a walnut cream, toffee sauce and some morsels of chewy dried figs.

The crumble topping was delicious, crunchy and not too stodgy while the apples were gloriously gooey basking in brown sugar.

The roasted peach was also enjoyable, the soft flesh of the fruit texturised with the crumbly bisicuit topping.

Our bill, including five soft drinks and a coffee, came to about £75, which we felt perfectly reasonable for the quality of food on offer, particularly when most chain carveries charge £13 for one course on Sundays.

Service is also worth a mention as it was effortless; welcoming without being suffocating. The waiting staff were polite and relaxed, yet efficient. It was the ideal combination for the type of establishment.

Andy Waters has always offered great value food and set menus wherever he goes, and this is no exception. Twenty one pounds for three top-notch courses is more than reasonable and is just one more reason why my long-standing love affair with Belbroughton will continue.

Now where's that fancy dress shop?

ADDRESS

• The Queens, Queens Hill, Belbroughton DY9 0DU

• Tel: 01562 730276

• Web: www.thequeensbelbroughton.co.uk