Bilash, Cheapside, Wolverhampton
It's where politicians, footballers and rock stars go to spice up their lives. But does Bilash live up to its decades of hype?

For years, people have wandered past that distinctive yellow shell, peered in through the huge glass window and thought "one day".
In the fleeting seconds they pass by, they catch glimpses of the lucky few who have made it inside, clinking their glasses, licking their lips and scraping up every last morsel of food from their plates.
After all, Bilash has something of a formidable reputation. Not only is it the best restaurant in Wolverhampton by a Black Country mile, it is the place politicians come to plot, footballers come to relax and rock stars and comedians are drawn to from the Civic.
But there is also a generally held belief that it's "too pricey for the likes of us". All this talk of celebrities and the Michelin Guide has us normal folk thinking it's a curry house too far. We therefore continue to dream as we stroll past it and into some nondescript pub for a two-for-one deal. However, shout it from the rooftops, that famous yellow doorway is well and truly open to all.
Yes, there are tiger prawns and lobster on the menu if you've got the cash to flash (the most expensive main is £28.90 and some of the wine is "price on application", never a good sign) but there are also plenty of reasonably priced dishes and deals on offer. Couples can enjoy poppadoms, starters, mains, coffees and a bottle of plonk on Mondays and Tuesdays for just £60 and the cheapest main course on the a la carte menu is under £10.
But the food here is so good – so lip-smackingly, mind-blowingly good – it's best to go when you've got some cash in your pocket and can really go for it.
When I finally made it inside Bilash after decades of wanting and wishing, all but pressing my nose up against the window, I was not disappointed.
"May I take your coat, Madam?" the waiter asked. "A gin and tonic, Madam? Or a glass of champagne perhaps?"