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Grasmere, Lake District - travel review

Tarn, now there’s a word I haven’t used for some time. Not since studying for geography O-level back in the 1980s.

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A view across the water at Grasmere. Picture by Michelle Tomlinson

“An ampitheatre-like mountain lake created by a glacier”, that’s a tarn. But as we climbed the brisk ascent to the stunning Easedale Tarn, the days of fretting about contour lines and rock formations couldn’t have been further from our thoughts.

William Wordsworth once described the Lake District village of Grasmere as “the loveliest spot that man hath ever found”. And as we headed out of the village, up the splendidly named Sour Milk Gill towards the aforementioned tarn, it seemed very hard to disagree.

The weather helped, of course. Bracing, certainly, but as the glorious winter sunshine reflected off the glittering waterfall, with the snow-capped peaks in the distance behind, it was hard not to feel at one with the world.

Wordsworth is Grasmere’s most famous son, but it is another famous writer to hail from the Lake District who is putting the area in the spotlight at the moment.

The new Peter Rabbit movie, which opens at cinemas this week, makes extensive use of Cumbria’s stunning landscapes in its location filming. Those familiar with the area will easily recognise Crescent Road in Windermere village, just up the hill from England’s largest natural lake. But closer inspection also reveals the quaint grey-stone buildings of Ambleside – a small market town between Windermere and Grasmere – are also featured.

It is not hard to see why Ambleside, with its enchanting Victorian shops on the hillside, and its 17th century Bridge House, was chosen as a filming location. Indeed, it is only too easy to while away a sunny day, well, ambling along its winding streets, nipping in and out the assorted bakeries, confectioners and book shops

But the big draw for Beatrix Potter fans is undoubtedly at Bowness-on-Windermere, the sprawling lakeside tourist hotspot, where you will find The World Of Beatrix Potter. This attraction, made up of a network of three-dimensional models of the author’s best-loved characters, tell the story of how her books were inspired by her childhood visits to the Lakes.

Her debut story, The Tale of Peter Rabbit, was actually a letter to a poorly five-year-old boy she wrote in 1893, but when she self-published it eight years later, it sold like hot cakes. This success finally allowed her to buy a farm in Sawrey, near Hawkshead, which would become the setting for many of the novels that followed, including the tales of Tom Kitten and Jemima Puddle-Duck.

Now owned by the National Trust, Hill Top House is a popular attraction that has been preserved close to how it was in Potter’s Day.

For a real essence of the Lakes, though, it is hard to go wrong with Grasmere, where we spent the morning walking around the lake which gives the village its name, and then the afternoon on the long climb to Easedale.

The four-star Wordsworth Hotel, next to the writer’s home, is the perfect place to relax after a brisk walk around the lakes, be it with afternoon tea in the conservatory, or reclining in the armchairs around the roaring log fire. There is also a spa with pools, sauna and whirlpool bath, and an excellent bar.

The two AA rosette Signature restaurant offers an excellent four-course menu in plush surroundings with an excellent wine list, but we opted for the more rustic Dove Bistro, which shares the same kitchen, and serves up a mean steak with home-made chips and a choice of local ales.

Stunning views, great food, beautiful beers – plus a bit of sunshine and the famous Grasmere gingerbread. What more can you ask for? That’s what you call a fairytale ending.