Express & Star

Fulfilling a childhood dream on African cruise

Chris Hutchinson discovers exotic islands, wonders of Africa and the Zulus

Published
Zulus in traditional regalia on the authentic Dumazulu encampment in South Africa

The first film I saw in cinemascope as a young boy was called Shaka. It told of the rise of a boy warrior who became King of the legendary Zulu tribe, ever since I’ve had an ambition to visit Africa.

Looking through a number of holiday brochures, I read that Fred. Olsen Cruise Lines’ ship Boudicca, was visiting South Africa. One of their shore tours would allow us to spend a day on an authentic Zulu encampment and birthplace of Shaka. It totally captured my imagination.

Boudicca would also be visiting exotic Indian Ocean islands of Mauritius and Reunion, in addition Mozambique. We joined Boudicca in Port Louis, Mauritius. Our first tour took us through lush countryside to Charmarel National Park. Here we gazed at the beauty of the Charmarel waterfall cascading from jagged mountains, accompanied by exotic birdsong.

Here also is the area of the seven-coloured earth, a rainbow on the ground, a spectacular sight created through decomposing minerals over centuries, forming dunes with colours ranging from red to brown and blue to violet.

In contrast, we meandered through Caudan waterfront, an atmospheric cultural area where we enjoyed a two-course lunch with local beer at the Arabia restaurant for just £7 pp. Then we were entertained by Mauritian musicians and dancers in traditional dress.

Overnight sailing brought us into French Reunion Island. A highlight was a journey to Piton Maido – over 2,000 metres high, through subtropical forests with hedgerows ablaze with fuchsia and hydrangeas. We paused at La Petite France, observing how geranium leaves are turned into an essence used in perfume making. At St. Denis you absorb a little part of France in the Indian Ocean.

During Boudicca’s three days of sailing, we were impressed with the crew’s warm personalities, eagerness to please, and the intimacy of the smaller ship. The ship’s activities cater for all, I settled for soaking up the sun with a good book relaxing under a bright blue sky, with the company of dolphins and flying fish skimming the ocean.

Our African adventure started in Maputo Mozambique, on our ‘must do’ list was to visit an African market. Browsing Feima market, we found an abundance of bargains, ranging from handmade crafts to beautiful coloured clothes, and lots in between. We then visited the CFM Railway station which was built in 1908 and voted the third most beautiful in the world. It is now a museum. We strolled around Independent Square, where we saw the Iron House, a unique architectural design by a friend of Gustave Eiffal.

My imagination was running high as we sailed into Richards Bay, South Africa, time to visit the authentic Dumazulu encampment. On arrival we were greeted by the Chief in full regalia. Our Zulu guide took us through a number of their cultures including Zulu warrior’s combat and pre marital customs. Bone throwing is still practised to tell the future, and the medicine man, a hereditary position, is still revered as a healer. Our fascinating Zulu experience concluded with a wedding ceremony. Visiting the area where the legendary King Shaka lived, exceeded all expectations.

A relaxing day at sea gave us the opportunity to reflect and enjoy Boudicca’s amenities. Evenings were another highlight, choosing from a menu of mouth-watering options, then to the theatre to watch an enjoyable show.

We berthed in Port Elizabeth, and journeyed to Pumba Private Game Reserve, boarding a 4x4 and set off on our adventure. First it was a herd of antelopes and warthogs grazing together, then zebra. We met Nomathemba, a rare white lioness sleeping in the shade, stopping only a few feet away marvelling at this magnificent creature. We paused at a stream and ranger Daniel pointed out different birds on our right-hand side. I happened to glance in front, and there it was– a huge bull elephant only a few yards away. A thrilling experience!

Table Mountain stands imposing as it welcomes you to Cape Town. The city tour captures its highlights including its diverse architecture from colonial times to modern designs. Final destination was the Cape of Good Hope. Our coastal journey took us through quaint fishing villages, small townships and vineyards. At Cape Peak, we boarded a funicular taking us to the summit, to view this breathtaking dramatic coast line. Then on to the Penguin colony.

This itinerary was exciting, stimulating and memorable. I can see why Fred. Olsen Cruise Lines has been awarded the prestigious ‘Itineraries of the Year Award’ for the third consecutive year.