Rustic charm of a working farm
Paul Naylor discovers a picturesque destination in North Wales
As a child, the majority of my summer holidays took place in North Wales, Barmouth being one favourite, but more often than not Rhyl.
Now, far be it for me to criticise such a traditional holiday destination, but Rhyl is not going to appeal to the discerning traveller. Well it isn't.
It is only when I got older that I realised just how varied, and indeed beautiful, North Wales actually is.
So rather than spending a week in a side street boarding house in a familiar seaside town, I had the pleasure of staying in a lovely, quirky rural property managed by independent letting agency Dioni Holiday Cottages.
The online business has a selection of premier self-catering properties across North Wales, with lets available in Aberdovey, Caernarfon, Criccieth and many more locations, the latest being some spectacular cottages in Snowdonia.
Established in 2010, the venture was set up by Gwion Llwyd who operates from the family farm near Harlech, and it was here that I spent a short break to see if I could shake off my enduring childhood memories.
Based on Gwion's farm, in Dyffryn Ardudwy, the pretty barn conversion I stayed in is known as Nant – brook or spring in Welsh – referring to the small brook that runs past this cottage.
The two bedroom self catering barn conversion is nicely furnished and decorated. Local craftsmen rebuilt an old disused barn, with materials including natural slate tiles on its cosy heated floor. Just as well, for my visit took place on a particularly windy and rain-soaked weekend. But it didn't matter. The holiday let is picturesque in all weather conditions, with amazing views over a stunning landscape.
The stone cottage comprises a ground floor twin bedroom in addition to a kingsize double in the 'grogloft' or eves of the barn if you prefer.
In the ground floor living area, a small, modern kitchen includes a combination oven, hob and dishwasher.
In better weather than I experienced, oak folding doors spanning the south facing gable end of the cottage can be opened up to make the most of the view of the fields and mountains beyond.
The underfloor heating provides more than enough heat, but a cast iron log burner helps to add to the homely atmosphere.
Staying on the farm gives you a chance to get involved in feeding the pigs, collecting chicken eggs and meeting the ducks.
Great views are afforded in every direction, with the Cambrian Coastline and its sandy beaches a mile to the west, Snowdon to the north and rugged Rhinnog Mountains behind the cottage to the east.
In normal circumstances, I would have explored further than the village and nearby coast, but trust me when I tell you it was a very, very rainy few days.
Of course, on a longer stay, at a warmer time of year, the holiday let would make a brilliant base to explore Harlech, just a few miles up the road. Here, the castle attraction – which has been lovingly nurtured in recent times – is an obvious, yet must, see.
Along with partner Mandy, I made my way along the winding country lanes to the village centre of Dyffryn Ardudwy.
Taking a mental note to return to the cafe for a warming meal, we made our way to the beach. It is a fair old trek, which on a sunny day would be most pleasant. With legs soaked to the bone, it was slightly less so, but I am a professional, so soldiered on.
Pausing – briefly – at the beach, we turned and made our way back to the village and its quaint cafe.
Dripping wet, we sat and awaited. Conversation flowed all around, yet among the local accents, one stood out. Proprietor of Caffi Hen Crydd, Ellie Wilkes, originates from Bentley, Walsall.
With my teeth chattering, it was nice to hear a familiar tone. We chatted for a while and I explained why I was in the area – and out and about in such awful conditions. It proved to be a wise move bumping into Ellie, and not just because of the great breakfast. More on that in a bit.
Ellie recommended the nearby hotel for a pint or three.
Gwesty Ael-y-Bryn Hotel, bar and restaurant is a small private hotel set in an elevated position. Its crackling fires and real ales were just the ticket.
As the rain continued to lash down, we passed the time playing pool and darts waiting for the weather to abate. Alas, it did not.
The dark night had set in, and armed with torches we ventured out, hoping that the walk back – up hill – would be a quick one. Soaked through, we popped into the village Spar shop to pick up some essentials for the evening.
Basket in one hand, pasta in the other, I felt a tap on my shoulder.
It was Ellie from the cafe.
"When you've finished in here I will be outside in the car," she said.
"I'll nip you both back."
A kind gesture that was indeed most welcome.
Returning to Nant, showered and ready for a good kip we climbed the stairs into the grogloft, thankful for the kindness of a stranger who had spotted us in our hour of need. Thanks Ellie. What a star.
Travel Facts
Dioni has holiday cottages throughout North Wales. See the website www.dioni.co.uk for a wide selection of properties and availability. Call 01341 247200 or visit the website www.dioni.co.uk