Emerging cities delight explorer

Even the enthusiasm of our excellent guide couldn't prepare us for the beauty inside Boyana Church, a Unesco World Heritage site on the outskirts of Bulgaria's capital Sofia.

The medieval church is so tiny that only a handful of people can visit at a time. Religious frescoes cover the walls and ceilings in a multitude of colours – some dating back to 1259 – and photography is strictly forbidden. Bullet holes on the entry door are a sombre reminder of how close Bulgaria was to losing this treasure which pre-dates the Renaissance by at least 100 years.

It was our first stop on a whirlwind four-day tour that also took us to Bucharest in Romania, less than an hour away by air.

Sofia is ideal for a relaxed weekend getaway. It's only 20 minutes' drive from the airport and is a city full of surprises. It was fascinating to see manually controlled traffic lights on the corners of smart shopping streets and men playing chess in the park. The magnificent churches and grand early 20th century buildings contrast dramatically with Eastern Bloc-style architecture, while modern bars and restaurants add a cool vibe.

We stopped for a coffee in stylish Cafe Corso, where floor to ceiling glass windows upstairs offer a spectacular view of the Russian Orthodox Church opposite.

The city is compact and the wide boulevards are best discovered on foot. At its heart is the enormous golden domed St Alexander Nevsky Cathedral – built after the liberation of Bulgaria from the Ottoman Empire in 1878 and one of the country's most precious symbols. We also visited the fourth century Rotunda of St George, the oldest monument in Sofia, hidden in a courtyard by towering modern buildings.

Although tourism is still fairly low key, visitors are well catered for and English is widely spoken. The food is varied and delicious, with a strong Turkish influence. At Vodenitsata restaurant, a 20-minute drive up nearby Mount Vitosha, we enjoyed plate after plate of all kinds of salads (perfect for the vegetarians in our party, despite stuffed boar heads on the walls), amazing bread and grilled meat dishes. As the Bulgarian wine flowed we were entertained with traditional music and dancing. The entertainment then moved outside where two of the musicians danced on hot ashes. Another foodie highlight was lunch at Pri Orlite restaurant on the 18th floor of Bulgaria's Ministry of Transport. The 360 degree views were amazing and the food was great too.

We stayed at the comfortable and well-located Hilton Sofia with free Wi-Fi, a 24-hour fitness centre, salon and pool. It is an easy walk from the pedestrianised shopping street Vitosha Boulevard, and my room on the ninth floor offered great views of the city and surrounding mountains.

The two-night stay flew by and we were off to Bucharest and another Hilton hotel. The Athenee Palace is one of the city's most sophisticated and prestigious landmarks, located on Revolution Square.

Built in 1914, the Athenee Palace Hilton Bucharest hotel has witnessed wars, earthquakes and espionage and welcomed many high-profile figures. Today its spectacular ballroom and marble lobby remain, but the five-star facilities now include a gym, spa and a pool. We ate lunch in the hotel's famous English Bar, sampling caviar, snails, seafood and other delicacies while we soaked up the atmosphere.

One of the city's biggest tourist attractions, the brutal dictator Nicolae Ceausescu's colossal Parliamentary Palace is a shocking reminder of the former communist leader's megalomania. It is the second largest administrative building in the world (after the Pentagon in the US). Its construction involved 700 architects and 20,000 builders, plus factory workers, army workers and 'volunteers'.

We joined a one-hour guided tour that covered more than a mile of corridors and marble staircases and we had only seen three per cent of the building.

After the palace, a visit to the open air Village Museum in Herastrau Park was literally a breath of fresh air. Celebrating 300 years of Romanian rural life, it's a great opportunity to enjoy one of the city's top outdoor spaces and fantastic value at just £2.

The following day we tried our hands at a pottery workshop run by artist Lucian Taran and learned more about the new city art studio tours run by Daniela Staicu (www.artinbucharest.com). Her other passion is managing Merci Charity Boutique and tea room, which helps children suffering from cancer and other illnesses.

Although parts of the capital were destroyed by Ceausescu in the 1980s, the old town survived and here bars, cafes and restaurants are full of life. Having already feasted on traditional Romanian fare at the sister hotel DoubleTree by Hilton in the commercial district, we were ready to sup the local ale – and made a brief stop at Caru' cu Bere, on Stavropoleos Street, Bucharest's oldest beer house, built in 1899.

Our final destination for the evening was Dionysos wine bar and shop in Strada Sepcari where we were introduced to some great Romanian wines. To say owner Radu Tudor is knowledgeable is an understatement and his mantra, "drink what you like", is liberating. You can taste before you buy at big wooden tables or just pop in for a drink.

It was the perfect ending to a fascinating trip. Cheers, Bucharest (or should I say Noroc?) . . .

Fact file

Hilton Sofia Hotel – prices start from £75 per night for a double room

Athenee Palace Hilton Bucharest Hotel – prices start from £80 per night for a double room

Boyana Church, Sofia – entry around £4 www.boyanachurch.org

St Alexander Nevsky Cathedral, Sofia – free entry, www.sanocpgh.org

Dionysos wine bar, – Bucharest, wine tastings are available daily

www.dionysos.bar

Village Museum, Bucharest. Entry around £2 www.muzeul-satului.ro