Express & Star

Here's to beer and castles in the capital of Bohemia

Juliet Hounman gets a taste for the Czech Republic

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I embarked on my inaugural trip to Czech Republic with little knowledge of the area, having never visited the reaches beyond central Europe.

The much anticipated four-day jaunt around an array of Czech towns and cities was a journey into the unknown. Met by a charming, yet very direct and authoritarian tour guide at Prague airport, I knew immediately that the trip would be an interesting one.

First stop was Prague Castle. A majestic structure that the Guinness book of records lists as the largest ancient castle complex in the world, it represents almost every architectural style of the last millennium.

I was immediately struck by the spectacular light bouncing off the assorted and magnificent buildings. With so many influences including Neo Gothic, Baroque and Romanesque, when it comes to architecture, Prague is certainly one of the most beautiful cities in Europe.

After the walk around Prague Castle, I was ravenous and, of course, thirsty for the much lauded Czech beer. A bustling city centre restaurant was a cross between a steamy beer hall and restaurant, Vytopma, like most restaurants visited, was full of atmosphere.

Bizarrely, the beer is served on mini trains which weave their way on train tracks around the restaurant.

The waitress wasted no time on pleasantries and with military precision and skill organised our food orders.

The novelty of being served drinks by a train was slightly marred by the starters and mains arriving the same time. Both dishes being huge, they took some tackling before most on our table admitted defeat.

Rich, stodgy and indulgently meaty, Czech food is not for delicate diners but certainly hits the spot after an afternoon of sightseeing. The beer did not disappoint either, and despite being full to the point of bursting our tour group made light work of the crystal clear Pilsner on offer.

An early morning start saw us leave for Pilsen.

As we ventured through the Czech countryside, I lamented at my lack of language skills and kicked myself for not learning a few words in Czech. The people are direct and to the point, yet incredibly charismatic and left me wanting to know more about them.

Situated in western Bohemia, Pilsen has just been awarded The European Capital of Culture and is most famous for its Pilsner.

Brewed at the large Pilsner Urquell facility since 1842, the brewery claims to have inspired more than two thirds of all the world's beer. Here we spent a hazy few hours beer tasting, and then moved on to the Pilsen historical underground, a web of tunnels which date back to the 14th century.

The highlight of the trip was definitely the visit to Dobrany where the beginning of the brewing industry dates back to the the year 1378. This place stood out as a serious microbrewery, Modra Hvezda is home to a brewmaster very serious about his beer. Petr Petružálek talked us through his brewing process with typical Czech humour and gusto.

Whilst I hardly had time to catch my breath while being whisked around only a peppering of what the Czech Republic offers, I left feeling overindulged and exhausted yet with a hunger to learn more about this charming country, its extensive history and charismatic inhabitants.

And, of course, the superb beer.

Flights to Prague from Birmingham start at £207 with Brussels airlines.

Three-star hotel stay in the centre of Prague costs from £18 per night (Three Crowns Hotel) www.3korunky.cz/en

Visit exhibitions and historical buildings at Prague Castle, tickets start at £5. www.hrad.cz/en

The average price of a large beer in the city is £1.25.

A hearty meal to soak up the beer will set you back around £2-£4 in a pub or reasonably priced restaurant.

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