Vibrant new image
Kimberley Crayton-Brown discovers the reinvented French city of Lille
Packed with thousands upon thousands of revellers, the main streets and squares of Lille came to life with the pulsating sounds, colours and sights of Rio de Janeiro.
Launching the Lille 3000 Renaissance festival, more than 300,000 people turned out for the city's very own Carnevale-style parade, featuring live music, vibrant floats and dancers, acrobats, and a giant inflatable Godzilla.
Held every three years, the idea for the festival began when the city was named the European Capital of Culture in 2004, and now encompasses hundreds of events throughout the city and wider Lille district.
Ending this weekend, the theme for Lille 3000 is Renaissance, which celebrates overcoming crisis and subsequent re-birth. Five cities from around the world were invited to take part – Detroit, Seoul, Rio, Eidnhoven, and Phnomh Penh – each hosting exhibitions, displays, and its own themed weekend throughout the three-month affair.
Lille itself has seen a re-birth in recent years, with older buildings such as Tripostal, the former post sorting office, now home to a quirky café and gallery. During Lille 3000, bright colours and pop culture of modern-day Seoul are in stark contrast to the metallic machines and political comment within the rest of the 'Seoul, vite vite' exhibition.
Ahead of the parade, Lille hummed with excitement, with towering statues direct from Rio forming a guard along the main street, and brightly-coloured inflatables dotted throughout the city as part of the festival's 'metamorphoses' display.
ing clouds are home to watchful figures of travellers and angels, overlooking incoming and outgoing trains.
And while the festival itself is reason enough to visit Lille, which is less than 90 minutes from London St Pancras on the Eurostar, its dozens of galleries, the young and energetic vibe and beautiful 17th Century Flemish buildings in the 'old town' make it a top spot to visit year-round.
A short walk through the centre of Lille brings you to the Palais des Beaux-Arts, the largest French museum outside Paris. As part of Lille 3000 the museum is hosting a display that encompasses that mainstay of French culture – joie de vivre. From illuminated floor to ceiling sunbeams, projected scenes from films like Thelma and Louise, and artistic displays of love, family and joy, you can't help but come away from the exhibition smiling, and feeling just that little bit brighter.
Another unmissable display that will leave you feeling happier than when you walked in is La Piscine in nearby Roubaix. An art deco swimming pool-turned-museum, it is a truly stunning sight. Sculptures line the original tiled edges of the pool, which still features a strip of water that acts as a mirror for the sun-like stained glass arches at either end. The changing rooms along the edges of the pool have been transformed into mini-galleries, and during Lille 3000 the museum is showing a Chagall exhibition, which looks at his connection with music. The site even has a café, where you can enjoy lunch followed by one of Lille's famous delicacies – a Meert's Madagascan vanilla waffle.
No trip to Lille would be complete without one, but fair warning: it is very difficult to stop at just one.
Travel facts
A Lille city pass, starting at €25 includes entry to La Piscine (http://www.roubaix-lapiscine.com/) and Palais des Beaux-Arts (www.pba-lille.fr), as well as more than 20 other museums and attractions. It also includes free access to Lille Metropole (metro, bus and tram) www.lilletourism.com/city-pass
Villa Cavrois is open every day except Tuesdays, entry is €7.50 (approx. £5) www.villa.cavrois.fr
Lille 3000 and the metamorphoses displays are on until January 17, with more information on exhibitions, themed weekends, and events available at www.lille3000.eu
Tickets from London St Pancras to Lille Europe on the Eurostar start at £34.50 one way www.eurostar.com
Lille tourist office is offering a Renaissance short break package, including accommodation and a Lille city pass, from €45 (approx. £32) en.lilletourism.com