Express & Star

Exquisite Thai flavours to superior city views

On a stay in the Big Smoke, Sharon Walters discovers Thai food heaven

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I wasn't expecting that . . . one of the best Thai meals I have ever eaten . . . in a traditional London hotel overlooking Hyde Park.

The Lancaster London is an iconic mid-century hotel in a great location with a tube on its doorstep and just minutes away from shopping heaven in Oxford and Bond Street and a short distance further on to the West End theatres, museums and tourists attractions.

But for me the best thing about this elegant, quiet and unassuming hotel is the Nipa Thai which has received the prestigious "Thai Select" award from the Thai Government for its authentic cuisine, presented to Thai restaurants proven to have achieved the highest standards of quality. It is renowned as one of London's best Thai restaurants, with dishes created by the all-lady kitchen brigade managed by head chef Sanguan Parr and delivers outstanding traditional cuisine that combines hot spices with mild and sweet flavours, offering a mix of dishes from Thailand's central region.

The extensive à la carte menu at Nipa includes starters such as Por Pia Tod (crisp spring rolls containing glass noodles, cabbage and crab meat with a sweet plum sauce). Main course dishes include specialities such as Pla Nueng Ma Nao (steamed seabass in a garlic, lemongrass, lime leaf and chilli broth). There is also a wide selection of Thai salads, pan-fried dishes and red or green Thai curries. You can also enjoy delicately flavoured Thai desserts, such as Caramel Lychees (caramel delice with a crunchy lychee centre, chilli and pineapple Carpaccio with salted caramel ice cream). On our visit we did not make the dessert stage but one of our choices was the steamed sea bass which gained ten out of ten on our marking sheet (along with all the other dishes, come to that!) - and that marking sheet is quite difficult to score highly on. My partner and I both both love cooking and eating out and can be very critical. Nothing disappointed here on the food front and nothing on the service either. That efficient service is overseen by Nipa Thai's restaurant manager, Kaseam Jongpitakrat. I would suggest that a few restaurant managers in London and elsewhere could learn a great deal from him.

Aside from the à la carte selection Nipa has two Thai Wine paired set menus, a traditional Khantok lunch menu plus a pre-theatre Khantok served between 5 and 7pm, which is especially good value offering a tray in the Bento-style with separate compartments for a variety of dishes plus a glass of wine, beer or soft drink for £19.50.

And to give you an idea of what an average meal would cost - three courses come out at around £40 a head including wine. You simply have to try Nipa Thai.

There is a second restaurant, the Island Grill, which we did not try but has very good recommendations. We did try the breakfast, an unbelievable selection of dishes from a wide range of cultures. From traditional British full house, to eggs Benedict, to curries and even Arabic and Japanese dishes. This hotel is popular with visitors from across the world and breakfast aims to meet all their needs.

We also tried the Lounge Bar, a perfect spot for coffee or a cocktail or two! Plus, the hotel's executive chef Ben Purton has created a fun yet traditional Afternoon Tea priced at £30, with nostalgic candy inspired sweet treats such as: white chocolate truffle & raspberry lollypops with popping candy; mini pistachio macaroons; and a Caramel & hazelnut tranche.

The rooms offer views of the city with a choice of either across to the City or a park view. Either give stunning aspects of our capital. And the beds are very comfortable indeed.

For the ultimate in luxurious living, the Hyde Park Suite, the Radnor Suite, the Connaught Suite, the Fountain Suite and the Presidential Suite are all designed and provide the best views from the upper floors of the hotel. The five Embassy Suites provide lavish comfort with two to three connecting bedrooms, walk-in dressing rooms, sophisticated lounges and bathrooms with separate shower facilities. The twelve Luxury Royal Suites boast stunning views across Hyde Park from the distinct lounge and dining spaces, perfect for entertaining privately. The Superior and Deluxe rooms offer king-size or twin beds, stylish seating areas, and plush bathrooms. Facilities across all rooms include air-conditioning, satellite television, mini bars, en-suite bathrooms and power showers.

Fact file

Lancaster London, Lancaster Terrace, London W2 2TY

Reservations on 020 7551 6000 or visit www.lancasterlondon.com

Weekday rates start from £179 per room per night, whilst weekend rates start from £159.

Nipa Thai, 1st Floor, Lancaster London, Lancaster Terrace, London W2 2TY

Reservations on 020 7551 6039 or visit www.niparestaurant.co.uk

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