Visiting a grape escape

The Castilla y Leon region in north-western Spain doesn't have a beach or an Irish pub to offer, and it's not a cultural hotspot like Madrid, for example. In fact, it's not really on the tourist map at all. But all that could be about to change.

The area is making a name for itself with its wines. The Spanish, of course, have been glugging its distinctive reds for years but now the outside world is beginning to take notice.

Lying just west of the famous Rioja region, many of Castilla y Leon's vineyards are opening up to the public.

The area has nine appellations, or protected vineyard zones – one white, one rose and seven reds, the best known being the Ribera Del Duero, a red which is challenging Rioja for the crown of Spain's greatest wine.

Typical tours of the Ribera region include three nights' bed and breakfast plus a full-day transported tour with three winery visits and a three-course lunch.

We flew to Madrid with Grape Escapes (I know, great name) and transferred to Valladolid, the former capital of Spain, a two-and-a-half hour drive away. Don Quixote author Cervantes lived here for three years, Christopher Columbus died here. The place is steeped in history and it also has some great restaurants.

Check out El Trigo in the city centre where a heavenly seven-course tester menu cost £32 and a great little wine shop, Senorita Malauva, which does wine-tasting courses with tapas for between £8 and £25, is the new cool place to hold your hen party.

There are lots of decently priced hotels in town. Our comfortable stay at the Enara, in Spanish Square, was £55 for a double room and breakfast.

By was of contrast a few miles away is the hotel Abadía Retuerta LeDomaine, which opened in March 2012 in a converted 12th century monastery. This is for window shopping only unless you're loaded. Prices start at £220 a room per night and rise to £620 for butler service and guided tours of the surrounding vineyards.

In the shadow of the Penafiel Castle lies the Bodegas Protos Winery which has been a big factor in the growing popularity of wines from the Ribera del Duero region. Six years ago, a modern extension was built to facilitate the increasing demand, which includes custom-designed areas for tastings.

The sight of rows and rows of French oak barrels – tens of thousands of them – in 2km of underground galleries is truly awe-inspiring.

Penafiel is also famous for its medieval square, Plaza del Coso, still used for bullfights, The square is overlooked by private apartments hired out to the highest bidders when the bulls are in town.

You cannot leave Penafiel without eating at El Lagar de San Vincente, a traditional restaurant set in a wine cellar where we gorged on the most un-PC but jaw-droppingly delicious three-week-old lamb. I hesitated for at least three seconds before tucking in.

The vineyards of La Planta in Quintilla de Onesimo, which provide grapes for the Arzuaga Navarro winery, are memorable for having a 1,000 year old oak tree on site. Even more memorable is their location beside a wild boar and deer reserve.

The winery's luxurious hotel spa has extensive wine cellars which can be toured before eating divine food on the verandah.

Portia is the other large-scale winery in the region and it's a must-see. Stunning to look at, it was designed by Norman Foster and is considered to be one of the finest in the world. You may think once you've seen one winery, you've seen them all, but this is something else.

The girlies among us were tempted to invest in wine-based skin products on sale in the shop. Why? Apparently wine's anti-oxidant qualities are good for the skin and, heck, it felt right at the time.

After all that food and drink, it was time for... more food and drink.

The last sleep was spent in a chic two-storey apartment at the Rice Palacio hotel in Burgos but not before a tapas feast at El 24 de la Paloma and a tour of the bars.

Burgos, a medieval town that grew into a Rennaissance city, boasts a beautiful cathedral, gardens, shops, markets and more architectural delights than the eye can take in. If you've got time and inclination, visit the Museum of Human Evolution, of which the city is rightly proud.

l RESTAURANTS

Restaurante El Trigo in Valladolid – visit ww.restaurantetrigo.com/

Wine-tasting at Vinoteca Sta. Malvauva in Valladolid – www.vinotecamalauva.es/

HOTELS

Hotel Enara in Valladolid. See the website www.enarahotel.es/

Abadia Retuerta in Duero Valley. Visit the site www.abadia-retuerta.com/

El Lagar de San Vicente in Penafiel

Wine Spa Arzuaga in Valladolid – see the site www.hotelarzuaga.com/

Rice Palacio de los Blasones in Burgos – www.hotelricepalaciodelosblasones.com/

VINEYARDS

Protos – www.bodegasprotos.com/es/

Portia – www.bodegasportia.com/index_portia.asp

Fly with Easyjet from London Gatwick.

For details about tour operator Grape Escapes, visit www.grapeescapes.net

For more information about Castilla y León, visit www.turismocastillayleon.com and www.spain.info