Travel review: Perfect, whatever the weather

We took our trip to Ambleside’s Waterhead Hotel in that time between summer and autumn, when neither season likes to concede defeat.

Families queueing in the warm sun for ice-cream would, next minute, be reaching for jumpers and heading for tables in cosy tea shops, and sparks of summer light would give way to the rain of skittering leaves as the hues of autumn seeped in.

Such was our view from the Waterhead, which overlooks the splendours of Lake Windermere, the largest natural lake both in the Lakes and in England.

It was the area’s first town-house hotel and boasts a canny mix of sophistication and warmth.

Guests also have the use of the nearby Low Wood Leisure Club, which has a fully equipped gym, squash courts and an indoor swimming pool. There is also a relaxing sauna and hot tub.

The hotel’s position, looking over the water, is delightful, and we were thrilled to get a room not only with a view but a quaint balcony.

Our bedroom was stylish and generous, with fluffy bath robes, a large flatscreen television and DVD player and two complimentary mini-bottles of gin.

But it wasn’t these or the wealth of luxury brand toiletries in the vast bathroom that delighted me the most – it was the thoughtful inclusion of a top-notch Bluetooth speaker. For those, like me, who carry a lot of music around on their phones, it is a very thoughtful addition. Imagine playing your own soundtrack to the twilight settling over such golden scenery.

But dinner called and the AA rosette restaurant, with its favouring of local ingredients with a twist on the traditional, was a joy.

Ian chose the fillet of beef carpaccio to start, which was tender and perfectly seasoned while I had the delicious pan-seared duck breast, lured by The Lakes Distillery ‘The One’ whisky used as part of the glaze.

He then went for the roasted corn-fed chicken breast with a tempting sweetcorn puree while I couldn’t resist the slow cooked pork belly and the sauteed cabbage and bacon that came with it.

A red wine poached pear and bakewell tart and a selection of locally made ice-creams came as a finale before returning to our room, where a phial of relaxing lavender oil had been left on our bed. I’ve found end-of-day chocolates before but nothing like this.

Next morning, duly revived, we ate a hearty breakfast and headed out to sight-see.

The hotel is a handy 10-minute walk from Windermere, with its Beatrix Potter museum, walks and cruises but, seeking more tranquility we headed to Glenridding and a trip on a steamer to the 70-foot waterfall at Aira Force.

Sadly, autumn chose to lash out at us and as we arrived, and all the sailings were cancelled due to the high winds.

Undeterred we continued by road and easily found this beautiful National Trust-owned attraction. The waterfall is set amid rocks and an arboretum and has witnessed sightings of red squirrels.

A walk and a toasted teacake later and we found ourselves in the quite gorgeous village of Grasmere, which was pretty as a picture even with a brewing storm.

Lying at the foot of Helm Crag, it gave us just the serenity we sought. We joined a few other pilgrims making their way to Wordsworth’s grave lying in St Oswald’s Church, and enjoyed the fragrance of baking from the Grasmere Gingerbread shop, which was once the 17th century village school where Wordsworth taught. Although busy we were able to find seats at The Inn, and enjoyed some of the best fish and chips ever.

With the light failing we were happy to return to the Waterhead and drink in its reviving atmosphere which is, quite simply, for walkers, families with children and couples alike – perfect.

And even better, now winter is hopefully giving way to spring and all those joyous daffodils.