Food review: Purecraft Bar & Kitchen, Birmingham

If the West Midlands were to hand out a lifetime achievement award, a Godlike Genius Award or a most-influential restaurateur gong, there would be only one winner: Andreas Antona.

For all of the Michelin stars that Birmingham and Ludlow have garnered over the past 20 years, for all of the improved standing that the region has enjoyed, Andreas has maintained his position at the forefront. He’s had a star for longer than anyone else, he’s employed and influenced more cooks and his imprint on the region’s dining scene has become indelible.

Andreas was a mentor to some of the region’s biggest and best chefs – the likes of fellow Michelin-star holders Luke Tipping of Simpsons and Glynn Purnell of Purnell’s, not forgetting the multi-award-winning Any Waters, of Waters Restaurant.

He’s created a number of truly memorable restaurants during his many years in the region, most notably Simpsons, which he created in Kenilworth in 1993 then relocated to Edgbaston, and The Cross, at Kenilworth. More recently, he has collaborated with Paul Halsey, from Purity Brewing Co, to create Purecraft Bar and Kitchen, which has branches in Birmingham and Nottingham. And, as you’d expect, the food is absolutely stunning.

And yet Pure Bar is about much more than just great nosh. It celebrates the remarkable rise of craft beers, which have become ubiquitous in fashionable towns and cities across the UK. Craft beers have been having a moment in recent times, after the USA-led movement migrated across the Atlantic. Breweries are springing up across the country, experimenting with styles and methods of brewing that haven’t been available for decades – sometimes longer. Beers mixing strawberry, hibiscus and rose petals or mixing flavours of mango, citrus, earthy pine and tropical fruit are de rigeur.

Craft ales are becoming as popular and widespread as decent wine did during the 1970s and 1980s. Suddenly, a whole new generation of drinkers know all about hops and malts. You’re as likely to find bearded men of a certain age whispering: ‘Hmmmm, it’s got notes of coffee bean, cocoa, toasted hazlenuts and a hint of dark berries’ as he is to say: ‘Lager top and a packet of crisps please, love’.

Pure Bar is at the vanguard of that new wave of craft ales. Its mission is to create new beer fans, either new to a particular beer or completely new to beer. And it believes that matching great food and beer in an interesting atmosphere is the key to pleasurable evenings that can be shared and celebrated. The Birmingham branch opened in March 2014 and has exceeded expectation. It won the Great British Pub Awards National Award for Best Beer Pub in 2015 – the industry’s Oscar equivalent – and remains at the cutting edge of great beer and food.

Andreas and Halsey are partnered by logistics and service man, Martin Hilton, a former director with Mitchells & Butler, to make their operation tick. Hashtag #DreamTeam.

Pure Bar is about more than just great food and drink, however. It’s a great environment in which to socialise and relax. Located near to the centre of town, at the far end of Colmore Row, it’s just a short distance from the Town Hall, Symphony Hall and financial district. That means there’s a constant buzz, day and night. On weekdays, it’s full of city types, discussing deals, asking whether ‘great’ means ‘yes’ or ‘we’ll kick it into the long grass’. At evenings, it’s packed with couples, friends and others who want to enjoy a convivial time among friends. At weekends there’s a different crowd, filling the venue with good vibes and the sweet smell of money.

I visited for a midweek lunch, calling in without booking and enjoying a solo dining experience where food and service were both of the highest standard. The menu is a triumph. Though Antona made his name by inspiring a generation of Michelin-star chefs to cook the best fine dining in the West Midlands, Pure Bar is all about the simple things in life.

So delicious fish and chips is served along with steak and fries, sausage rolls, Black Country pork pies and free range pickled eggs. Nothing could be cooler. Except, of course, under Antona’s brilliant gaze, the humble beef patty is elevated into a new realm. Pork scratchings are no longer dusty old bits of hair-stuck pig skin that have been hanging around for too long; they’re gourmet snacks served standing sentry-straight and upright as though they’re about to be served to the Queen. There are sharing boards of great cheese and charcuterie and the suppliers are the best in the region – meat comes from Aubrey Allen, cheese from Shropshire’s Martin Moyden and cooked meats from Forrest Pig.

My burger was a work of beauty. The fries were good but not the best I’ve eaten – Bryan Webb, at Tyddyn Llan, in North Wales, takes the prize for best fries while Stephen Terry, at The Hardwick, in Abergavenny, cooks some of Britain’s best chips.

The burger, however, was a work of beauty. It was to pub food what The David is to sculpture; it was as magnificent as a Shakespearian sonnet; as complete as Romeo’s love for Juliet. Served on a wooden plate, a tender, still-slightly-pink beef burger was topped with beautifully caramelised, thoroughly cooked smoked streaky bacon that was salty and sweet. The burger oozed outrageous, meaty juices as I cut – rather than bit – into it. D.Lish.Us.

A slice of Wrekin White Cheese had melted and oozed across the burger and bacon while beneath were crisp and fresh slices of baby gem lettuce. Beer ketchup, mustard and pickles completed the burger, which was enveloped in a gossamer-soft milk bun. It was heavenly. If Elvis does ever come back to planet earth, we’ll know where to find him. A huh huh.

And though the treacle tart with stout ice cream sounded good – and the raspberry beer Arctic roll with white chocolate popcorn even better – I was replete after a starter of scratchings and burger main.

Service was exceptional throughout. Pure Bar has an open plan kitchen and the thoroughly professional front of house staff were welcoming, polite and engaged. Menus were delivered swiftly, orders taken without delay, bills collected without an ingratiating plea for a tip – they were, in a word, excellent.

In recent years, there’s been a blossoming of the informal dining scene across the West Midlands. A number of great bars have sprung up – like The Pig and Tail, in Birmingham’s Jewellery Quarter – offering simple food that’s fairly priced and comes with a promise of exceeding expectation. It’s no surprise that Pure Bar is the acme of class. Under Antona’s tutelage, it’s ahead of the pack. With gutsy, flavoursome dishes, brilliant craft ales and polished service, it’s purely enjoyable.