Food review: Original Patty Men, Birmingham

Right, we want something American, and what’s more American than a burger?

Where do we go to get a good burger? For us, the decision was to head to Original Patty Men (O.P.M).

Having eaten OPM’s food a few years ago at Digbeth Dining Club (if you haven’t heard of that, it’s a street food event, do some research it’s well worth it), I wanted to see if they’ve reached even headier heights having gone from pop-up to permanent premises under the railway arches in Digbeth, Birmingham.

The independent restaurant has a plain frontage, camouflaging it in its industrial surroundings; no obvious signage, just a small logo hanging from the side of the building to give a subtle hint to tell ‘those in the know’, they’re in the right place.

The branding is great, a strong logo, combining hipster style and classic typography.

My wife Emma and I arrived on a wet and cold Thursday night at around 6.30pm. We were able to park right outside in a row of pay-and-display spaces. Once you get close and see the restaurant face on, a welcoming outdoor area is to the right. It has a strong street food vibe; strings of light bulbs hang up on the arch ceiling and astro turf on the floor, with benches and tables lined up – perfect for the warmer days.

We went through and walk downstairs to get inside and we were greeted by a typically hipster-looking waiter, with obligatory beard. It’s a look that’s carried out throughout most of the staff.

The place doesn’t scream Americana, there’s not a flag in sight, but it is very New York-esque. There are plenty of raw materials, think plywood, metal scaffolding posts and wood planks, with the original corrugated iron structures giving the place a stripped-back, industrial feel.

We were immediately shown to our table, requesting one for four, with a couple of friends on their way. The drinks menu was handed to us, with the chalkboard of special beers pointed out. We were given a few minutes to decide while the waiter grabbed us some table water – again very NYC.

Some of the beers were a little steep in price; a Raspberry Cream Ale, Brouwerij Kees & Cloud Water was £7.50 for 330ml, and Hypnotist Magic Rock IPA was £8 for 500ml. However, with arty labels and cans, they’re the sort of trendy craft ales that come with a pricetag. Soft drink options weren’t the usual Coca-Cola brand either, which I like. Again the style of the bottles was fun, with a cartoon whistling lemon on the side of Emma’s Lemony Lemonade, £2.50 from the Karma Cola brand – not sure I saw a diet option though.

Our friends arrived and received the same friendly and attentive service from our waiter and another waitress.

On arrival, the restaurant was about half full; at maximum capacity there’s around 35 covers, with potential for more outside in the summer months. The temperature inside the restaurant was a little chilly, but in fairness, it was a very cold night, and it did warm up as the restaurant got more busier.

The menu consists of four burgers, three different style fries and a couple of sides.

Our waitress also pointed out a burger special, called the ‘Beef Special’, consisting of a cheese-filled patty, topped with Red Leicester cheese, tomato, white onion, lettuce and burger sauce on a brioche bun. This option got Emma’s attention straight away, where as I knew what was coming on the standard menu – the house specialty – ‘Big Verns’ Krispy Ring. ‘Krispy’ spelt this way, because instead of your conventional bread bun, the housing ingredient is a decadent Krispy Kreme doughnut. Yes, you read that right – a halved ring doughnut, toasted until slightly caramelised, then sandwiching aged longhorn beef patties, maple-coated bacon, American cheese, ketchup and mustard. She asked if we wanted to double up, and after her recommendation, ‘you can never have too much meat’, we were convinced.

Veggies can opt for the Magic Shroom Burger – presumably not anything hallucinogenic, but it does feature slow-cooked Portobello mushroom coated in BBQ sauce, with a creamy kale slaw.

We ordered a variety of seasoned fries, in particular ones topped with jalapeño slaw, sriracha mayo, crispy-fired onions and fresh spring onion.

Fast forward 15 minutes and the food was heading our way. The burger arrived on a metal tray, and the fries were in foil containers, similar to those used in Chinese takeaways. The burger was slightly pink in the middle, I could have gone rarer, but I guess this suit the majority of diners; I should have specified it to be more rare. The flavour and texture wowed me. It didn’t need to be cooked any less, the beef patties were juicy, flavoursome, and well-seasoned, it instantly transported me back to some of the best burgers I’ve ever had in London and the States.

Trust me, the doughnut bun works. Like icing sugar on French toast or maple syrup on pancakes, bacon and eggs, this sweet and savoury combination cuts through the grease but wasn’t too sweet. And it’s messy in all the right places.

The fries, for me, weren’t anything to shout about. If they were cooked thrice it wasn’t for very long each time. However, they were certainly improved by the toppings. Atop the O.D.B fries, the jalapeño slaw was quite loose, fresh with coriander and lime but not overly spicy. Adding this to the crunchy fried onions and the zing of the spring onions, it all worked well. The spice mix was well balanced, with a nod to Indian flavours. Worked a treat.

Emma’s burger was also well seasoned and cooked, topped off with the classic accompaniments. The melted cheese and sauce oozed out just where is should. I wouldn’t suggest this to be a first date kind of restaurant – the food’s too messy. After all, a sign of a good burger is that you need to go and wash your hands immediately afterwards, which I did. It gave me chance to inspect the unisex toilets; a freshly-decorated single WC, tiled floor-to-ceiling with brick shaped tiles.

Another sign of a good restaurant is when my phone gets whipped out to Shazam a song – and mine did a couple of times; a place where great background tunes just keep on being played. You can also hear the low rumble of a train now and again, just to remind you that you really are under the railway arches of Moor Street.

Our waitress collected our empty trays and checked we were happy. The staff were relaxed yet efficient, inviting us to consider dessert. Options included Rolo Cheesecake and Boost Brownie. We were sold.

The vanilla cheesecake had a firm, creamy texture with a Rolo piece on top, meanwhile the brownie was quite a thin, but perfectly gooey, chewy and chocolatey. It came topped with a scoop of vanilla ice cream.

The restaurant was now full, and people were queueing for tables, however the waiter assured us not to rush to finish our drinks.

As we left, the queue was probably 15 deep. I think we arrived at just the right time!

And despite the bitter chill, people had pitched up on the outdoor seating, scarves and all – this joint’s reputation is clearly spreading fast.

The guys in the kitchen obviously know what they’re doing, with their creative, signature specials, alongside popular staples. There aren’t loads of options but if it’s a burger you’re after, this is the place. I look forward to seeing what they come up with in the future.

Maybe next time the Mrs drags you round the Bull Ring, your bargaining tool could be choosing dinner. It’ll be well worth the wait outside the Topshop changing rooms.

It’s not fine dining but if you want something different – and a darn good good burger to boot, get down to O.PM.

By Simon Hill