Express & Star

Boycott Arms, Claverley

A new team has brought this early Georgian country pub bang up to date with hearty food, writes our undercover restaurant critic, The Insider.

Published

Please forgive me if you are feeling a touch of deja vu. Close observers may recall that

.

And it was not exactly a glowing review.

So, given the fact that I have already reviewed this place, and did not particularly enjoy the experience, why would I want to come back, little more than a year later?

Well, the whispers I have been hearing lately is that the Boycott has changed a lot. And I mean a lot.

Word is that the pub has been transformed by new landlord Andy Phelps since he took over this summer, and that the Boycott now provides an appetising choice of home-cooked food and real ales.

And after hearing so many good reports about his new-look Boycott, I felt duty bound to find out for myself.

Actually, "new look" is probably not the right description.

One thing that has not changed about the pub is the lovely olde worlde charm that oozes from this 295-year-old building, in Upper Ludstone, Claverley.

So the building's pretty whitewashed exterior and warm inviting inside, with its roaring open fire and rustic furnishings, have not changed.

But this time there was actually a healthy crowd of punters in the lounge (although the separate restaurant at the end of the building was still empty).

And instead of being warned on arrival that the kitchen closed in 20 minutes, as happened during the last visit, we were instead welcomed with open arms.

Why, we even saw one staff member indulging in a bit of jovial banter with some of the customers while clearing a table, and that is the sort of thing that can make all the difference.

I might be mistaken, but there seemed to be more tables in the pub compared to my last visit, and I liked the table mats with humorous slogans relating to the importance of food.

There is a choice of ales, all from the Marston's stable, including Jenning's Cumberland, and Banks's mild and bitter, but I decided to go for a pint of Brakspear Oxford Gold, quite a sharp, zesty bitter with a tangy citrus flavour.

The menu is based around simple pub food, with an emphasis on home-cooked produce.

There is a choice of rump or ribeye steak, two home-made pies, and other traditional favourites such as ham and eggs, cod and chips, or spinach and ricotta cannelloni for the vegetarians among you.

I was tempted by the mixed grill, but I often think how much more I would enjoy it if you could have a sort of "mixed grill light", I dunno, a mini steak, a bit of sausage, and a small pork chop, without having to commit to the full shebang.

In the end, though, I decided I wanted to see what the home-made steak and ale pie was like, while my companion went for the roasted honey and mustard chicken.

The food took around 25 minutes to arrive, and the first thing that struck me about the pie was how big it was.

If this pie were a car, it would be a Volvo. And I don't mean one of those dainty little coupes like Simon Templar drove, I mean a whacking great estate car with hefty great bumpers.

Thick, crusty pastry, and man-sized chunks of beef, piping hot, liberally covered with rich ale gravy. This is how pies are supposed to be.

It came with a bowl of nice thick hand-cut chips, a league apart from the flavourless machine-made efforts during my last visit.

I tried to eat all my pie, I really did, but it was too much for me, and I eventually conceded defeat to leave room for a bit of dessert.

My companion said the chicken, which was served with a home-made honey and mustard sauce, was also very good, and you do really get a lot for your £8.95.

It seems now that all desserts are made on the premises, a big improvement from the last time when we were not even offered a sweet menu.

We both went for the chocolate fudge cake, mine with ice cream, my companion's with cream. Both were top notch, and again very generously proportioned, with excellent and generous filling.

The total bill was £36.30, for two main courses each, a pint of beer, a glass of house rose wine, tea and coffee, and I really don't think you can say much fairer than that.

The Boycott is now the pub it should always have been, with hearty wholesome food and friendly service to go with the lovely old building and the stunning location.

During the course of the evening, my companion observed a conversation between a member of staff and a couple of customers, who had commented on how much the pub had improved.

So I would urge you all to forget everything I said about this place last year, and give it another go.

Don't boycott the Boycott. It's now a jolly fine pub.

ADDRESS

The Boycott Arms, Upper Ludstone, Claverley, Wolverhampton WV5 7DH

Phone: 01746 710272

Web: boycottarms.co.uk

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