Express & Star

The Trooper Inn, Lichfield

It sits in the rural countryside, near the historic village of Wall, overlooking the historical ancient Roman site of Letocetum, writes Harry Gottschalk.

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It sits in the rural countryside, near the historic village of Wall, overlooking the historical ancient Roman site of Letocetum,

writes Harry Gottschalk

.

Wall is a small village, with a population of around 400 people, situated between Lichfield, Shenstone and Muckley Corner, near the M6 Toll. St John's Church lies at the heart of the village and dates back to the 19th Century. Flints have been found in the village dating back to the Neolithic period and historians know that the Roman fort was established at Wall in or soon after AD 50 to accommodate Legio XIV, then advancing towards Wales.

In the late 1st century, a bath house and mansion was built in the village which was used by soldiers passing through the site.

In around AD 410, the site appears to have declined rapidly soon after the Romans left Britain. The Trooper Inn itself dates back itself to 1851.

Acting as both a pub and a restaurant, The Trooper has a lot to offer whatever the weather.

On a nice summer's afternoon, drinkers and restaurant visitors can take in expansive views of Sutton Coldfield, the Cathedral City of Lichfield and nearby Shenstone on traditional pub benches in the rear garden, or on the decking area.

Inside there is a stylish bar complete with two large open fireplaces and a wide-screen television giving the pub a homely feel.

There is a choice of four real ales which are selected from local brewers along with recognised favourites like Pedigree, Holden's Golden Glow and Abbot Ale.

There is also a good mix of ciders, lagers and an endless list of spirits, particularly whiskies.

The restaurant has room for 50 people and feels very modern, but without losing that "special" traditional ambience. The pub has a car park at the rear, but due to its isolated location many people wanting a drink choose to take a taxi.

I tried to book a table in the restaurant for 9pm on a Saturday night but they were fully booked. A friendly member of staff told me I could sit in the bar and they would save a table. Concerns we would be the only people eating while others were downing pints around us were quickly relieved on arrival as other diners were sat looking at the exhaustive menus in the bar.

The bar area has a cosy feeling, despite the mismatched chairs which surround the tables.

From the young man who took our telephone booking, to the two girls who brought over our food and drink, everyone had a smile on their face and was willing to make you feel welcome.

The chef sent over a complementary savoury chilled soup called a gazpacho as we waited for our starters which was a nice touch and got our taste buds going as we waited for our food.

The Trooper has one of the best pub menus I have ever seen, we had to send the waitress back while we narrowed down the choices. The starters range from fancy sounding soups, to confit duck rillette and Wagyu kobe fillet served with balsamic vine tomatoes.

I was happy with my delicious choice of smoked Scottish salmon and tiger prawn mousse, served with a fresh herb salsa and warm ciabatta. Another welcoem choice was pan seared Cornish king scallops, with a lemon, ginger and garlic butter sauce, which was equally scrumptious.

The mains list is even more impressive with fish delivered on a daily basis, fresh from Birmingham's wholesale market.

With 24 hour's notice, people can try the 7oz Wagyu 'Kobe' Fillet on sale for £55 – which the pubs say is the "most tender and succulent steak in world".

I didn't have 24 hours to wait so I opted for the 10oz rib-eye steak, served with hand-cut chips, beer battered onion rings and vine tomatoes, which was very tender and barely touched the sides.

The beef is sourced locally from Russell's Butchers in the neighbouring village of Shenstone and aged for 28 days.All the steaks are served with a choice of sauces: Red Wine and Stilton, Peppercorn, or Garlic and Herb Butter.

The braised belly of Packington Pork served with a roast garlic and pancetta cauphinoise, confit leeks, apple puree and a cider jus was also a winner.

Somewhere you would recommend then?

Yes. I can't fault it. Great service, surroundings, and staff.

ADDRESS

The Trooper Inn and Restaurant: Watling Street,Wall, Near Lichfield, WS14 0AN

Telephone: 01543 480413

Web: http://thetrooperwall.co.uk/

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