The Old Ticket Office, Hartlebury, Kidderminster

Richard Beeching has a lot to answer for. Not only did he decimate our railways, but worse than that he spawned a rather unfunny sitcom starring Paul Shane, writes our undercover food reviewer The Insider.

On the other hand, had he not wielded his axe on the services operating from Hartlebury railway station, the chances are you would not be reading this review now.

Funnily enough, Oh, Doctor Beeching! was filmed a few miles up the (axed) railway line from here, at what is now the preserved Severn Valley Railway.

Hartlebury station actually survived the Beeching axe. Well sort of. The station is still open, but the line to Bridgnorth was closed, the footbridge removed, and this fine building was declared surplus to requirements, and replaced with a couple of bus shelters.

Until recently it had been used as an engineering works, but last year Gary Attwood converted it into this new pub and restaurant.

As you would expect from an old railway building, there is a decent sized, level car park, so this is a genuine park-and-dine scheme, although there weren't too many free spaces on the night we called.

My hopes were raised when I spotted the brewery in one of the outbuildings at the back. Not only do I love trying different locally produced beers, but I have also yet to experience a bad meal at a pub with a microbrewery. Good beer and good food just go together.

Of course, given that The Old Ticket Office has only been here for a few months, it is no surprise that everything looks spic and span. But you have to say it is a first-class renovation job – sorry, but I have gone easy on the puns so far.

It is hard to explain how, but the traditional bar area at the front of the building has managed to retain the feel of a railway station from a bygone era, but still combine it with modern comforts.

The soothing peach walls and brown quarry tiles on the floor look slightly reminiscent of the old GWR chocolate-and-cream colour scheme, and a nice touch are the railway-style signs which direct people to the "waiting room" and the "dining car".

The restaurant is much larger than it looks from the outside, and is divided into smaller sections, separated by dividing walls.

The light wood panelling, thick tablecloths, deep carpets and plush chairs make the place feel really special, and the vase containing a single flower seems tastefully restrained.

On the Saturday night of our visit, the restaurant was busy, but not packed to the rafters by any means. A young couple was sat on the table next to us, and two ladies, one young-ish, the other slightly older were sat across the aisle.

It was hard not to be impressed by the knowledge of the young waitress – indeed, she said she had actually impressed herself – as she talked me through the different home-brewed ales on offer. She's obviously well trained. Trained! Geddit? I can't believe my own wit sometimes.

I decided to begin with Nectar, a light, sweet beer, and jolly good it was. I had actually finished it before the food came along, therefore I was left with little option but to follow it up with a half of Farmer's Dark Ale. There seemed to be some confusion between the two waitresses as to whether it should be described as a "dark bitter" or a mild, but after my careful scrutiny, my only observation is that it is very nice, whatever you call it.

If you prefer to drink from the grape rather than the grain, there are two very well-thought-out wine lists, one for wines by the glass, the other for wines by the bottle.

The food was hard to fault, too. Beautifully presented on wooden plinths, it came within around half an hour.

I chose the pie of the day, made with beef and Attwood ale, although I foolishly forgot to ask which ale it was made from. I am going to put my neck on the line and say it was the best pie I have eaten.

While many will prefer a short-crust lid to the puff pastry that this one had, any such reservations will be blown away by the superb contents of the pie. How often do we order a steak-and-ale pie, and find that the gravy is little more than gravy, with just a dash of beer in it?

Not with this one. It was positively brimming with flavour, rich and quite complex. There was plenty of soft, tender meat, and fresh carrots too, to make sure you don't feel to guilty.

My companion said the steakburger was also superb, and we were both raving about the beautiful triple-cooked chips, which were just as chips should be, fat, golden and crispy. There were also ample helpings of buttered peas, and I would certainly recommend the pie which was superb value at £10.95.

For afters I chose the coffee parfait, which was pleasant and light, while my companion went for the creme brulee.

The total bill was £49.65, which I thought was more than reasonable. The food was excellent, the surroundings elegant, the staff were charming and the service was exemplary.

I can't really find much bad to say about this place, and I would certainly eat here again. Just the ticket, in fact.

ADDRESS

The Old Ticket Office, Station Road, Hartlebury, Kidderminster, DY11 7YJ.

Tel: 01299 253275

Web: http://www.oldticketoffice-hartlebury.co.uk/

MENU SAMPLE

STARTERS

Crab cocktail, chilli tomato salsa and crostini (£5.95)

Goats' cheese crostini, beetroot and apple salsa, with dressed wild leaves (£5.95)

Spiced lamb kofta, minted raita and onion salad (£5.50)

MAINS

Curry, steamed rice and naan bread (£10.95)

Oven-roasted salmon fillet, new potatoes, buttered spinach and citrus beurre blanc (£12.95)

Pan-roasted duck breast, fondant potato, wilted greens and a cherry jus (£15.95)

DESSERTS

Fruit crumble and homemade ice cream (£5.50)

Chocolate panna cotta, strawberry compote and brandy-snap truffle (£5.50)

Cheese and biscuits, fresh grapes and chutney (£7.50)