The Fountain Inn, Clent

The Fountain Inn was very busy – and it's easy to see why this Black Country inn is so popular,

.

'Mind Yer Bonce 'is the message written on the low oak beams. It came to my attention when I looked up, having cracked my aforementioned bonce on it.

Oh well, where there's no sense, there's no feeling, so the saying goes.

Given that the secret of undercover food writing is, well, doing it in secret, keeping a low profile, not drawing unwanted attention to yourself, it wasn't the start I had planned. Particularly as it followed my pantomime-style entrance, where I emerged from behind a curtain used to keep the draughts out from the door.

The Fountain is a place I have been meaning to try for some time, having received numerous recommendations over the years, most recently from David and Linda Parker.

It is certainly popular. Despite telephoning a couple of days in advance, the only available times were 6pm, 6.30pm and 9pm, so we decided on the later slot.

And when we arrived, the car parks were heaving. Not a space to spare. Eventually, an elderly couple vacated their space.

The Fountain is located at the foot of the glorious Clent Hills which, while making it a beautiful spot to visit on a sunny day, also means that it can be a tricky walk from the rear car park if you are not fully fit.

Fortunately, I think my dramatic entrance went unnoticed, so packed was the place. Indeed it took a bit of jostling around the bar to inform staff about our arrival.

Despite turning up ahead of our 9pm booking, we were not able to take our tables until 9.15. But if the wait was a little irritating, it has to be said the attention to detail is superb. We were brought personalised menus with my name on (no, they didn't say The Insider), and my companion's orange juice was freshly squeezed in front of us.

There is an ever-changing choice of real ales, and customers can sample them all in third-of-a-pint measures if they want. Why don't more pubs offer this service?

The menu also gives a brief biography of the staff, which is a nice touch, and underlines the pedigree of the place.

The pub is positively festooned with awards, almost everywhere you look there are certificates; beneath the bar, on the stairs.

There is a choice of seven starters and 19 mains, including three vegetarian courses, so there should be no problem finding something that takes your fancy.

As we chose to skip the starter, we were treated to a complimentary sample of the chef's Stilton soup, which I wasn't expecting to like but actually found to be most enjoyable. A nice touch.

According to the menu, the "famous lamb pot roast" is the Fountain's signature dish which "melts in yer gob", having been "braised for yonks". You can have half a shoulder if you fancy it, but I decided to stick with the quarter shoulder, which was more than enough.

It came in quite good time considering the crowds, probably about 20 minutes, and when you actually get round to tucking into the food, you begin to understand why the place is so crowded.

To put it succinctly, it was superb. Delightful. Beautiful. Probably as good as any lamb dish I have eaten over the last four years.

The locally-sourced chunks of lamb were elegantly arranged in a neat stack, which almost makes you feel guilty about disturbing them. It was beautifully soft, and served in a rich brown sauce which gave it bags of flavour, and it was all topped off with crispy onions.

My companion had the 8oz fillet steak with Diane sauce, which she said was equally good, but perhaps even better were the side dishes. Beautiful, crispy golden hand-cut chips, creamy dauphinoise potatoes with a sprinkling of herbs, freshly steamed vegetables served in a delightful little basket. If I were to make one criticism, I would say that the carrots were a little hard for my taste, but that seems to be the way that people like them these days.

If you're one for cheese and biscuits, the Fountain's party piece is the cabinet of different cheeses, but I decided to go for the Bailey's cheesecake, which was excellent.

My companion went for the profiteroles, which were served with thick chocolate sauce, presented in an attractive glass tube, and home-made peanut butter ice cream. Like me, she was a little sceptical about the latter, but actually said it was excellent.

The food, therefore was excellent, but the experience was marred a little by the draught coming from the front door which people kept leaving open.

I have some sympathy with the owners here; it is an historic building in a rural area, and you can't really stick a storm porch on the front of it.

What I was less sympathetic to was the way some inconsiderate customers kept leaving the door wide open while going outside for a smoke. Forcefully slamming the door behind the worst offenders proved too subtle a hint, and I eventually lost my rag with one man. I asked if he would mind giving some thought to those of us bearing the brunt of the draught – only in slightly more direct terminology.

A more powerful weight on the door would probably solve the problem.

The total bill was £59.60, for two courses each, a pint-and-a-half of bitter, orange juice, coffee and tea. Good value I would say, for while there are minor gripes about the wait for a table and the draught from the door, the food was superb, surely among the best in the region.

Well worth a visit. Just make sure you shut the door behind you.

ADDRESS

The Fountain Inn, Adam's Hill, Clent, Stourbridge DY9 9PU

Tel: 01562 883286

Web: www.thefountainatclent.co.uk

MENU SAMPLE

STARTERS

Roast pepper stuffed with ratatouille and goat's cheese (£5.95)

Home-made vegetable cream soup (£4.95)

Hickory barbecue ribs (£5.95)

MAINS

Half duck a l'orange (£16.95)

Pork in filo pastry (£13.95)

Sea bass with mushrooms (£15.95)

Mushroom and walnut hotpot pies (£12.95)

16oz Scottish T-bone steak (£24.95)

DESSERTS

Vanilla crème brulee (£5.95)

Home-made chocolate brownies (£5.95)

Home-made ice creams: vanilla, honey, pink grapefruit, strawberry, banana, lemon and lime, melon (£2.50/£4.25)