The Angry Chef restaurant, Bewdley

Sorry, I know I shouldn't, but I couldn't help myself,

. Briefly loitering around the door to the kitchen, casually eavesdropping on any action that might be going on.

I don't know what I was expecting to hear. A kitchen porter being smashed over the head with a tea tray? Shughie McFee chasing after the sous chef with a meat cleaver? Somebody giving the staff a Gordon Ramsay-style dressing down?

Maybe I've been watching too much television, but there must be some reason why they call it The Angry Chef.

Well you will be pleased to know that it was all quiet on the kitchen front, there was not sign of any kitchen rage and all the staff were pleasant, friendly and hospitable.

The Mug House pub is thought to date back from the early 19th century, shortly after Thomas Telford's famous bridge replaced an earlier one swept away by the river.

Indeed, this pub used to be famous as the one that always used to remain open, even when it was a foot deep in floodwater every time the Severn burst its banks.The flood defences installed around the same time as the present restaurant opened mean such stories are now a thing of the past.

What has not changed is the stunning riverside location. Bewdley takes its name from Beau Lieu, the French for "beautiful place", and 16th century poet John Leland observed: "A man cannot wish to see a towne better."

That's what you call a recommendation.

The downside of such a fantastic setting, though, is that parking can be difficult. The cobbled old quayside in front of the pub is strictly a no-parking zone (You wouldn't want cars spoiling the view, would you?) and the public car park off nearby Load Street was full-to-bursting on the Saturday night we arrived. In the end we parked in the Dog Lane car park, a short walk along the river away, where there were still plenty of spaces. Go there in the daytime and you'll be hit with a charge.

The frost-encrusted bistro tables at the side of the river were unsurprisingly lying empty on this bracing winter's night, but inside it was heaving. At least the bar was. The pub is now divided into two very distinct areas, a traditional community pub on the left, and the rather genteel Angry Chef on the right.

While there was standing room only in the warm buzzing, bar, for somewhere called The Angry Chef the restaurant was remarkably tranquil. Busy, nearly all the tables were occupied, but there was a serene hush about the place, the sort of atmosphere you might expect to see in a French brasserie.

The one minor gripe was being sat next to a door on such a cold night. It was only opened a couple of times, but I would have preferred it to have been locked.

Two large slates served as place mats on the beautifully laid, candlelit tables, and I actually felt a little guilty unfurling the immaculately folded navy blue napkins.

The leatherette-bound wine list is quite the most impressive one I have seen yet.

And with so much effort, it seemed almost churlish to go for beer, but I really wanted to try Worcestershire Way, produced by Bewdley Brewery around the corner in Lax Lane.

And if you like your ale light and fruity, I would heartily recommend this refreshing session beer. Hereford Pale Ale, another favourite of mine, was also on tap.

The menu was presented in a similarly stylish manner. There is plenty of variety.

A house speciality is the grilled lobster, fresh out of the tank next to the counter, but I chose the steak . . . only joking.

For the benefit of anybody who read last week's column, reader Matt Till reckons I eat too many steaks, and thinks I should try something different.

Eager to please, I tried the roasted rump of Worcestershire lamb, ratatouille, with roasted shallots and potato rosti. Try saying that after a few pints of Worcestershire Way. As if to rub it in, my companion announced she would be having the steak, a chargrilled ribeye, one of the chef's recommendations.

The menu tells customers to allow 40 minutes for main courses, but in fact it came within half of that time, and we were given generous helpings of bread and an olive oil and balsamic vinegar dip to tuck into in the mean time.

The food was excellent. At £16.95 for each of our mains, you might say so it should be, but it is amazing how many places serve very average food for that sort of price.

Not so here. The restaurant has been awarded an AA rosette for good food.

My dish was elegantly presented, with the ratatouille sandwiched between the potato and the lamb, served in a thyme-scented jus. The meat was excellent, soft and tender, and delightfully consistent. It is normally served pink, but I asked if it could be cooked a little more, and the Angry Chef obliged.

I can also tell you that the steak was very good too. I hope you don't mind, Mr Till, but I did sample just one bite to see what it was like. Purely in the name of research, you understand. It came with lovely thick, hand-cut chips.

For afters we both went for the toffee and hazelnut cheesecake, which was gorgeous, if a little pricey at £5.95. It was served with a dollop of Chantilly whipped cream.

The total bill was £58.65. While this is perhaps towards the high end of what you might expect to pay in a pub restaurant, I still feel it represents good value.

From the stunning location through the excellent food, the service with a smile, to the beautiful beer, it offer everything you can want from a meal out. And if you are watching the pennies, there is a set menu offering two courses for £12.95 from Monday to Thursday.

ADDRESS

The Angry Chef restaurant, The Mug House, 12 Severnside North, Bewdley DY12 2EE

Tel: 01299 402543

Web: www.mughousebewdley.co.uk

MENU SAMPLE

STARTERS

Soup of the day £3.95

Chicken and pork pate with caramelised red onion purée and melba toast £4.95

Goat's cheese baked in crispy filo pastry served with a spicy tomato chutney £5.25

MAINS

Monkfish wrapped in smoked salmon, chargrilled king prawns, saffron cream sauce with dauphinoise potatoes £16.95

Supreme of chicken, medley of seasonal mushrooms, olive oil crushed potatoes and a Tarragon cream sauce £14.50

Roast butternut squash and sage risotto with Parmesan shavings £12.95

DESSERTS

Apple, raisin and cinnamon crumble with crème Anglaise £5.95

Hot chocolate and griottine cherry clafoutis with pistachio ice cream £5.95

Selection of British cheeses with biscuits and chutneys £6.75