Bellagio, West Bromwich

Our undercover meal reviewer

discovers delightful cusine which transports the diner from the Black Country to the Mediterranean.

"I've stayed at the Bellagio in Las Vegas," said my dining companion when I explained where we would be eating.

"West Bromwich and Las Vegas, they're pretty much the same," I explained, not especially convincingly.

But while the Black Country town might lack the eye-popping neon brilliance of America's casino capital, I was fascinated by the eerie blue glow emanating from the neighbouring tower blocks. More Abu Dhabi than 'ow bin you, I reckon.

Bellagio is a relative newcomer on the Black Country dining scene. This restaurant and hotel opened in March last year, and a second branch opened in Dudley a few months back. Both come highly recommended; in April James Clothier dropped me a line telling me the West Bromwich restaurant was very good; more recently Brian Chappell was full of praise for the Dudley Bellagio, at Castlegate.

One thing it is hard not to be impressed by is how the owners have transformed the previously rundown Five Ways pub in West Bromwich, which was closed down by the police four years ago.

It now looks immaculate from the outside, with spotless cream paint, and classy leaded windows.

There is a good level car park, although it was nearly full when we arrived, with one of the spaces curiously occupied by a tractor. The NFU Christmas bash, perhaps?

If it looks smart on the outside, it is even better on the inside. If you like things bright and shiny, you will love it. Huge gleaming mirrors, plush curtains and polished granite tables, coupled with exotic pot plants, bright cream walls and vibrant red seating, give the place a real buzz.

We waited a short while in the smart bar area, watching footage of the kitchen staff being beamed through on a large-screen television, before being taken to our spot in the corner of the restaurant.

Bellagio had truly got into the swing of Christmas, playing just about every festive record you can imagine, with the surprising exception of Slade's Merry Xmas Everybody. Why, they were even playing Abba's melancholy Happy New Year - talk about planning ahead.

It is a large place, but tables were at a premium. There was rather diverse group in the middle of the room spanning several generations, including a young gentleman in a rather fetching trilby.

There is certainly plenty of variety on the wine list, starting with £4.20-a-glass house wines right the way up to £250 bottles of Cristal champagne. I opted for a nice cool glass of Prosecco Doc, dubbed the Italian champagne by wine critics, and I suggest you do the same too. My companion went for a Bellini, "so I can pretend I'm in Venice." Venice, Las Vegas, you have to have an imagination, I guess.

The menu is huge and varied, and it is not too exotic for those with conservative tastes. It is big on steaks, chicken, fish and pasta, with nine different pizzas also on offer.

It's not cheap, though. If you want a starter, they range from £6.10 to £7.99, and the main courses rise up to £25.99 if you go for the lobster - with any side dishes costing extra.

Regular readers will know I am partial to a good steak, so with nine different variations on offer, I was like the proverbial child in the sweet shop. If you want to play it safe there are grilled 9oz fillets and sirloins with the chef's speciality garlic butter, but I went for my favourite filetto al pepe verde, a fillet cooked in green pepper, cream and brandy sauce.

The food took a while to come, about 40 minutes, but it was definitely worth it. It was gorgeous.

I have said this before, there is something about there is something very well about the way the Italians do steak. The menu did not explain how it had been cooked, but I imagine it had probably been pan-fried in olive oil, the classic Mediterranean style. It was thick, moist and tender, and the creamy sauce, with its coarsely choppped peppercorns, was beautiful, and the white wine vinegar made my side order of chips that little bit special.

My dining partner went for the pizza margherita, also with chips, and said it was truly splendid.

To finish I had cheesecake, which was in the traditional Italian layered style, with a rich strawberry sauce. My companion went for profiteroles, which were covered in thick clotted cream, and she said they were excellent.

The service was generally excellent, with friendly staff who oozed charm – "wait one moment, I am going to find you a better table" – although they seemed curiously reluctant to take my money.

The bill came quickly when I asked for it, but paying it was another matter. After quite a wait, and several unsuccessful efforts to catch the eyes of various waiters, I decided on a more proactive approach, and walked up to the till.

But despite the bill being presented in an American Express wallet, I was politely told that Amex would not do nicely, so I had to pay on my debit card instead.

And how much was the bill? The total came to £65.29, which included two courses each, two glasses of wine, a Bellini, an orange juice and a coffee.

It is certainly not a cheap experience, but I think it represents decent value if you fancy pushing the boat out on a special occasion.

It is a really lively place, brimming with character, and the food was superb.

It's not Las Vegas or Venice, but it is probably as close as you can expect to get in the Black Country.

ADDRESS

Bellagio, 50-60 Seagar Street, West Bromwich B71 4AB

Tel: 0121 500 2818

Web: www.thebellagio.co.uk

MENU SAMPLE

STARTERS

Pineapple and prawns in Marie Rose sauce £6.99

Asparagi parmigiana (asparagus with shaves of parmesan cheese) £6.99

Avocado diverso - avocado with crab meat with Marie Rose sauce, smoked trout with horseradish and sun blushed tomatoes £7.50

MAINS

Pan fried chicken breast in gorgonzola cheese sauce £12.99

Milanese veal in bread crumbs £13.99

Filleto al barolo - 9oz fillet steak pan fried with shallots, parma ham and crushed peppercorns in a rich barolo sauce £18.99

Grilled sea bass £17.99

Pizza pollo e rosmarino - tomato, cheese, chicken, mushroom and rosemary £8.45

DESSERTS

Tartufe flambi £5.99

Tiramisu £5.99

Sharing dessert platter £5.99