Express & Star

The White House, Walsall

It is said Chris Christie has dropped out of the race for the White House because he is too fat, writes our undercover meal reviewer The Insider.

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It is said Chris Christie has dropped out of the race for the White House because he is too fat,

writes our undercover meal reviewer The Insider

.

Herman Cain's campaign – try saying that after a few pints of Banks's – has hit the skids over claims he is too randy. And old Barry Obama, already struggling in the polls, is being challenged for the Democratic nomination by a bloke who is called Randy.

Confused? You're not the only one. What is it about Americans and voting?

When we have an election here, we've usually had enough after a few weeks' campaigning. We turn out to vote, get it over with, that that's the last we hear for the next four years.

Yet across the pond they seem to spend half their lives voting over one thing or another.

It's not as if getting in to the White House is that difficult. I didn't bother with caucuses and primaries when I went up there on a Friday night, we just pulled up in the car park and went in. There were plenty of tables.

Not 1,600, Pennsylvania Avenue, of course, but The White House in Bosty Lane, Walsall. And like its namesake in Washington, it does exactly what it says on the tin.

Probably dating back to the 1950s, it is quite distinctive for a postwar pub, with eyecatching whitewashed brickwork and a curved, horseshoe style frontage. Four large chimneys poke out of the deep dormer roof, and a garish sign in the car park informs customers that this is part of the Sizzling Pub Co chain, and promotes the special offers.

There is parking for around 50 cars, and its all pretty wheelchair friendly, with wide, well-planned corridors, although there are steps to one or two parts of the pub.

It was about half full when we visited on a Friday night, and one might have expected it to be a little busier – perhaps people are holding on for the Christmas party season to get into full swing.

It is quite a large, L-shaped pub, with a few raised areas offering an elevated view. It attracts a broad mix of people, from the young mother who was nursing her baby on the doorstep, to the group of middle-aged men enjoying a few pints.

But while there were plenty of free tables, the efforts at clearing them left something to be desired. It is never a welcoming site, sitting down at a table that is covered with the previous occupants' leftovers, but that is the state that many of the tables had been left in.

We did find a table in the corner of the raised area which had been both cleared and clean, separated from the six lively ladies below us by a display of modern sculptures.

I'm not sure what to make of the decor. Some of it looks superb, the large mirrors look to be real high quality, and the clever lighting display, featuring several bulbs behind a mirrored sculpture, provides a real talking point. But the tables and chairs look a little bit dated to me.

But there is no disputing the value, or the choice for that matter. The huge menu offers 13 "classic" mains, 19 of the speciality "sizzling" skillets, 10 "special" dishes, and nine burgers, and then there's the salads, pasta and baguettes. And the different portion sizes.

Cheapest main is a small smothered chicken at £3.19, while the most expensive choice, the king-size mixed grill, is still very reasonable at £9.49.

As a steak lover, I suppose one of the days I should try one of the trademark sizzling steaks, perhaps the 10oz ribeye, but on this occasion I wanted to try the sausage and mash, while my companion went for smothered chicken.

My delight at seeing a whole line of pumps for different real ales was shortlived when I noticed that most of the pump clips had been turned back to front. Still, the Banks's mild was on, which is fine by me, and my companion decided to try the Guinness.

The food took between 30 and 40 minutes to arrive, a little surprising considering the place was half empty.

It wasn't bad, but nothing to get too excited about either. The Cumberland sausages were tasty, big, plump juicy numbers with lots of flavour, and the mash – I had asked for plain rather than cheddar – was perfectly palatable. It came served in a thick onion gravy, and it was certainly a filling meal.

The regular chicken breast smothered in bacon and barbecue sauce was even more generous, and many people will find the small portion size quite sufficient.

One can only assume that the "Whale of a fish" haddock fillet is just that.

But when it comes to generosity of portion size, it was nothing compared to the dessert.

Mega Supercurlycrunchielistic-Choccaberry is a stupid name. So stupid that there was no way I was going to the bar to ask for that, so I simply said I wanted the sundae, and the barman knew exactly where I was coming from. He did explain that the kitchen was out of raspberries, so I would have to have it without, which was not a problem.

According to the menu, it is "great for sharing". What it didn't say was that it was great for sharing between four. It was huge!

The picture I took on my phone really didn't do it justice, but let's just say it was far more than the two of us could get anywhere near to finishing.

Essentially it is a layer of warm chocolate fudge cake, covered in vanilla ice cream, pieces of milk chocolate, topped off with whipped cream filled with pieces of Cadbury's Crunchie, with two halves of a Curly Wurly sticking out of the top. Oh, and of course it usually comes with raspberries in sauce as well.

It was most enjoyable, and my weakness for all things sweet meant that I probably ate a lot more of it than was good to me – although there was still plenty left behind.

And I could barely believe my eyes when I saw the bill. The total cost of the two hearty main courses, the giant dessert, a pint-and-a-half of beer and two coffees, was just £16.83.

I had been anticipating the bill for that lot to be somewhere around the £20 mark, but closer examination revealed that there was a buy-one-get-one-free offer on the mains I was completely unaware of. And even when I looked at the menu again afterwards I could still find no mention of it.

And really that's the story. The food isn't remarkable, but when it comes to value for money it is very hard to beat.

It's not what you would call presidential fare. But when it comes to value for money, it sure gets my vote.

ADDRESS

The White House, Bosty Lane, Walsall WS9 0QE

Tel: 01922 457640

MENU SAMPLE

STARTERS

Breaded mushrooms £2.49

Tomato and basil soup £2.49

Red peppers stuffed with cream cheese £2.99

MAINS

Steak and ale pie with peas, chips and gravy £4.79

Salmon fishcake with chips and peas £4.99

Quorn and three-bean chilli £4.69

All-American combo – half rack of barbecue glazed pork ribs, southern fried chicken fillets, corn on the cob and onion rings with chips and half a tomato £9.49

8oz top rump steak with chips, onions and half a tomato £5.29

DESSERTS

Treacle pudding £2.79

Millionaire's shortbread cake - shortbread base topped with layers of dairy caramel flavoured ice cream, toffee sauce and chocolate ice cream £2.99

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