The Glassworks, Amblecote

There are plenty of food choices to be had but a lack of beer options in this chain pub,

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Standing on Camp Hill today, it is hard to envisage how this area must have looked 250 years ago.

There is a plate-glass fronted car showroom on one side of the road. A fast-fit tyre centre on the other. Light-brick 1970s suburban houses with block-paved drives. Pretty much like any other main road into town, then.

It is hard to believe that a quarter of a millennium ago this was arguably the glassmaking capital of the world. Giant glass cones sprang up like mushrooms, the air was black with the smoke from the kilns.

Today, the Red House glass cone, half a mile up the road in Wordsley, is the only real surviving landmark from this area's glittering past. About half a mile in the other direction, the Dial Glassworks is still going strong, although it's a much more low-key affair. There is a statue of glassblower at the bottom of the hill. And halfway up, there is a pub called The Glassworks.

So where better to celebrate the Glassboys' plum FA Cup tie against Plymouth Argyle?

To the uninitiated, the Glassboys are Stourbridge FC, who play at the War Memorial Ground in Amblecote High Street, a brisk 15-minute walk away. Last weekend they held Plymouth Argyle to a 3-3 draw at Home Park in the First Round of the FA Cup – a remarkable feat for a side of part-timers. Their reward will be to invite Argyle back to the War Memorial for a rematch on Tuesday next week, and I for one can't wait.

Amblecote expects!

Anyway enough about the Glassboys, what about the Glassworks?

If the name leads you to believe it is an old, converted glassmaking centre, well it's not. It's a modern, Brewers Fayre, built 14 years ago. Neatly landscaped gardens do their best to shield the pub from the traffic thundering along the busy A491, once one of the worst traffic bottlenecks in the Black Country.

There is a well-laid out level car park at the back, but it's quite a trek to the entrance, which probably explains why there were empty spaces in the car park, while the narrow service road at the side was jam packed with parked vehicles.

It is a spacious, airy building, and the decor is bright and modern, a little more sophisticated than I had been expecting from a chain pub. We were sat in a quiet corner – well more of an alcove, really – at the back of the pub. I liked the colourful, stripey fabric bench seat, and the silver leaf-patterned wallpaper, while the signal red wall panels also looked good - or at least they would have done had it not been for an unsightly mark right next to where we were sat.

It is quite a lively place, and seems popular mainly with the younger set, although there was a smattering of older faces as well.

I was quite impressed that it offered full waiter service, but there was sometimes a bit of a wait for somebody to come to the table.

A recent addition to The Glassworks is the buffet bar near to the entrance, which offers different all-you-can eat dining experiences on different evenings. On Mondays it is Chinese food, on Thursdays it is curry, or on Fridays – the night of our visit – it is chip shop food. These buffets cost £5.99 each, so they certainly represent good value for money. On Sundays there is a carvery from midday onwards, offering two course for £9 or three for £11.

In addition, there is a separate menu offering a choice of nine starters, 29 main courses and a dozen desserts. There is plenty of variety, with grills, fish and pub classics ranging from red pepper pasta to sausage, egg and chips, although rump was the only steak on offer, and vegetarians will have to content themselves with soup if they want a starter.

Beer drinkers have a choice of four lagers, Tetley's or Guinness, none of which I am particularly fond, and it begs the question as to why there is so much choice of lager, but only one bitter. I suppose someone will have done the sums and taken the view that most customers are lager drinkers, but it meant it would be wine for me.

Fortunately, the choice of wines was much better, and I would recommend the excellent Brancott Sauvignon Blanc. Not as good as my favourite Nobilo, but like most wines from the Marlbrough region of New Zealand, it has an excellent dry, fruity flavour.

Food-wise, I went for the lamb shank, which came in good time. Having been cooked for four hours, it was pleasantly soft and tender throughout, although a little on the bony side. There was a mountain of fresh vegetables, although perhaps not as much mash as I would have liked, but the redcurrant and mint gravy was superb, and really brought out the best of the flavours.

My companion chose the beef stew and cobbler, and despite a little initial scepticism, was pleasantly surprised. The beef had also been slow cooked, this time in a red wine sauce, and like my gravy, it was full of flavour. It was served with a cheese cobbler, basically a pie without a base, as well as mash and peas.

To finish, I had a chocolate fudge cake, a pleasant and generous portion for just £2.99, while my companion went for the cheesecake with blackberry compote.

The total bill was £41.82, about par for the course when you include the bottle of good wine. As a modern chain pub, you cannot expect it to be brimming with character, but it is comfortably and attractively furnished, all the staff were friendly and helpful, and the food was good.

A glass act? A smashing experience? I'll leave you to come up with the corny puns.

But for a pleasant and efficient dining experience, with the option of bargain buffets, it certainly hits the target.

Let's hope the Glassboys do on Tuesday.

ADDRESS

The Glassworks, Camp Hill, Amblecote, near Stourbridge DY8 4AD

Tel: 01384 482699

MENU SAMPLE

STARTERS

Seasonal soup of the day (vegetarian) £1.99

Chicken goujons £3.75

Breaded Camembert bites £3.99

MAINS

10oz rump steak £10.99

Barbecue ribs £9.99

Hand battered fish and chips £6.75

Goan vegetable curry £6.99

Bef and ale pie £6.99

DESSERTS

Ice cream £1.99

Profiteroles £3.65

Rhubarb crumble £2.99